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A Study of the wig and the Boyo -Centering on China- (가계와 步搖에 관한 연구 -중국을 중심으로-)

  • 김용문
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.211-223
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    • 1992
  • The results of the researches in the wig and the Boyo are as follows. The wig is to be classified into Bu, Pyun, Chah, Cheh, and kwik, Bu is an ornamental hairpin used by the empress, and it is decorated with Boyo. Pyun is a wig made of braided hair. Chah is made of Bal which is put together by its lenath, and it was also called Picheh or Pisuck. It is made, one by one, of hair of the convicts and the low-class people. 초도 has a meaning of toupee, and it is used to look beautiful with its thick black hair. Kwik is a wig made of hair as if it is weaved out of thread, and it is rounded with a wire. In ancient times, it was also called chah, Pi, or Pi People wore different wigs according to their class and the use, in order of Bu, Pyun, and Chah. There are remains of the Han Dynasty. Boyo, just like the wig, was originally a custom of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the later Han Dynasty. It is also called Cho Song and has a different meaning from the Boyo attached to a crown before the Han Dynasty. It became much more beautiful in the Which in period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Tang Dynasty, which is due to the influence by the customs of the western Ho tribe. The name of hairstyling using wigs in each period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its properity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found. times, it was also called chah, Pr, or period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing, it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its prosperity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found.

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The Study of Clothing Imagery Expressed in Moliere`s PlayII-focused on Les precieuses Ridicules- (Moliere의 희극에 나타난 의상 Imagery에 관한 연구II-재치를 뽐내는 아가씨들을 중심으로-)

  • 이영숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.447-457
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    • 2001
  • Moliere completed classical French comedy by combining farce and commedia dell\`arte. Moliere believed that it was a plays obligation to give a lesson and entertainment. Moliere recreated commedia dell\`arte\`s typical acting patterns and characters in his work. He created with Lully comedie ballet that combined ballet and comedie for taste of Louis 14. Les precieuses ridicules critically displayed women at that time. Both contemporary high status women\`s custom and behavior were the targets of the author\`s synical criticism. There are three notable clothing imageries are shown in this work. First, Moliere used a variety of items in order to show emptiness of noble at that time. Items are ribbon and loop decorated rhingrave, feather decorated hat, perfumed wig and glove, lace covered canon and flower decorated shoes. Second, the author showed people\`s stutus through their clothes. Last, the author used clothing used clothing as a metaphor for hypocrisy. Thus when he said “take off the clothes” he meant take off hypocrisy and return truth.

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