• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.6
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• pp.9-16
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• 2010

The formative exaggeration phenomenon, which makes the plastic space, escaping from the form peculiar to the human body, is being developed into the more diversified and abstract structure. This study analyzed the form and shape of costumes with objective attitude through the use of an oppositional concept method, which Delong presented from the formative viewpoint. Delong's theory, which was presented in this study, can be said to be one index that analyzed the form and shape of costumes. The costumes of the Renaissance Era, in which formative exaggeration is remarkable, are determinate in that they are closed and static, and can be classified into part, planer separation, and flat. The costumes of the Baroque and Rococo Eras are divided into similar formative perspectives, and can be said to be open, whole, and integrated due to indeterminate and diverse decorations. Entering modern times, the formative-exaggeration phenomenon in costumes of the Romantic Era are characterized by closed, part, and planer separation similar to costumes of the Renaissance Era. However, in the aspect of sleeve design and decoration, the characteristics of determinate and indeterminate were considered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1140-1151
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• 2009

This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.151-171
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

The purposes of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design by focusing on the period from 2000 to 2010 and to find out the development direction of the next makeup design. This study considered formative theory to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design of $Marian$ $L.$ $Davis$ and $Marilyn$ $R.$ $Delong's$ theory, and analyzed the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design in an aspect of line and form, color and material, The results are as follows: First, the shapes of the artistic eye-makeup such as tear drops, and rectangular paisleys were similar with the form of clothes such as the hourglass, cylinders and mix-types. Second, monotonic color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination that induced complex contrast coordination were apparent as well. Third, the objects of the artistic eye-makeup such as glitter papers, spangles and beads had similar features as the material of clothes such as silk and spangle, and contrast was partially used like colors. The results suggest that artistic eye-makeup and clothes have an organic relationship, and artistic eye-makeup is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.110-124
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• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.195-219
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• 2011

The purpose of the study is to analyze Hollywood actresses' makeup in formative characteristics and see the transition of the change for the usage as the fundamental materials to develop the future makeup field academy with the focus focused from 1920s to 2000s when the cosmetic industry began in earnest. The content of the study is to see the transition of the change by analyzing makeup of each era in formative aspect after seeing the transition of the makeup change in the social background by classifying by 10 years from 1920s to 2000s with related literature as the center in the theoretical background. The method of the study is to analyze makeup in formative aspect with total 180 pieces of pictures selected by two experts among their photos by selecting four actresses by each era and analyze Hollywood actresses' advertisement pictures which can be called as beauty icons at that time. Analysis frame to analyze the formativeness established new classification frame based on theories of Marian L. Davis, Marilyn Revell Delong, and Kang to analyze line, shape, texture, and decoration, and researcher's analysis frame was prepared based Munsell's color circle, tone analysis of P.C.C.S color system, and Kang's makeup color name to analyze colors. The result of the study is like below. Generally 20s and 30s highlighted line of eyebrows, 40s naturalness, 50s and 60s highlighted eye makeup, and from 70s makeup was focused on health, in 80s colorful makeup was boom, and 90s and 2000s has shown characteristics focused on texture of face.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.34-56
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• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.181-194
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• 1991

Vascular plants, the structure and interrelationship of the forst vegetation in pyonsan peninsula national park were inverstigated by phytosociological, continuum analysis and ordination methods. The flora was composed of 119 families,411 genera, 609 species, 79 varieties, 10 forma or 698 taxa. Some characteristics of the plants have been represented such as ch-$D_1$-$R_5$ type in biological one, erect form in growth on. It is noticeable that lycoris aurea, carpinus tschonoskii var. eximia, corylus hallaisanensis and abeliophyllum distichun among the investigated plants delong to endemic and/or rare species. The forest vegetation was classified into seven communities: quercus variabilis, pinus densiflora, quercus serrat, platycarya, carpinus tschonoskii, quercus dentata, zelkova serrata community. and quercus variabilis, pinus densiflora and pinus rigida, were the commonest species among distributed species. In addition interrelationship between diversity and dominant indrx of quercus variabilis community was little different each other and that of accordance altitude also was not much distinguishable. Platycarya strobilacea, pinus densiflora and quercus variabilas community were distinguished different groups by polar ordination.