• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.381-389
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• 2002

This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.173-180
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• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.25-29
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• 1977

The warmth retentivity of natural and syntheic waddings as bedding stuff, and further, the machanism of heat transmission through conduction, radiation and convection were analysed. The materials used were cotton, silk, and wool as natural waddings, and polyamide, polyester, regular acrylic, conjugate acrylic, regular polyprepylene and conjugate polypropylene as synthetic waddings. The results of this study are as follow: 1. The warmth retentivity is highest in silk. Following silk in descending order is cotton, conjugate acrylic, polyester, regular acrylic, wool, polyamide, conjugate polypropylene and regular polypropylene. There is not any significant relationship between warmth retentivity and the conductivity of the fibers. 2. Transmission by radiation through the fiber waddings is highest in conjugate polypropylene. Following conjugate polypropylene in descending order is regular polypropylene. polyester. polyamide, conjugate acrylic, regular acrylic, wool, cotton, and silk. This is seen to be in nearly reversed order to the abovementioned order of warmth retentivity. In this respect, warmth retentivity with loose fibreous material as in the case of bedding stuff is primarily affected by the interceptive function of the fibers in heat radiation. 3. Warmth retentivity becomes lower with increasing air content of the waddings. This is because heat transmission by radiation incrases as air content increases. The air content increase is due to the fact that the air is unable to intercept heat radiation. In addition, heat transmission accelates in proportion to the increase in convection as the air gap enlarges.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.248-254
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• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.14-20
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• 2010

Squid ink was purified to melanin powder by repeated treatments with aqueous sodium hydroxide and acetic acid solutions. The exhaustion dyeing conditions of melanin to wool fabrics were investigated in relation with pH, melanin concentration, dyeing temperature and time. The melanin was dyeable to cotton and wool fabrics but higher dyeability of the wool was observed. A K/S of 7 was obtained on the optimally dyed wool fabrics with 5 % owf melanin under pH 4 at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness to both washing and rubbing was excellent and color fastness to light was also very good probably due to the polymeric nature of the extracted sepia melanin.

• 산업융합연구
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.93-101
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• 2023

본 연구에서는 칼과 가위 및 화학약품에 의한 물리·화학적 섬유 손상을 분석하여 손상의 원인 파악을 위한 기술 데이터 자료로써 활용하고자 하였다. 칼 4종류 및 가위 5종류와 4종류의 화학약품(황산, 염산, 수산화나트륨, 수산화칼륨)을 이용하여 면(Cotton), 울(Wool), 폴리에스터(Polyester), 레이온(Rayon), T/C(Polyester 50%, Cotton 50%), T/W(Polyester 50%, Wool 50%)에 물리·화학적 손상을 생성하여 공구와 화학약품에 따른 손상을 분석하였다. 칼과 가위에 의한 관통 손상은 칼의 날 부분이 관통한 경우 공통으로 "V" 유형의 손상이 나타났으며, 칼의 등 부분이 관통한 칼의 경우 "T", "ㅁ", 갈고리, "ㄷ" 유형의 손상이 나타났다. 또한, 가위의 경우 모두 "Y" 유형의 손상이 공통으로 나타났다. 화학약품에 의한 섬유 손상은 유류 흔적, 부식, 분해, 수축, 변색 등 다양한 손상이 나타났으며, 화학약품과 섬유의 종류에 따라 나타나는 손상에 차이를 보였다. 섬유의 물리적 손상은 공구의 형태적 특성에 따라 나타나는 특징에 차이를 보였으며, 화학적 손상은 화학약품과 섬유의 종류에 따른 특징 차이를 보임을 확인하였다.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.97-112
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were to investigate consumers preference and dissatisfied factors in knitted golf wear The 430 questionnaires were sent to consumers who live in the Seoul Metropolitan district including Pundang-city and Iisan-city, The return rate was 89.5%. Statistical devices were t-test, ANOVA, $X$2. frequency with SAS program. The results of this study were as follows: First, Preferred colors were pastel, straw yellow, and black in descending order. Preferred coordination was analogous rather than complementary coordination. The classical look with T-neck, pullover, and V-neck was preferred. The preferred materials were pure cotton and cotton/wool blend in solid colors or plain and intasia structure. There were significant differences that pure cotton was preferred the forties and fifties or housewife, and cotton blend was preferred the thirties or service jobholders. Second, dissatisfied factors were pilling, deformation and de-coloration. The pilling problem was indicated in all income levels. Customers complained about no exchange and no refund policy with sales persons'discourtesy and time delay for repairing.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.249-257
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• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.208-215
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• 2018

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.