• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.275-279
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate a specific character on products of Korean cotton and American cotton with cultivated in sangju city, Korea. The results of this study were as follows: Productivity of American cotton was nine times higher than those of Korean cotton. Spinning coefficient index (SCI: 140), strength (32.6 g/tex), fiber length (1.12 inch), uniformity index (83.4%), short fiber index (6.4), color grade (21) of American cotton was superior than SCI (122), strength (27.7 g/tex), fiber length (1.02 inch), uniformity index(81.1 %), short fiber index (10.6), color grade (23) of Korean cotton. Microaire (3.5), elongation (6.9%) of Korean cotton was superior than American cotton.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.336-338
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• 2005

This paper investigates the influence of raw material and process parameters in spinning that affect the inter fiber cohesion in yams. An instrument has been developed for measuring the minimum twist of cohesion. With regard to the raw material parameters, the influence of different cotton fiber mixings for a given count of yarn is investigated. Also the effect of spinning to varying counts for a given cotton variety is studied. With regard to the process parameters, studies have been carried out to investigate the influence of noil extraction in comber, number of draw frame passages, draft pressure in ring frame and direction of twist. Cohesion improved with increase in the noil extraction percentage in the comber. Increase in the number of draw frame passages also improved the cohesion. Draft pressure in ring frame improved the fiber cohesion in yarn up to a pressure of $2.1kg/cm^2$. Direction of twist had no effect on the cohesion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.113-119
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• 2016

The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improving productivity with good quality of yarns. More detail spinning technology according to mixing of various kinds of fibre materials on the air vortex spinning system is required for obtaining good quality yarns. This paper investigated the physical properties of air vortex yarns compared with ring and compact yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres. It was observed that unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns, which resulted in low tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns. Initial modulus of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns. Yarn imperfections of air vortex yarns such as thin, thick and nep were much more than those of ring and compact yarns. These poor yarn qualities of air vortex yarn were attributed to the fasciated yarn structure with parallel fibres in the core part of the air vortex yarn. However, yarn hairiness of air vortex yarns was less and shorter than those of ring and compact yarns. Thermal shrinkage of air vortex yarns were higher than that of ring yarns, which was caused by sensible thermal shrinkage of PTT fibres on the bulky yarn surface and core part of air vortex yarns.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.42-48
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• 2005

The effects of opening, carding, and repeated drawings on single fiber and bundle cotton characteristics were stud­ied by employing $Mantis^{\circledR}$, $AFIS^{\circledR}$ and HVI Testers. Some of the significant changes in single fiber properties were found to be due to process parameters as well as the changes in the fiber crimps, parallelness of fibers within HVI beards, and the actual changes in the tensile properties of the fibers. The study showed that the HVI test data taken just prior to spinning had the highest correlation with the yam tensile properties. Based on the study results, we point out the potential of HVI for future quality and process control in spinning by recommending a set of expanded HVI output that is more scientific and compre­hensive for the future control needs.

• Fiber Technology and Industry
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 1998

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2001

This study is to reconsider the symbolic potential of the costume by investigating the role of cloth in Indian culture, noting the fact that Indians wore hand-woven cloth and adopted a flag with the spinning wheel in the center as part of their nationalistic programs for independence. The results are as follows; The Indian cotton industry had held the fist position in the world and spinning and weaving had been an Indian national industry until the early part of the 19th century. As for the Indian cotton industry under the rule of Britain, Indian was reduced to being a colony producing raw materials and a market of cheap British finished goods, and eventually fell into anarchy with economic poverty of the general public and peasants'uprising mixed with the complaint of the intellectuals. The Indian National Movement started as a resort to escape the British rule because of continuous poverty and social exhaustion, and its pivot was Gandhi. Gandhi launched a revolutionary noncooperation movement in Indian society with diverse races, religions and castes, and developed nation-wide campaigns such as Boycott, Swadeshi, the encouragement of spinning wheels, etc. Gandhi urged that Indians' weak identity and poverty were caused by the dissolution of their native craft and that the Indians should wear Indian products for economic independence. Accordingly, leaders of Indian National Congress regarded a spinning wheel as an economic necessity and national symbol, and approved manual spinning and weaving as part of their nationalistic programs in order to drew the general public to the nationalistic movement in 1920. They also decided that all Congressmen should wear hand-woven cloth, Khadi, and adopted spinning wheels as the logo type of Indian National Congress. Khadi, Indian national cloth, was a symbol of national unification, freedom and equality, and also a means of economic self-sufficiency, Swadeshi, and eventually led India to autonomy, Swaraji. Therefore, it can be concluded that the cloth converted Indias economic and political identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.65-81
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• 1981

I referred to documents to study the origin and the progressing process of textiles. Cotton seeds were first imported from China by Mun, Ik Jem at the end of the era of Koryeo, and cotton had several different names such as mok-myen, cho-myen, gil-pae, baek-chep-za, tap-po, ban-ki-wha, dong-yep-po and so on. Since the era of the Three Kingdoms, people had heard of cloth of superior quality but it was not certain whether it was imported from China or made in our country. It seems that cotton was not made during that period, white silk, hemp cloth, and ramie fabric were produced. At that time, linen was called cotton by mistake. After importing cotton seeds from China, all the people began to plant them and made their clothes from them. At the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, the weaving technique was dependent on China. However, the government persuaded farmers to plant them. At that time cotton was used as a means of purchasing instead of money. Silkworms raising started during the era of the Three Kingdoms and it was widely spread at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty. In order to encourage sericulture' spinning and weaving instruments were installed in the royal palace and the queen with sher court maids demonstrated how to spin and weave. The activity was named "chin-jam-ye." Linen was the representative of all textiles and it was also very popular. The technique of weaving had already been highly developed at the era of Silla. During the era of the Three Kingdoms people used "bang-chu-cha" as a weaving instrument. They discovered several new hand machines in the period of the Yi Dynasty: they were instrument of removing seeds, spinning wheel, hemp cloth loom and so on, and we find the remains of them these days.