• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.42-50
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of pomegranate hull colorant as a natural hair coloring dye. The extract of pomegranate hull was concentrated and freeze-dried to get colorant powder. Effect of dyeing condition and mordanting on the dye uptake of hair by using Al, Fe, Cu, Cr, Sn compounds, color change and colorfastness were explored. In addition, tensile strength was measured and the surface of the hair was observed. Dye uptake of hair measured by K/S value (400 nm) indicated that ionic bonding seems to be involved in the sorption of pomegranate colorant to hair. Maximum sorption was obtained at pH 3.5 and the concentration of 50% (on the weight of hair, o.w.h.). Acidic dyeing condition (pH $3.5{\sim}5.0$) showed yellow color however alkaline dyeing condition (pH $7{\sim}11$) gave reddish yellow color. Pomegranate hull colorant produced greyish brown color on hair and the hair mordanted with Fe showed dark brown color. Mordants except Fe did not increase dye uptake significantly. Mordants except Cu increased light fastness and mordants except Cr increased washing fastness level slightly. According to SEM observation and the tensile strength retention measurement, the mordant dyed hair gave more damage to hair by ultraviolet light and washing than the hair dyed without mordanting. Experimental results of K/S value and colorfastness(light and washing) supported that pomegranate hull colorant without mordanting can be used as a semi-permanent natural hair coloring dye.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.10-18
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• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.211-222
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated the dyeing properties of the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric with Sulphur black dye regarding to the effect of dye concentrations, reducing agent contents, sodium carbonate contents, antioxidant contents, immersion temperature and exposure time in air by pad-steam process. The optimal conditions of dyeing for the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were determined with dye concentration of 30% o.w.f., reducing agent content of $9{\sim}13g/{\ell}$, sodium carbonate content of $1{\sim}4g/{\ell}$, antioxidant content of $1{\sim}5g/{\ell}$, immersion temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, exposure time of 20 minutes in air and immersion time of 1 minute, respectively. Meanwhile, the colorfastness to washing, the colorfastness to light, and the colorfastness to perspiration for dyed ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades. The formaldehyde and arylamine were not detected on the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric by KC tests.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.281-287
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.249-257
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• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.473-484
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• 2002

The physical characteristics of silk and wool fabrics dyed with OFS-FR and SM-FR were examined and color difference and colorfastness of these fabrics were analyzed. The results are as follows; 1. The thickness, density and weight of both dyed fabrics were increased than those of undyed fabrics independently of dyeing materials and mordants. 2. Air permeability of all the silk samples increased than that of undyed silk, on the other hand, air permeability of most of wool samples decreased than that of undyed wool. 3. Thermal insulation values of silk samples were not consistent with dyeing conditions, but those of wool samples increased than those of undyed fabrics regardless of dyeing materials and mordants. 4. Color difference was clear between OFS-FR and SM-FR dyed fabrics. The colors dyed with OFS-FR-Al and OFS-FR-chitos an showed violet, those dyed with SM-FR displayed yellowish, in addition to in case of wool, dyed with OFS-FR-Cu the color was greenish yellow, in case of silk dyed with SM-FR-Cu that was yellowish red. 5. Sense of silk fabrics by sensory-test was soft and smooth. Feeling of colors in silk fabrics was wick, warm and slightly brilliant. In case wool, sense of dyed fabrics was slightly soft and slightly rough. Feeling of colors in wool fabrics was warm but not elegant. Therefore the result of sensory-test in silk might be better than that of in wool. 6. Colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspirations was good, but that to washing and sunlight was not fine.