• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.15-25
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• 1996

Wool fabric and merino wool top were dyed with two dyes, C.I. Acid Red 13 and C.I. Direct Blue 1 in presence of hydrogen peroxide/glyoxal redox system at various conditions such as dyeing time, temperature and redox concentration. The pH of dye bath was 4.5 in buffer solution of $KH_{2}PO_{4}$ (0.1mol/1)/$Na_{2}HPO_{4}$ (0.1mol/1). Also dyeing of cotton fabric was carried out with C.I. Direct Blue 1 in absence or presence of redox system. The color depth(K/S) increased with redox concentration and dyeing temperature. The increases in dyeing rate and equilibrium dye exhaustion of Acid Acid 13 and Direct Blue 1 on wool fiber and fabric in the present of hydrogen peroxide/glyoxal have been caused by decreasing in pH value during dyeing process which due to the decomposition of hydrogen ion in glyoxal with the assistance of hydrogen peroxide. But the decreases in exhaustion of Direct Blue 1 on cotton may be attributed to repulsive interac ion between salt and salt.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.37-42
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• 2003

Although fibre reactive dyes for wool were developed before those for cellulosic fibres, there are still limited ranges of fibre reactive dyes available for wool compared to those for cellulosic fbres. Since Fujioka and Abeta introduced the first mixed bifunctional reactive system in the early 1980s for cellulosic fibres, there has been some works on cotton and on silk. (omitted)

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.129-142
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• 2013

Fabrics created unique features through the change in various ways depending on the elements including fabric structure, threads, thickness, weaving, patterns and processing. This study examined the difference between texture and image depending on components of fabrics. In order to understand the trend of components of fabrics, the actual components of fabrics was analyzed by year, using the women's apparel trend books, Nelly Rodi Fabrics and Promostyl Fabrics. This study analyzed Spring/Summer season and Fall/Winter season from 2002 to 2012. Frequency analysis, cross-tabulation analysis, multiple response cross tabulation analysis were implemented using SPSS 18.0. The followings are the analysis results. For fabric composition, Spring/Summer season used cotton fabric the most. Cotton fabric accounted for relatively high usage in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Fall/Winter season used wool the most in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. In case of fiber blend by fabric composition, cotton was blended with other fibers in Spring/Summer season except wool. The fiber blending ratio of wool was the highest in Fall/Winter season. Wool was blended in most fabrics. More than two patterns were mixed for fabric patterns. The fabric patterns were applied the most in 2012. For fabric processing, the fabrics by sensitivity-functional processing were continuously used every year and the surface finish showed relatively high usage in 2002 and 2011. In conclusion, this study will build the systematic data for 11 years including fabric trends in the past. It can improve specialization, systematization and efficiency in fabric planning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.301-306
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• 1993

Since the underquilt has an important role of supporting the human body in sleeping, it needs to sustain ample degrees of hardness, elasticity, humidity absorption, and warmth retention property and also to have the two ergonimical requirements : It should not be too soft to allow human bodies to sink in, and that it should be comfortable for humans to tum over in sleeping. This study aims to investigate the effect of the thermal insulation of the variation in weight applied to the underquilt. For this purpose, six items were selected as filling materials for the underquilt : cotton, wool, silk, down, polyester, cotton/ployester. Various weights were applied to each of the underquilts to survey the reduction tendency of its thermal insulation effect. The results are as follow : 1. The Thermal insulation effect of each underquilt decreased in an exponetial function as the weight on the underquilt was increased. 2. The thermal reduction curves according to the load weight insrease were shown to be constant in shape regardless of the weight increase. 3. At the weight of more than $25kg/m^2$ the degree of the thermal insulation effect of each underquilt was found to be in order of down>cotton>silk>polyester>wool>cotton/ployester. 4. The variation in load weight applied to each underquilt was shown to be in reverse correlation with the thermal insulation effect. An estimated regression formula can be made on the data.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.63-68
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• 2006

Walnut colorants were extracted from walnut hull and their dyeing properties on cotton were investigated. Effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and effect of mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Walnut colorants showed low affinity to cotton compared with wool and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type. It was considered that hydrogen bonding and van der Waal's force were involved in the adsorption of walnut colorants onto cotton. The dyed cotton showed YR color and there was no significant color change as pH changed. The dyed cotton showed generally high colorfastness except fastness to washing and light. Mordanting did not improve dye uptake and colorfastness, and not affect color of the dyed cotton significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.283-289
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• 1992

In this paper, dyeing properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same liquor-goods ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fibers but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, there fibers were similar and three were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white cotton fabric was higher in case of red dyes and it showed the difference of dye's properties. The degree of stain about white wool fabric showed the highs resistance or stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the dyes. used were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was consistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than that of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arose from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly oriented structure.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.75-80
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• 1998

In this paper, deying properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same dyeing bath ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fabrics but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, three fabrics were similar and there were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white fabric cotton was highest in case of red dyes. The degree of stain about white fabric wool showed the high resistance of stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the used dyes were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was cosistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arouse from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly ordered structure.