• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.85-97
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• 1999

Contemporary hairstyle is too various and individual to be explained by an objective theory and an asthetic appraisal. Consequently, this study is to understand the various expression of contemporary hairstyle on the basis of J. Derrida\`s deconstruction theory. The results of this study are following as : First, it breaks up binary metaphysic and pursues disharmonous beauty because of intertextuality. Second, it breaks up logocentrism metaphysic and pursues neglected beauty because of decentring. Finally, it breaks up present metaphysic and puruses accidental beauty because of undecidability.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 1994

The attempts in pursuit of humanity in contemporary architecture brought about meaning to the 'Locality as a main conception which opens new potentiality at this confused period. Contemporary housing design should meet the indigenous ‘Locality’ of the building sites environment. An adequate adaptation to the ‘Locality’ will bring more efficient use, lower running-costs, and longer durability of original beauty of the houses. Our contemporary houses should admit general requirements at this time and they should be expressed through not only space but also form and design. Finally, we must find the direction of elevation planning of Korean contemporary houses, inquiring into design elements of ‘Locality’ in the view point of transformation and analyzing how the elements are represented in contemporary houses. This research was aimed to find how to optimize an elevation design of houses in adapting to the Korean indigenous ‘Locality’ in order to create a domestic housing design suitable for Korean life style, however, one cannot ignored elements of the Korean traditional mode of living.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.111-123
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate girlish fashion as a contemporary as well as Romanticism of the 21st century. The background of girlish fashion is regarded as a hot blast of restoration and a appearance of kidults, such characteristics of these factors, that is, the moderns's longing for the memory of old days and kidult's concerns for the dream of their childhood, have a direct influence on the Romanticism. So the plasticity of girlish fashion was analyzed as a results: 1) This plasticity named Recurrent Romanticism as 21st New Look, especially the plasticity represented in a princess style fashion. The princess style fashion of girlish fashion means not only a expression of the moderns's self-confidence but also nostalgia toward old days. 2) Sweet Romanticism developed into angel style fashion, which the style expressed the moderate cuteness with clothing construction and detail etc and the innocence with white color. 3) The plasticity of girlish fashion called a feast of color named Fantastic Romanticism. Fantastic Romanticism of girlish fashion means not only a expression of a lovely girlie's image but also hope toward 21st century. Throughout the study, Romanticism as a cultural code of 21st century was considered to reflected in the whole livelihood as well as contemporary fashion, especially, girlish fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.58-73
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• 2018

This study examines the socio-cultural background of a Nerd-chic look, establishes a conceptual foundation for Nerd-chic look and examines its aesthetic characteristics in order to understand the latest modern fashion phenomenon. Nerd-chic look is a combination of 'nerd' as a popular collective style and 'chic', which refers to the aesthetic value of a costume style. It is a look that is expressed in fashion that reflects the contemporary aesthetic desires based on a nerd's external features and inner values. The aesthetic characteristics of the Nerd-chic look are as follows. First, the Nerd-chic look express the aesthetic characteristic of bricolage that transforms the familiar meaning of an outdated nerd style to 'chic' image by the rearrangement of the typical nerd style and retro fashion elements. Second, the Nerd-chic look express the aesthetic characteristic of supernormal, as a plain, restrained beauty based on the Normcore fashion mood, disassembly and recombination of ordinary items, fit-free styling, and asexual styling. Third, the Nerd-chic look expresses the aesthetic characteristics of deluxe poor, which rejects stereotypical and expensive luxury and presents a more contemporary and futuristic spirituality. It is expressed in oversized shapes that are not intended to fit the body and show incompatibility between fashion items or way of dressing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.85-94
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• 1999

It is very signigicant to study a dominant drift of the contemporary formative art. And it's research not only gives us a great pleasure of study but also will be a big help for designers to study how the dominant drift of the contemporary art has developed thereafter, and what it has influenced upon the following formative movement of it. In this sense I think I cannot emphasize it too strong that I gave a subtitle 'Especially analyzed in War and Peace' do my paper because we can find a real aspect of the formative movement rather by sociological point of view than by formative art itself. In this sense, 1 selected Art Deoo as a thesis of research among other things because Art Deco developed socially in respond to general pressure to adapt to modem World, specially, was a stage in an already burgeoning revolution in the decorative arts. Through this sociological point of view on Art Deco I found lots of things worthwhile to research it Art Deco, which I think shows us a special aspect of the sandwich culture between both world wars in Europe, played the important role of a bridge likning its peculiar style with those of contemporary arts in Europe. In this paper the sociological research of Art Deco style will reveal what the European's emotions meant in the socio-psychological circumstances of Deco between both world wars, and where the peculiarity of Art Deco style came from, and especially why the colors of Art Deco was so gorgeous as called 'color for color's sake'. I tried to put the importance of research of Art Deco largely on the sociological or socio-psychological points of view not on the only formative viewpoints. I could draw a conclusion that Art Deco has a contradictive duplicity in its style that can be expressible in a word like 'naivety in gorgeousness, simplicity in complexity, orderliness in confusion, and peacefulness in noisiness'.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.39-47
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• 2012

In this study, it was analyzed that, the way of securing publicity and privacy in family and type of public space of the Japanese contemporary detached house, by the composition type of family from one person home to four generation family home. Mostly the living room is made as open plan of LDK type. Mostly, the entrance hall is separate with living room. Even if the case of the entrance hall is connected with living room, it is planned to be recognized as entrance hall, by making entrance poach or connecting it with stair hall. In many case, the public space is designed as traditional Japanese style, such as wellhole style space (吹拔け), courtyard, and Japanese style room (和室). The Japanese style room is adjacent to living room, and used as the space of receiving guests. The wellhole style space and courtyard are recognized as the center of the house, and used as buffer space for ensuring privacy of each generation. The most different point between bachelor house and multi generation family house is another LDK space, living room or kitchen for parents' generation is made separately. Particularly there are many case of making separate small kitchen space, therefore it can be known that, the separation of kitchen space is recognized more importantly than that of living room. And there are many case of making separate entrance hall, two houses under one roof. The spatial composition like this can said as rational method of ensuring the privacy of each generation, and using the public space together as necessary.