• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.39-56
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• 2004

At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.