• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.225-230
• /
• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.88-98
• /
• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.203-210
• /
• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.44 no.4 s.218
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2006

This study examines the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Jean Paul Gaultier, who represents the fashion in France and is famous for avant-garde and experimental works through dismantling, from the first haute couture collection in 1997 to the present. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in domestic and international fashion journals. Three characteristics are revealed in his works. First of all, he provided a transcendental fashion different from the established wearing or ornamental ways by dismantling the dichotomies between male and female, time and space, and beauty and ugliness. Second, he reflected the decadent beauty recognized as representing women's sexual and provocative expression based on exposure, suppression, perversion, and grotesque manifestations by shaping an esthetic value within a different point of view. Finally, he was characterized as being transcendental with an eclectic fusion of intercultural differences or dynamics, items in costume formation, time and space, and eastern and western. This transcendental expression, Gaultier's desire for creativeness, can be an ideal characterizing this era.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.49 no.9
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2011

The number of Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes that have been discovered is small but includes various kinds of coat. These coats have become important clues when trying to determine styles of coat that were present in the mid-17he composition of the costumes found were various, including unlined, lined, padded and quilted variations. Unlined clothes were sewed using broad-stitching, hemming, half backstitching, and backstitching. The unique sewing style of the 17th century was shown in Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes. Seams on the back of one coat were not connected but rather sewed as a whole because of the width of the cloth. There was a more elaborate sewing style on lined clothes than on unlined clothes, alongside the use of selvage on the reverse of the costumes, marking the face not by using other clothes, but by the sewing line. Because of their to kit types, the width of the sleeves, the presence of a Cheolrik string, the ratio of the upper jacket to the bottom skirt, and the width between the armpits and bottom hems in Jungchimak, Ryu Ji Kyung's clothes can be used as exemplary models of mid-17th century clothing.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.207-215
• /
• 1994

This study was conducted to expand the use of the Gal Ot which has been called Cheju-Do's folk costume. The Gal-Ot has been mainly used the traditional clothes which the farmers have worn during working in the fields. In this study, We firstly developed the dyeing methods used the immature persimmon juice and dyed the dress and fabrics. We secondly designed the diverse Gal-Ot which we can wear for the everyday dress, that is, men's and women's upper and lower clothes and reformed another Korean Style's Dresses and children's one-piece. This study strongly suggested that the Gal-Ot would be used for the everyday wear and the street wear for adults and children and that the improvement of dyeing method used the immature persimmon would be expanded the use of the Gal Fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.701-708
• /
• 2009

The study aims to investigate women's clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang in Nara period of Japan to gain a clear understanding of the clothes of the ruling class women at that time. Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang was made in Nara period of Japan when Japan sent envoys and students to Tang, a dynasty of China, to acquire advanced civilization. At that time, Japan also fostered a strong international culture through the exchanges with neighboring nations. With this inflow of continental culture, Japan was dramatically advanced politically, socially, and culturally. The analysis of the clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang showed that she had her hair decorated with Bogye. She wore Ungyeon, Baeja, Daesui, and Tongsui as for her upper garment and Gun, Seub, and Peseul as for her lower garment. She also wore Bidae and Youngeon and put on Geummal and Seok on her feet. Overall, these results suggested that she wore Chinese style clothes. The clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sangwere very similar to formal dresses of high class women described in Yangroryeong. Some of her clothes were not shown in Yangroryeong because those clothes were added after Yangroryeong. Another reason may be due to the fact that generalized clothes could be worn even though those clothes were not described in the dress code. In conclusion, the clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang suggest that they were based on the dress code of Nara Period of Japan while there were also some variations due to the cultural circumstances at that time.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.47-59
• /
• 2016

This research is concerned with comparing fluctuation in the Korean and the US economies in order to ascertain the degree to which the former is influenced by changes in the latter. The aim of this research is to explore business cycles, to examine consumer expenditure in Korea and the US, and to discover the relationships between business fluctuation indexes and overall expenditure. Statistical data from the national statistics of Korea and the US during period from 1990 to 2015 were used. The instrument included a measure of GDP, unemployment rates, GDP deflator rate (inflation rates), and household income and expenditure. For the average annual household expenditures, food, apparel and transportation expenditure data were compared across the two countries. Data were collected separately from different (though comparable) sources and were analyzed using relatively straight forward statistical techniques. It was found that Korean and the US consumers' income and expenditure were greatly affected by economic fluctuations. Total expenditure and the expenditures for food and transportation were much influenced by business fluctuation in the US, whereas, the expenditures for apparel were much influenced by business fluctuation in Korea.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.40-49
• /
• 2016

This study examined students' perceived importance of the benefits derived from an international multi-course collaborative (IMCC) project and how these perceptions impact students' extrinsic and intrinsic motivations for using the project Facebook (i.e., perceived usefulness and enjoyment), attitude toward the project, and intent to participate in future IMCC projects. The data were collected from 96 students who participated in the IMCC project and were enrolled in four different fashion merchandising courses in two different countries, the U.S. and South Korea. This study found that perceived enjoyment of the project Facebook influenced attitude toward the project and intent to participate in future IMCC projects. Perceived usefulness and enjoyment were predicted by the perceived importance of cultural understanding and feedback exchange among international group members. Attitude was influenced by the perceived importance of networking through the IMCC project, while intent to participate in future IMCC projects was predicted by perceived importance of cultural understanding and networking through the IMCC project. This study provides educators in the related disciplines insights about how to incorporate social network sites into course curricula to motivate students' project participation and learning.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.44-53
• /
• 2006

The purposes of this study were to find out any significants among somatotypes and face types and importance of image making to successful students' life. The respondents were composed of 181 males and 160 females. It consists of total 29 items including the facial features, personality expression methods, characteristics of body shapes, image making, colors and neckline and their responses were measured with Likert 5-point scale. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, cross-tabulation analysis including $Χ^2$-test and frequency analysis were used. As the results, 47％ of male students and 28% of female students responded they were satisfied with their own facial types. 32% of male students and all female students were not satisfied with their own body shapes and fashion depends on accessories like hat, sunglasses, boots and necklace rather than dress itself. All male and female students were not satisfied with their body shapes and recognized the importance of image. They answered that they change image if someone advices their image and it suggests that information and intellectual needs of image making are required and approach to efficient methods of image making is needed.