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A Study on the Reflective Property of Trends in Fashion Shows - Focused on Three Designing Factor of the Silhouette, the Detail, the Color and the Fashion Image - (패션쇼의 트렌드 반영성(反映性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 실루엣, 디테일, 색상(色相), 패션 이미지 등(等) 4가지 디자인 요소(要素)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Myung-Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.4
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    • pp.147-160
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    • 1999
  • This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

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Breeding of Asiatic Hybrid Lily 'Redsky' with Orange Red Color Petals for Cut Flowers (절화용 주황색 아시아틱나리 '레드스카이' 품종 육성)

  • Suh, Jong-Taek;Yoo, Dong-Lim;Nam, Chun-Woo;Kim, Su-Jeong;Hong, Soo-Young;Ryu, Seung-Yeol
    • Horticultural Science & Technology
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.329-333
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    • 2012
  • A new Asiatic hybrid lily 'Redsky' cultivar was selected from a cross between 'Vivaldi' cultivar with pale pink color flower as mother plant and 'Prato' with orange colored flower in 2000 year. The selected bulb line was propagated and cultivated for line nomenclature as 'Gonong-F-na-10'. The survey of the growth and flower characteristics of 'Gonong-F-na-10' were conducted from 2005 to 2007 on summer cropping system under structure in Highland Agriculture Research Center, NICS, RDA. After all 'Gonong-F-na-10' was named as 'Redsky'. The flowers of the 'Redsky' cultivar had not soft hair and fragrance, and had orange red (O-R N30D) colored petals with dark brown spots in center of flower. The stem color was dark pink and brown caused by anthocyanin pigment, the stigma and pollen colors were brown. Flowering direction was upward. The flowering date was July 7 so early flowering. The plant height was 97.2 cm so long, number of flowers was 4.9 ea, and length of flower bud was 9.3 cm. The bulb weight was about 34.8 g and its bulb size was about 14.8 cm in circumference. 'Redsky' cultivar was registered as a new variety with No. 3119 in Korea Seed and Variety Service on June of 2010.

Fabrication of a sterling silver ring with folding process (폴딩 기법을 이용한 스털링실버 링 제조 공정)

  • Kim, Ik gyu;Kim, Kwangbae;Kim, Eun-Seok;Song, Ohsung
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.20 no.9
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    • pp.382-389
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    • 2019
  • A novel folding process is proposed using a repeated cold-die forging and annealing to form a sterling silver ring. Sterling silver plate was cut into a doughnut shape, and lattices with 0.43-mm line-width were imprinted on it. The sample was folded by forging using dies with slopes of $45^{\circ}$, $60^{\circ}$, and $75^{\circ}$ and annealing. For comparison, samples were also fabricated without annealing. Strain was identified by measuring the length of lattices. Vernier calipers, a Vickers hardness tester, an optical microscope, and a UV-VIS colorimeter were used to determine the size, hardness, microstructure, and body color. Without annealing, cracks occurred. However, successful deformation was possible when annealing was used. The results of macro strain measurements show that the outer diameter and width decreased, while the inner diameter and thickness increased after the final process. The maximum strain was increased 0.128 toward the parallel direction. The Vickers hardness decreased after annealing and increased after the folding process. The microstructure results showed that the grain size increased after annealing but decreased after folding. The color difference based on the Lab index was under 10 for all processes. Eventually, a doughnut-shaped silver plate was successfully deformed into a ring shape by the folding process.

Beak Trimming Methods - Review -

  • Glatz, P.C.
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • v.13 no.11
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    • pp.1619-1637
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    • 2000
  • A review was undertaken to obtain information on the range of beak-trimming methods available or under development. Beak-trimming of commercial layer replacement pullets is a common yet critical management tool that can affect the performance for the life of the flock. The most obvious advantage of beak-trimming is a reduction in cannibalism although the extent of the reduction in cannibalism depends on the strain, season, and type of housing, flock health and other factors. Beak-trimming also improves feed conversion by reducing food wastage. A further advantage of beak-trimming is a reduction in the chronic stress associated with dominance interactions in the flock. Beak-trimming of birds at 7-10 days is favoured by Industry but research over last 10 years has shown that beak-trimming at day-old causes the least stress on birds and efforts are needed to encourage Industry to adopt the practice of beak-trimming birds at day-old. Proper beak-trimming can result in greatly improved layer performance but improper beak-trimming can ruin an other wise good flock of hens. Re-trimming is practiced in most flocks, although there are some flocks that only need one trimming. Given the continuing welfare scrutiny of using a hot blade to cut the beak, attempts have been made to develop more welfare friendly methods of beak-trimming. Despite the developments in design of hot blade beak-trimmers the process has remained largely unchanged. That is, a red-hot blade cuts and cauterises the beak. The variables in the process are blade temperature, cauterisation time, operator ability, severity of trimming, age of trimming, strain of bird and beak length. This method of beak-trimming is still overwhelmingly favoured in Industry and there appears to be no other alternative procedures that are more effective. Sharp secateurs have been used trim the upper beak of both layers and turkeys. Bleeding from the upper mandible ceases shortly after the operation, and despite the regrowth of the beak a reduction of cannibalism has been reported. Very few differences have been noted between behaviour and production of the hot blade and cold blade cut chickens. This method has not been used on a large scale in Industry. There are anecdotal reports of cannibalism outbreaks in birds with regrown beaks. A robotic beak-trimming machine was developed in France, which permitted simultaneous, automated beak-trimming and vaccination of day-old chicks of up to 4,500 chickens per hour. Use of the machine was not successful because if the chicks were not loaded correctly they could drop off the line, receive excessive beak-trimming or very light trimming. Robotic beak-trimming was not effective if there was a variation in the weight or size of chickens. Capsaicin can cause degeneration of sensory nerves in mammals and decreases the rate of beak regrowth by its action on the sensory nerves. Capsaicin is a cheap, non-toxic substance that can be readily applied at the time of less severe beak-trimming. It suffers the disadvantage of causing an extreme burning sensation in operators who come in contact with the substance during its application to the bird. Methods of applying the substance to minimise the risk to operators of coming in contact with capsaicin need to be explored. A method was reported which cuts the beaks with a laser beam in day-old chickens. No details were provided on the type of laser used, or the severity of beak-trimming, but by 16 weeks the beaks of laser trimmed birds resembled the untrimmed beaks, but without the bill tip. Feather pecking and cannibalism during the laying period were highest among the laser trimmed hens. Currently laser machines are available that are transportable and research to investigate the effectiveness of beak-trimming using ablasive and coagulative lasers used in human medicine should be explored. Liquid nitrogen was used to declaw emu toes but was not effective. There was regrowth of the claws and the time and cost involved in the procedure limit the potential of using this process to beak-trim birds.

CONFOCAL LASER SCANNING MICROSCOPIC MORPHOLOGY OF DENTIN-RESIN INTERFACE AND ITS RELATIONSHIP WITH SHEAR BOND STRENGTH (상아질-레진 계면의 공초점 현미경적 형태 및 전단결합강도와의 관계)

  • Choi, Nak-Won;Cho, Byeong-Hoon;Son, Ho-Hyun
    • Restorative Dentistry and Endodontics
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.310-321
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    • 1999
  • In this in vitro study, confocal laser scanning microscopic morphology of dentin-resin interface and its relationship to shear bond strength were investigated after the exposed dentin surfaces were treated with 3 different kinds of dentin adhesive systems[three-step; Scotchbond Multi-Purpose Plus(SMPP), self-priming bonding resin; Single Bond(SB), self-etching primer; Clearfil Liner Bond 2(LB2)]. 52 extracted human molar teeth without caries and/or restorations. The experimental teeth were randomly divided into three groups of seventeen teeth each. In five teeth of each group, class V cavities(depth: 1.5mm) with 900 cavosurface angles were prepared at the cementoenamel junction on buccal and lingual surfaces. Bonding resins of each dentin adhesive system were mixed with rhodamine B. Primer of SMPP was mixed with fluorescein. In group 1. the exposed dentin was conditioned with etchant, applied with above primer and bonding resin of SMPP. In group 2, with etchant and self-priming bonding agent of SB. In group 3, with self-etching primer and bonding agent of LB2. After treatment with dentin adhesive systems, composite resin were applied and photocured. The experimental teeth were cut longitudinally through the center line of restoration and grounded so that about $90{\mu}m$-thick wafers of buccolingually orientated dentin were obtained. And, $70{\sim}80{\mu}m$-thick wafers sectioned horizontally, thus presenting a dentinal tubules at 900 to the cut surface of a remaining tooth, were obtained. Primer of SMPP mixed with rhodamine B was applied to these wafers. Confocal laser scanning microscopic investigations of these wafers were done within of 24 hours after treatment. To measure shear bond strength, the remaining twelve teeth of each group were grounded horizontally below the dentinoenamel junction, so that no enamel remained. After applying dentin adhesive systems on the dentin surface, composite was applied in the shape of cylinder. The cylinder was 5mm in diameter, and 2mm in thickness. Shear bond strength was measured using Instron with a cross-head speed of 0.5mm/min. It was concluded as follows ; 1. Hybrid layer of SMPP(mean: $4.56{\mu}m$) was thicker than that of any other groups. This value was not statistically significant thicker than that of SB(mean: $3.41{\mu}m$, p>0.05), and significant thicker than that of LB2(mean: $1.56{\mu}m$, p<0.05). There was a statistical difference between SB and LB2(p<0.05). 2. Although there were variations in the length of resin tag even in a sample, and in a group, most samples in SMPP and SB showed resin tags extending above $20{\mu}m$. But samples in LB2 showed resin tags of $10{\mu}m$ at best. 3. Besides primer's infiltration into demineralized peritubular dentin and dentinal tubules, fluorophore of primer was detected in the lateral branches of dentinal tubules. 4. All groups demonstrated statistically significant differences from one another(p<0.05), with shear bond strengths given in descending order as follows: SMPP(18.3MPa), SB(16.0MPa) and LB2(12.4MPa). 5. LB2 having thinnest hybrid layer($1.56{\mu}m$) showed the lowest shear bond strength(12.4MPa).

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A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Yong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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Studies on the Anther Culture of Prunus mume S. et Z. and the Other Three Species (Prunus mume S. et Z. 외(外) 삼종(三種)의 약배양(葯培養)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Jai Saing
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 1976
  • When haploid plant would be appeared by the anther culture, the large quantity of young plant multiplied maternal inheritance and the same pure line rapidly in the short length of time, which will be effected to cut down much expences efforts and time for the production of seeds or seedlings. Therefore, the development of the technique for this would be much profited in the country industry. In the late of a few years studies were early attempted in this field, but up this time there were a few success of plants only and none of perennial plant. In this status of the country condition required earnestly for the development of the green industry, this researcher attempted to culture the anther of late uninucleate microspore or early binucleate microspore of the Prunus mume and other three psecies, economic trees estimated specially economic, on the place of Modified Murashige and Skoog's medium supliment with Kinetine, 2.4-D, and N.A.A for inducing haploid plants. The obtained results were as follows: 1. 2,000 anthers were cultured and there were shown that 2N callus in Prunus mume had 82 as 4.1%, 2N callus in Prunus tomentosa 15 as 0.8%, 2 N callus in Prunus salisina 75 as 4% 2. N callus had shown 40 as 2% from Prunus armeniaca var. ansu only, and the other trees showed all 2N callus. 3. Callus had appeared in every tree but 2N callus appeared was all filaments and there showed from only connective tissue N callus appeared was all from anther locule inside. 4. Then Prunus armeniaca var. ansu only was not callus of somatic anther tissue origin, but as there was callus origined from microspore which was changed in to swollen microspores or polynucleate microspores, it was certained to need haploid plant.

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