• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.965-978
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• 2014

To determine the parameters to be considered when designing lower-body apparel, we analyzed the lower-body figures of adult women in their early 20s from Shanghai, China, using 3-dimensional whole body scanner. Thirty-nine lower-body-related measurements were used to analyze the figures of 210 Chinese women. Obesity and height of the lower body, length from waist to crotch, shape of abdomen, and leg bone length were analyzed. Factor analysis was performed and the results were classified into three clusters. The first cluster describes the obesity of the lower body, the second denotes small hip measurement, and the third describes slim and long legs. This is the first study to quantify figure analysis of the lower body of Chinese women using 3-dimensional body measurements. The findings of this study will provide concrete information regarding crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, waist slope, etc., for designing trouser patterns for Chinese adult women.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.35-48
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• 2004

In this study, by determining lower limb movements which cause significant changes in body surface lines, body parts with the greatest maximum expansion and contraction rate respectively were illustrated in descending order. Using unmarried female university students aged 18 - 24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface categories (15 body surface lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses. In particular, expansion and contraction levels and rates were measured and used in the analysis. The analysis first involved the calculation of the average measurement per body part in body surface line in static pose as well as of the average expansion and contraction levels and rates in 9 lower limb movements. Two-way MANOVA and multiple comparison analysis (Tukey) were conducted on movements and individual somatotypes regarding measurement per body part and expansion and contraction rates. Movements which cause measurements of body surface lines differed significantly in body surface line in static pose versus in movement were then identified. Among average expansion and contraction rates in such movements, maximum average expansion and contraction levels, maximum average expansion and contraction rate, and classes of expansion and contraction rate were determined per body part. The results of this study are as follows. First, 5 lower limb movements; F2, F5, F6, F7, F8, which caused significant changes in body surface lines were determined and illustrated in table 4. Second, the levels, rates, and classes of expansion and contraction rate per body part are illustrated in Tables 5 and 6. Body parts with the greatest maximum expansion rate were, in descending order: upper segment of center back leg line, upper segment of inner leg line, middle segment of center front leg line, posterior crotch length, anterior knee girth, anterior thigh girth, center back leg line, girth at crotch height, anterior midway thigh girth, hip girth, anterior crotch length, knee girth, waist girth, inner leg line, thigh girth, and crotch length. Those with the greatest maximum contraction rate were, in descending order: anterior crotch length, upper segment of center front leg line, lower segment of center back leg line, center front leg line, and posterior thigh girth. The maximum expansion rates and maximum contraction rates, which ranged from 2.05 to $35.95\%$ and from -0.20 to $-30.16\%$ respectively, were classified per body part into 4 ABCD classes. The body part with maximum expansion was the upper segment of the center back leg line at vertical body surface line, expanding by $35.95\%$ or 16.03cm in F5 flexion movement. In contrast, the body part with maximum contraction was the anterior crotch length at vertical body surface line, contracting by $-30.16\%$ or -10.54cm in F5 flexion movement. Both, however, were the body parts to expand or contract the most among all horizontal and vertical body surface lines.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research on changes of body surface according to golf movements in designs of golf slacks pattern and reflect it to designs of golf slacks pattern to enhance adaptability. For the first stage of this study, length of body surface was analyzed by using 3D body shape. In second stage, analysis of wearing test of golf slacks is performed to extract major pattern design factor of golf slacks and then research patterns were designed. In third stage, 4 differently designed 1st, 2nd slacks were used for analysis of 3D Clothing air volume. The results of this research is as follow. The variation rate of body surface length according to golf swing posture resulted the longest on back swing posture and follow through posture. Waist circumference-omphalion, thigh and ankle circumference increased more than 10% of body surface during golf swing. Front waist circumference-omphalion, right waist to hip length, left waist to hip length and right back center length were decreased more than 10%. As a result of analysis on measurements of 1st slacks pattern design, waist front center getting in values, waist front center going down value, front hip width, and front crotch extension had similar industrial pattern design. Back center line angle, back crotch extension, and knee center point~back waist center point had significant differences. The designs and ease proposed for golf slacks pattern in this study are waist circumference 75.5 cm(1.8 cm, 2.38%), hip circumference 95 cm(2 cm, 2.11%), crotch length(front: -0.8 cm, -1.25%; rear: -1.8 cm, -2.83%), slacks length 96c m, gradient of C.B.L $10^{\circ}$, crotch extension (back 9.2~10.4 cm, front 3.2 cm).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.929-944
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze two original forms of slacks for thesis to extract outward appearance of design original form applying design measures of the above through diverse research methods. The results of this study are as follow: In original form F, the original form of slacks sloper suitable to elderly women 65~9 years old was W/4+3.5+0.5cm in the front/back circumference of waist, H/4cm in the front/back circumference of hip, (H/4+1+3.8)/2cm in the position of centerline, 19cm in actual measurement value of hip length, 25cm in actual measurement value of crotch depth, (knee crotch circumference~bottom line)/2+10cm and 90 (side waist dot~ lateral malleolus length)cm in actual measurement. front dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of front waist centerline and back dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of back waist circumference. It was suggested that front dart quantity (length) was 3.5(11)cm, back dart quantity 3.4 (10.2)cm, side waist up quantity 0.7cm, back down quantity 1.5cm, front crotch width (H/4+1)/4-1cm, back crotch width (H/4+1)/4+4, front knee width 21.8cm, back knee width 24.4cm, front pant leg 20.8cm, and back pant leg 23.4cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.246-260
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• 2013

This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.541-549
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to examine the slacks purchases and wearing satisfaction among old-aged women who were highly dissatisfied with their bodies and fit due to physical changes and to provide some basic data needed to develop slacks patterns to meet their needs. A survey was taken among 223 old-aged women aged 60~79 living in Seoul. Using the SPSS 12.0 program, the collected data were analyzed in descriptive statistics, t-test, and crosstab. The result were as follows: the most used place for them to shop slacks was a market(including the Dongdaemun and Namdaemun market), which was followed by a department store and a discount store in the order. As for their preference for slacks according to age, those who were in their sixties most preferred straight-line slacks, while those who were in their seventies semistraight-type slacks. As for fit for each body part according to age, there were significant differences only in crotch length. Those who were in their seventies were more dissatisfied with crotch length than those who were in their sixties, feeling that crotch length was short. As for their experiences of repair after purchasing a pair of slacks, 82.5% said they had such an experience. Most of the repairs with length, waist and slacks width involved in size reduction.