• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.441-451
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• 2020

This study examined the characteristics of the royal progress and regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage and then investigates King Gojong's costumes in "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire". To examine the regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage, there are unique costumes, 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' for the great memorial service for ancestors during the Korean Empire period. 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' are not provided in the code during the Joseon Dynasty period. Thus, it was not provided in the regulations, in the actual execution of the ritual, the king put on 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo,' so entering the Korean Empire period, it was legislated as 'Ikseon-gwanbok' in Daehan-yejeon. There is a scene in the "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire" in which the king pays a visit on Yeon, holding 'Gyu' in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo'. However, holding 'Gyu' on Yeon in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo' can be seen in King Gojong's royal procession to hold Jongmyo Chunhyangdaeje in the year of Gabo (1894). This study showed that there was a compromise for the ritual despite not being regulated by law.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.