• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.194-205
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• 2013

In this study, we report dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract from Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Non-aqueous dye of Juniperus chinensis heartwood extracted with methanol was expressed reddish color. It showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Dye uptake of cotton and silk continued to increase according to the increase of the dye concentration. Cotton was not affected by the dyeing temperature and time, however, dye uptake of silk was increased as the dyeing time and temperature were increased. Dye uptake of cotton and silk were the highest at pH 8 and pH 6 respectively. Dyed fabrics showed various colors depending on mordant types and mordant concentration. Washing, light and perspiration fastness were not good. However, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness showed relatively good grade. Dyed fabrics of ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved. Also, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.80-95
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• 2015

In this study, the properties such as color, dye uptake and antibacterial function were examined through the application of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with extracts from Humulus japonicus(hwansam) and the pruned branches of Prunus persica(peach) tree. In terms of dye uptake and surface color changes subject to the kind of mordants, methods and mixing ratio of dye, it was found that fabrics dyed by the pre-mordanting method with $CuSO_4$ showed the red green yellow group colors, which were not seen in fabrics dyed with hwansam only. Color fastness was found strong at grade 4-5 with 96.3% of UV protection ratio. While the fastness to light was as fair as grade 3, it showed an excellent result of 99.9% bacteria reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus with fair 58% deodorization rate and 21.2% antibacterial rate against Klebsiella pneumoniae. As stated above, the combination and mixed dyeing resulted in the meaningful outcomes with regard to color variations, dye uptake, color fastness and functional properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.181-193
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with hot-water extract from Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Water-soluble dye of Juniperus chinensis heartwood extracted with distilled water was expressed YR color series. Dye uptake of cotton continued to increase according to the increase of the dye concentration. Its variation trends were shown to be similar to the isothermal absorption curve of the Freundlich. Dye uptake of silk was better than cotton, increased depending on increasing concentration of the dye, dyeing time and temperature. Its variation trends were shown to be similar to the isothermal absorption curve of the Langmuir. As the pH increased, the dye uptake of fabrics reduced and showed increased on red tinge. Colors of the dyed fabrics were various, depending on dye concentration and the mordant type and mordant concentration. Washing fastness, light fastness and perspiration fastness were not good. However, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness showed relatively good grade. Dyed fabrics of ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved. And dyed fabrics showed antimicrobial abilities of 99.9% against Staphylococcus aureus.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.288-300
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• 2015

This study was executed to substitute Carbon-arc method, which is a method currently used for testing light-fastness of military textile products, with Xenon arc method. Specimens used in the study were classified according to the fabric material and color of military textile products and were composed of 11 items of 42 kinds with different colors. Light-fatness test was done by comparing the result of Carbon-arc(KS K 0700) and Xenon arc(KS K ISO 105-B02) method. In Xenon arc method, blue wool reference materials of 1~8 was used, and exposure condition preferred in American continent and light exposure method 3 were applied. After testing with both methods, grade of light-fastness, color difference, reflectance and color were examined. Even though there was a slight difference among 42 specimens used in the test, results exceeded the quality standard both in Carbon-arc-lamp and Xenon arc-lamp. Therefore, it was confirmed that applying KS K ISO 105-B02 together in the KS K 0700-regulated Ministry of National Defense standard and purchase order would also fit.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.268-275
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• 2017

As the substitute of synthetic coloring materials for hair dyeing, we selected some natural ones of three primary colors such as sappan wood, logwood(red), gardenia blue(blue) and amur cork tree(yellow). Mixed colorants and metallic mordanting technique were used to widen the color space of dyed samples. In view of similarity in morphological and chemical structure, wool was adopted as the reference material for human hair to evaluate the color properties of hair dyeing. The color properties of the dyed samples were evaluated by using CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell color systems. The addition of an alum or ferrous mordants was effective to expand the color space of hair and to increase the colorfastness to washing and light more than the rating of 1. Displaying the dyed samples by using Munsell color system, better linearity of hue values between the dyed samples of wool and human hair was shown when alum mordant was used.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.32-38
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• 2003

To get the variety of color by natural dyeing, cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with natural indigo and safflower in turn. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried. First, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed repeatedly in safflower dyebath to five times to get the five fabrics dyed in different shades. And then indigo dyeing process was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with safflower. In second way, the fabrics were dyed in five stages of shade by repetition of dyeing process in indigo dyebath. And then safflower dyeing was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with indigo. When indigo dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with safflower, the color differences decreased between five shades of fabrics, their color values got similar in hue, shade and chroma. When safflower dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with indigo, the fabrics showed different hue of colors between red and blue of Munsell color circle such as RP, P and PB. Like almost of fabrics dyed with plants materials, the lightfastness and laundering fastness of dyed samples were poet and drycleaning fastness were good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.290-298
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• 2016

In this study, the efficacy of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a new natural dye resource was investigated. For this purpose, the colorants from water lily leaves were extracted in methanol, evaporated, and powdered. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FTIR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins and chrolophyll were contained in the extracted colorants. The colorants showed good affinity to cotton fiber showing Y Munsell color. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method. By mordanting, dyed fabrics exhibited various colors such as green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. Colorfastness to washing and rubbing was relatively good showing 4-5 rating. The light fastness was improved 1-2 rating by Fe mordanting. The dyed cotton fabric showed antimicrobial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.