• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.31-50
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• 2015

This study analyzes traditional form and figurative characteristics of Ottchil Painting based on objective relics about long lasted Ottchil Painting and related literature as our country's national culture. Study range is among Lolang (Nangnang), Three Kingdom Dynastys (Koguryo, Baekje and Shilla), Unified Shilla Dynasty, Koryo Dynasty, Joseon Dynasty, Modern times and Contemporary. The method of study is after theoretical consideration of Ottchil Painting through related literature, adduced figurative characteristics of related Ottchil Painting by time period with case-study methods such as excavated relics and historical basis. Ottchil Painting consists of color, which is derived from Ottchil mixed with a mineral pigment of powder and various patterns and drawings using different techniques. The methods of Ottchil Painting are Myohoi, Yanggam, Gakhoik, Younma, Balsoa and Toiso. The techniques of Ottchil Painting of our country is established by splendid and unique for about 1,600 years revolved around Myochilchaehoi technique and Myoyuchaehoi technique started at Unified Shill a Daynasty and through Koryo, Joseon Dynasty, Modern times and Contemporary. Also, such this Ottchil Painting form of red in the inside and black in the outside, which is wood based, the rest is bamboo sheath and framework from Geonchil based and the figurative characteristics presented the traditional Patterns of Lotus, Phoenix, arabesque, bird, animal, cloud, marble and letter with red Ottchil, yellow Ottchil, or five colors Ottchil.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.532-548
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• 2019

This study examines Geumgwan Gaya's headgear, belt, and footwear. The relics excavated from tombs were examined first, then earthenware and clay figurines, followed by the visual data of related neighboring countries. The results are as follows. The headgear of Geumgwan Gaya, identified in the relics, is daegwan (帶輪式立飾冠) and lip (笠). Daegwan is a diadem with branch-shaped ornaments. It has an organic cap with fabric and leather as well as ties the strings to both ends of the diadem. Lip can be seen in the mounted figure of the earthenware. In neighboring countries, the top of lip is round or straight, but Geumgwan Gaya's lip is pointed and curved slightly backward. In addition, from neighboring countries' data, it is considered that the conical hat and gun (巾) are worn in Geumgwan Gaya. The belt is made of cloth or leather. Geumgwan Gaya also uses a belt with an animal-shaped hook and Jin style belt. Jin style belt shows the association with three-Yan culture of the Seonbi people in patterns and forms. Footwear of Geumgwan Gaya is li (履) and boots. Li included leather shoes, lacquer shoes, straw shoes and wooden shoes. In addition, there are leather boots decorated with round ornaments.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제25권
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• pp.35-54
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• 2011

Magnum Korea, a 2008 exhibit at the Hangaram Art Museum in the Seoul Arts Center, introduced representative images of Korea to commemorate the 60th year of the founding of the nation. Twenty photographers of various backgrounds participated in Magnum Korea. This study focuses on one of the exhibited photographers, the French photographer Bruno Barbey. Born in Morocco, Barbey occupies a special position in today's modern photography not to mention in the Magnum group of traditional medium of photography. His photographic world is affiliated with the humanism of Robert Diosneau, particularly as his photographic medium is based on communication and code. Among the photographs in the Magnum Korea collection, Barbey's photographs can be organized into six different subjects: industrial structures in nature, industrial buildings, traditional relics of culture, terminals, markets and restaurants, and daily life. This paper takes special interest in Barbey's unique perspective on Korea's traditional cultural assets focusing on 'Seoul, Jogyesa'. What is the uniqueness of our culture as contained in Barbey's works? In other words, how did he capture the special characteristics of our culture that are often overlooked or ignored because they are so familiar to us? A semiotic approach is used to discover what common but special situations and realities of Korea attracted this photographer and how he managed to capture them in his photographs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.116-131
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• 2010

As our world is becoming more and more globalized, nations tend to turn their interests towards their unique legacy and traditional culture. This research is intended to re-illuminate the Korean beauty through the Lotus Pattern, a traditional factor, from the Chosun Dynasty, and at the same time, analyze how its peculiar representation and figural elements can be reflected in modern fashion designs. The results will be an essential factor in creating exclusive and original designs. Research method was theoretical research from documents and to refer to positive data on preserved relics, and research contents consists of analysis on the use of lotus patterns in artworks that were exhibited during 2000 to 2008 by Korean and foreign artists. Results showed that lotus patterns that were used during the Chosun Dynasty are categorized by shape, composition form, and structural form. Applying these results, a total of 8 works were designed and created.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.796-811
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• 2010

Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.93-111
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• 2019

This paper provides a comprehensive description of previous studies of making and developing kimchi in terms of the origins of kimchi and the changes in the history of kimchi, along with newly discovered data, including the collection of works in Joseon Dynasty as well as old cookbooks discovered after the year 2000, and latest research in related disciplines, e.g., ancient history studies, archeology, and linguistics. Because new ruins and relics, such as the Liao-ho Civilization in the Northeast Asia continent, which was closely related to Dongyi tribes, have been discovered and studied, it is important to determine how to reflect the outcome of archeological studies on the origin of preserved vegetables. In addition, to describe the background and changes in the independent formation of making Korean kimchi chronologically, they were divided into the following: development from jjanji to singunji; formation of the basis for seokbakji dressed with fermented fish sauce; settlement of seokbakji culture for dressing seokbakji with fermented fish sauce and spices, including chili varieties when they were introduced; and establishment of the method for making whole cabbage kimchi, which is currently typical kimchi made by adding the seokbakji as the stuffing of the cabbage kimchi, to examine the time and specific details of the change.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.64-81
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• 2019

제주도는 지정학적 위치상 동아시아 해로의 중요한 중간 기착지였기 때문에 과거로부터 주변국의 외침을 빈번하게 받아왔다. 특히 쓰시마에 거점을 둔 왜구들이 중국을 오가는 길목에 위치하고 있어 제주를 정복하기 위한 왜구의 침략이 고려 말 이후 계속되었음은 주지의 사실이다. 따라서 제주도 곳곳에는 외침에 대비한 방어시설들이 설치되었고, 특히 소수의 인원으로도 효율적으로 방어할 수 있는 성곽이 곳곳에 축조되었다. 이는 내륙과 떨어져 있어 유사시 신속한 지원을 받는 것이 거의 불가능한 관계로 스스로를 방어하기 위한 방책이었다. 성곽은 해당 지역의 정치적 문화적 경제적 중심지였던 만큼 그 지역의 역사와 지리적 특성을 연구하는 데 있어 귀중한 자료가 된다. 이런 이유로 성곽에 대한 연구는 일찍이 시작되었다. 그러나 제주도의 성곽에 대한 연구는 상당히 늦은 편이다. 다른 지역의 성곽 조사는 일제강점기부터 시작되었으나 제주도의 경우는 1970년대 들어서야 조사되기 시작했다. 이는 제주도 성곽의 중요성을 빨리 인식하지 못했고 성곽을 연구하는 전공자가 제주지역에 없었던 것이 원인일 것이다. 제주도에 대한 고고학조사가 본격화되면서 성곽에 대한 연구도 점차 진전되었으나 아직도 그 수준은 초보 단계를 벗어나지 못하고 있다. 이 글에서는 그동안 제주도 성곽 유적에 대한 연구 현황과 보존 정비 현황을 시대별로 구분하여 살펴보았다. 그 결과 고려시대 성곽 유적 2개소와 조선시대 성곽 유적 13개소의 성곽 유적 현황과 연구 현황을 분석하여 제시할 수 있었다. 성곽 유적의 보존 정비 현황에서는 잔존하는 성벽과 부속시설 현황을 제시하였고 지금까지 이루어진 정비 내용을 간략하게 살펴보았다. 그리고 성곽 유적의 정비 과정에서 발생하는 문제점을 언급하여 향후 복원 정비에 참고할 수 있는 개선방안을 간단하게 제시하였다.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.159-172
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• 2007

For the study on the Latin American culture reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of Latin American culture shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W (110 pieces) and some African designers' collections (157 pieces) have been analyzed and compared in three categories - forms, patterns and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the traditional elements of Indio culture are utilized in both the four major collections (76.8%) and the Latin American designers' collection (77.1%). Quechquemitl, the traditional Indio clothes are utilized in various forms in the four major collections, while the Latin American designers adopt various forms of traditional clothes, such as quechquemitl, camisa and pollera. Second, in the textile design, the patterns from Indio's traditional textile design are utilized in both the four major collections (68.7%) and the Latin American designers's collections (5.6%). The remarkable difference between the Latin American designers and the western designers is that the former like to mix the simple and primitive Indio culture with the colorful Iberian culture, and to utilize various patterns of feather, which is an important symbol in the traditional culture, expressing tradition in the modern touch. On the other hand, the western designers change the primitive and handcraft feel of Indio patterns into colorful ones, or mix the colorful Spanish-style flower patterns with primitive and passionate feel. Third, simple and handcraft feel of Indio accessories are utilized in modern fashion in both the four major collections and the Latin American designers' collections. The most remarkable difference between the two group of designers' collections is that various feather patterns are used in Latin American designers' collection, while the accessories reminding of relics of Maya and Inca are widely used in the four major collections.