• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제37권5호
• /
• pp.676-690
• /
• 2013

This study explored the historical meaning and the present practices of Indonesian batik. Relevant literature was reviewed first; subsequently, interviews and observations were conducted to achieve the purpose of the study. Historically, batik was an integral part of the Javanese court art as well as a representation of each regional culture. Batik also became an important means to reveal a national identity in postcolonial Indonesia in the 1950s. There exist two types of traditional and modern type batik in present Indonesia. The traditional batik refers to batik tulis, batik cap, and the combination of tulis and cap. The modern batik is comprised of a batik print as well as the combination of the print and the traditional batik. The traditional batik was practiced at the small-sized village batik workshops and in the government batik research center. A few batik workshops often co-operate with modern screen print factories; however, the use natural dyes for the dyeing of batik cloth is rarely found. Batik was used for varied objects made from fabric materials that include clothing, small fashion items, living supplies and furniture, as well as fine art such as paintings and wooden crafts.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.263-268
• /
• 2005

Alpaca fibers have some distinct properties such as softness and warmth, which have not been fully understood in combination with the fiber internal structures. In the present investigation, the internal structures of alpaca fibers have been closely examined under the scanning electron microscope (SEM), especially in the longitudinal direction. The results showed that numerous pigment granules reside loosely inside pockets in brown and dark-brown alpaca fibers. These pigment granules were mainly distributed inside the cortical cells, the medullation regions as well as underneath the cuticles. Their size in the brown alpaca fibers was smaller and more uniformly round than in the dark-brown fibers. These granules in colored alpaca fibers loosen the bundle of cortical cells, providing many crannies in the fibers which may contribute to the superior flexibility, warmth and softness of the fibers. Moreover, there are no heavy metal elements found in the granules. The mordant hydrogen peroxide bleaching employed could eliminate the pigment granules and create many nano-volumes for further dyeing of fibers into more attractive colors.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제39차 학술발표회
• /
• pp.93-94
• /
• 2008

The color mixture by using indigo and Japanese pagoda is worked on rayon, which is made of cellulose, to diversify colors of natural dyes. The process which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be allowed various possibilities of color combination than that of using Japanese pagoda first. And also the color mixture with the use of mordant which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be expected more effective to get diverse colors than that of using Japanese pagoda first.

• 한국생물공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국생물공학회 2002년도 생물공학의 동향 (X)
• /
• pp.371-374
• /
• 2002

염색폐수 중에 포함된 PVA를 생물학적으로 제거하기 위하여 PVA 분해용 미생물 50종을 분리하였다. 분리된 균주의 PVA 분해효율을 살펴보기 위하여 단일균주만을 이용한 실험과 단일균주들의 조합을 사용하여 실험을 진행하였는데, 단일균주를 사용했을 때는 최대 60%, 조합을 사용했을 때는 최대 96%의 분해율을 얻을 수 있었으며 3일 이내에 80% 이상을 분해하였는데, 이러한 결과는 지금까지 발표된 연구에서 보고된 PVA 분해기간 중 가장 빠른 결과이다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2007

In recent years, the application of digital textile printing has increased. The benefits of using this method include the ease of sampling and the production of printed textiles. However, the production process of digital textile printing differs from that of conventional printing. For successful digital textile printing by ink-jet technology, the pretreatment of fabrics is very important in order to overcome the following problems. Low viscosity ink can spread easily on the textile surface leading to poor resolution. As a result, the combination of ink and pretreatment chemicals is still impractical and consequently most fabrics used in digital textile printing will require a pre treated coating in order to prevent the ink colours from bleeding on the fabric. Research presented in this paper shows some preliminary attempts to establish the relationship between the pre treatment and the digital textile printing quality. Various cotton fabrics were treated with pre treatment agents including ingredients like thickener, alkali and humectant, and then ink spread effect and colour yield of printed fabrics by reactive ink were analysed by using an optical microscope and K/S value. The results show that digital textile printing quality on cotton fabrics can be optimized with appropriate pre treatments.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권5호
• /
• pp.669-676
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.45-53
• /
• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제24권3호
• /
• pp.221-231
• /
• 2012

Rayon fabrics were treated with some commercial non-formaldehyde and low-formaldehyde resins, and then their effect on the physicochemical properties of fabrics, including formaldehyde release, tear strength, shrinkage, and wrinkle recovery, were investigated respectively. Rayons treated with non-formaldehyde resin, little formaldehyde release was observed. Considering other factors, the optimal concentration of non-formaldehyde resin was shown to be 11-13%, and curing temperature was $170{\sim}175^{\circ}C$. In case of low-formaldehyde type, 9-11% resin concentration and curing temperature of $170{\sim}180^{\circ}C$ were recommended for optimal finishing condition. The choice and combination of resins and catalysts were also important factors, and preliminary considerations before resin-finishing of rayon are also important to get much better results.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제35권3호
• /
• pp.151-158
• /
• 2023

In this study, we investigated the durability properties of the recycled leather using shaving scrap with antioxidant. Recycled leather sheets were manufactured by mixing shaving scrap and NB latex as a binder. HALS(Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer) and UVA(UV absorbers) were used as antioxidant. Mechanical properties such as hardness, tensile strength, elongation, tear strength and abrasion resistance were measured. Light aging resistance was evaluated using UV lamp and the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets using a gray scale. In addition, to evaluate heat aging and UV aging, the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets over time was measured using colorimeter. Washing fastness was evaluated on the degree of dyeing of recycled leather sheets for six type of multi-fiber woven fabrics (Acetate, Cotton, Nylon-66, Polyester, Acryl, Wool). To determine whether hazardous substances were detected in recycled leather sheets, the contents of arylamine and Cr 6⁺ were evaluated. As a result, when used in combination with antioxidant, the heat aging and light aging of recycled leather were improved and hazardous substance were not detected.