• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.174-175
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.179-191
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• 1998

On this thesis, the focus is that studying costumes which have been affected by deconstructionism that is based on chaos and fractal the-ory. Chaos and fractal theory is accepted as a new paradigm for open world which is changing very vast and fast. And this theory is needed for artists and designers who should have spacetime conciousness and open mind and attitude towark open world. In the results, various costume typess of deconstructionism have been shown by fashion designers and artists' works. Thoes are as follows; 1. normal relationship of costume changes to abnormal relationship 2. three-dimentional structure of costume changes to two-dimentional structure. 3. open to materials and techniques. 4. separated costume parts reconstruct as ambiguous whole on function. 5. body absence and accessorizing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.185-196
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• 1999

문학, 건축 순수미술, 영화 산업디자인 등 다양한 분야에서 영향을 마치고 있는 해체주의(Deconstruction)는 디자인 분야에도 다양한 양상으로 나타나고 있고 그 보여지는 모습도 매우 광범위하며 표현에 있어서도 많은 잠재성을 가지고 있다. 해체주의 디자인은 포스트 모던한 상황과 다원화된 후기 산업사회, 데리다(J. Derrida)의 해체 이론과의 관계성을 통해 접근하고 있다. 특히 기호와 텍스트로 커뮤니케이션 하는 타이포그래피와 시각 디자인 분야는 해체 철학의 영향을 받을 수밖에 없다. 본 연구는 이러한 철학적 영향을 받고 있는 해체 타이포그래피 스타일의 변화를 분석하고 그 특성을 도출함으로써 해체 철학이 타이포그래피에 실제적으로 어떻게 적용되고 있는지 고찰하고자 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.704-716
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• 2008

This study aims to explore the creation of fashion design that embraces the diversity of human culture by examining oriental images that appear in the modern fashion with a focus on new paradigms that significantly affect human life as the latest trends, and by reflecting the trends of the times. The results of this study are as follows: First, this study examined that with regard to paradigm, a theoretical frame to view universe, the dichotomous, determinist, mechanism, linear paradigm collapsed to convert to undetermined, exoteric, pluralistic, indeterministic, organic, and holistic paradigm. The new paradigm is identified to have emerged before and after 1950s, and through the new paradigm, the characteristics of postmodernism such as historicality, popularity, locality, folkways and the characteristics of deconstructionism, internally mutual text, post phenomenon, undeterminability and externally exposure, destruction, poverty, decomposition and analysis, were identified. Second, the Orient is defined as the generic term referring to the entire Asian areas east of Turkey. Through the developmental process of oriental images, it was converted from the Oriental image, which mysteriously and romantically represents oriental elements, into the ethnic image that represents long time oriental traditions and indigenous culture together with the characteristics of the new paradigm. Third, the artistic characteristics of the Oriental costumes presented by Korea, China and Japan are expressed in developmental types, T-type plane structure, layered style, asymmetrical adjustment and easy silhouette, and they show indigenous characteristics of each country, for example, Chinese styles in dragon pattern, red and yellow, Japanese styles in flower design and achromatic color. Fourth, the Oriental Image, combined with the postmodernism and deconstructionism through the new paradigm, has two: one Oriental image highlights traditional elements by creating new Oriental image such as natural image, folk image, hybrid image and deconstruction image; and another is undetermined and vague by combining or decomposing Oriental or Western elements. It is expected that fashion designs that reflect these contexts of the times will contribute to the strengthening of international competitiveness.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.257-266
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• 2002

현대사회는 고도로 단원화하고 광범위하게 조직된 사회구조로 되어가고 있다. 후기 산업사회인 현대의 문화적 측면은 포스트모더니즘으로 이러한 경향이 전 학문영역에 보여지고 있다. 따라서 포스트모더니즘은 20세기 후반을 지배하는 일종의 시대정신이 되고 있다. 포스트모더니즘은 모더니즘에 대한 반발로 제2차 세계대전이후 서구 세계에 나타나기 시작한 다양한 예술적, 지적, 사상적 경향을 막연히 지칭하는 표현이다. 포스트모던 사회인 현대는 탈분화와 탈조직화, 사회구조의 이완, 해체 등의 특징을 나타낸다. 포스트모더니즘의 발생배경, 특징 및 철학을 연구함으로 포스트모더니즘의 이론적 배경을 파악하였다. 그러한 포스트모더니즘의 영향이 산업디자인의 영역에서 어떠한 경향을 보이고 있는지 미니멀리즘, 레트로디자인, 키치적디자인, 해체주의디자인, 신소재사용디자인 및 사이버디자인에 관해 연구하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.188-202
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to analyze how future images are embodied in contemporary fashion design. To find out future images expressed in contemporary fashion design, this paper characterized the future society as information society, network society, pluralistic society, and global village. Cyber design and techno-style expressed through metal or lustrous material which is influenced by information symbolize future image. Also, minimalism which is characterized as simplicity and purity affects the contemporary fashion design. The network society which affets t the horizontal and functional social system diminishes the meaning of socio-economic status. Therefore, street fashion has diffused to high fashion, and the formal wear has tendency to be changed into casual wear. In addition, the meaning of status symbol in contemporary fashion design become decreased. The pluralistic society affects to search for one's own personality and identity. Also, contemporary fashion design is influenced by post-modernism and deconstructionism. In order words, genderless, ageles, seasonless, and infra fashion appeared. The global village emphasizes extension of universality in life style and search for world quality. so, ethnic fashions appear frequently in contemporary fashion design. Also, the effects of Korean traditional costume to contemporary fashion design has increased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.673-684
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the \"spirit of the times\" and the characteristics of each eras clothing in Renaissance and Post-modern Period. Theoretical studies about the \"spirit of times\" and the characteristics of clothing about each time were preceded. The results were as follows: Similarities of \"Spirit of times\" were 1) emphasis on humanity 2) anti-centralization 3) destruction of social status 4) deconstruction of christianity in Renaissance and modernism in Post-modern Period. Similarities of \"characteristics of clothing\" were 1) emphasis on erotic aspects of female body 2) emphasis of erotic aspects on clothing 3) tendency to revert to the old fashion 4) popularization of certain social groups fashion 5) tendency of deconstructionism in fashion 6) tendency of \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.f \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.ous style.