• Title/Summary/Keyword: Collar Construction Factors

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A Comparative Study on the Tailored Collar Patterns of Women's Jackets - Focus on Clothing Construction Textbooks - (여성복 테일러드 칼라 패턴 비교연구 - 의복구성학 교재를 중심으로 -)

  • Jeong, Hwa-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.4
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    • pp.617-627
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    • 2010
  • This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

A Study on the Collar Construction Factors of the Women's Tailored Jacket (여성복 테일러드 재킷의 칼라제작요인에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Gu-Young;Kim, Yeo-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.947-954
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

A Study on Female Teachers' Clothing Wear Practice and Wearing Sensation depending on the Variables of Construction Factors (여교사의 근무시 의복착용 실태와 구성요인에 따른 착용감)

  • Cho, Kyeong-Sook;Kweon, Soo-Ae
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.55-64
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    • 1996
  • The aim of this study is to get the basic data to design the clothing for the female teachers. In this study, we survey the practice of the wear in the spring and the fall of the 422 female teachers in primary, middle and high school, and their wearing sensation according to clothing construction factors. The results are as follows: first, the female teachers frequently wear blouse and skirt, jacket and blouse, jacket and T-shirts, cardigan and T-shirts in upper wear. Second, most female teachers had troubles in their clothing at work. They had serious troubles in writing on the blackboard, due to the improper form and. length of the sleeves, and the inconvenience of their skirt is due to the improper length, while they go up the strains. Third, the comfortable factors of the female teachers' blouse are as follows; round neck line, soutien and peter pan collar, sleeve attatched bodice with a little loose armhole, $10{\sim}20cm$ under from waist in length, front slit, and fastening bottons. In case of skirt, they perceive A-lined, flared, pleats skirt more convieniently than tight one, which are 10cm under from kneeline in length, side fastening system, back slit.

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A Study on the Shapes of the Neck and the Shoulder in Dressmaking; young wonen age group (의복원형설계를 위한 성인여성 두.견부의 형태분류 -20대 여성을 중심으로-)

  • 김희숙
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.36 no.12
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    • pp.43-54
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    • 1998
  • From the viewpoint of clothing construction, it is necessary to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck and the shouder, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, the shoulder gradient, the shape of the scapular, and the shape of the breast. In this report, factor analysis was applied to 39 items of neck & shoulder level measurements, including stature, weight, but grith, waist girth, to demonstrate the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing, and to classify the neck and shoulder level shapes. The subjects investigated were 126 women of the age 20-29. The main results are follows : 1. For factors of body form were extracted by the factor analysis. The 1st principal component can be interpreted as "size" component, the 2nd-3th principal component is "shape" component relating to neck and shoulder level, and the 4th principal component is "shoulder shape" component. 2. With regard to factor loadings, we were able to extract the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing. M16, M22, S26, S30, S34, S35, S36, C37, C38, C39.

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Comparison Research on the Ease of Fitted Dress Shirt Patterns

  • Lee, Eunhae;Park, Sanghee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.91-103
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    • 2014
  • Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

A Study of Establishment Ratio of Native Tree Transplant (자생수목 이식 성공률에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Cheol;Jo, Bu-Yeon;Choi, Song-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.43 no.2
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    • pp.23-29
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    • 2015
  • To fulfill the need for reuse indigenous tree to mitigate the elimination of nature forests due to road construction, one representative method for this reuse is to transplant them and re-establish in similar conditions. In order to investigate the transplant and establishment of indigenous tree, a correlation and regression analysis was conducted by species and tree size. Data were collected for 6 years(2008~2013) in 7 construction sites in cooperation with the Korea Expressway Corporation. Regarding the transplanted indigenous trees status, the success rate of transplant was 15,519(69%) of 22,521. The tree most transplanted was Pinus densiflora(15,562), followed by Quercus spp.(6,156), Prunus sargentii(235), and P. thunbergii(154). P. densiflora and P. thunbergii belong to the conifer group while Quercus spp., Prunus sargentii belong to the broadleaf group. As a result of a contrast test, the conifer group had a significantly lower success rate of transplant than the broadleaf group. In the relation of root collar diameter and success rate of transplant, there was the tendency that the larger the root collar diameter, the lower the success rate of transplant. This study demonstrated that there is a strong negative correlation between the two factors(r=-0.730, p>0.000). The predicted regression equation of the success rate of transplant was Y= -0.811X+88.627(X: root collar diameter, Y: success rate of transplant) and the $R^2$ value for the linear equation was 0.532.

Patterns of Cancer-Related Risk Behaviors Among Construction Workers in Hong Kong: A Latent Class Analysis Approach

  • Xia, Nan;Lam, Wendy;Tin, Pamela;Yoon, Sungwon;Zhang, Na;Zhang, Weiwei;Ma, Ke;Fielding, Richard
    • Safety and Health at Work
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.26-32
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    • 2020
  • Background: Hong Kong's construction industry currently faces a manpower crisis. Blue-collar workers are a disadvantaged group and suffer higher levels of chronic diseases, for example, cancer, than the wider population. Cancer risk factors are likely to cluster together. We documented prevalence of cancer-associated lifestyle risk behaviors and their correlates among Hong Kong construction workers. Methods: Data were collected from workers at 37 railway-related construction worksites throughout Hong Kong during May 2014. Tobacco use, alcohol consumption, unbalanced nutrition intake, and physical inactivity were included in the analysis. Latent class analysis and multivariable logistic regression were performed to identify the patterns of risk behaviors related to cancer, as well as their impact factors among construction workers in Hong Kong. Results: Overall, 1,443 workers participated. Latent class analysis identified four different behavioral classes in the sample. Fully adjusted multiple logistic regression identified age, gender, years of Hong Kong residency, ethnicity, educational level, and living status differentiated behavioral classes. Conclusion: High levels of lifestyle-related cancer-risk behaviors were found in most of the Hong Kong construction workers studied. The present study contributes to understanding how cancer-related lifestyle risk behaviors cluster among construction workers and relative impact factors of risk behaviors. It is essential to tailor health behavior interventions focused on multiple risk behaviors among different groups for further enlarging the effects on cancer prevention.

Management Guidelines on the Large Old Trees as the Natural Monuments in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggi Province through the Analysis of the Growing Environment (생육환경 분석을 통한 서울·인천·경기지역 천연기념물 노거수의 관리방안)

  • Lee, Seung Je
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.42 no.1
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    • pp.88-99
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    • 2009
  • This study was conducted to formulate management guidelines for Natural monumental old trees in Korea through survey of tree vigor and analysis of growing environments. A total of 20 old trees designated as natural monuments in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggi Province were surveyed. The biological characteristics were surveyed with 4 items of species, ages and height of trees. The surrounding environments were surveyed with 2 items of location types and surroundings. The root conditions were surveyed with 2 items of denudation and molding depth. The health conditions were surveyed with 5 items of withering rate, cavity size, bark breakaway rate, damages by blight and insects, and growing tips. The soil conditions were surveyed with 6 items of PH, organic contents, valid phosphoric acid, transposal cations(K, Ca) and soil compaction. On the basis of outcomes of these research items, mutual relations among locations, growings and soil conditions of old trees were analyzed by carring out cross tabulation, correlation, and simple and multiple regression. Management guidelines were presented searching the factors effecting on the health of the monumental old trees. On the biological characteristics, the old trees designated as natural monuments were Pinus bungeana(4 trees), Juniperus chinensis(3 trees), Ginkgo biloba(3 trees), Poncirus trifoliata(2 trees). Actinidia arguta, Wisteria floribunda, Thuja orientalis, Quercus mongolica, Sophora japonica, Fraxinus rhynchophylla, Zelkova serrata, and Pinus densiflora. The tree height ranged from 4.2 to 39.2m, and root collar rounds ranged from 1.01 to 15.2m. On the surrounding environments, The location types ; Gardens(4), historical sites(5), residental sections(3) open agricultural fields(3), mountain hills(3), and near ocean beaches(1) and stream site(1). The surroundings ; 75% denudation of roots, molded more than 10cm except 4 trees(25%). On the health conditions, 1)Withering rate ; Ginkgo biloba(20%) in Yongmoon temple, (5%) in Saki-ri, kanwha-gun, and others had no withering rate. 2) Cavity size ; all subject had $5{\sim}100cm^3$ of cavity. 3) Bark breakaway rate ; Pinus bungeana in Soosong-dong, in the shrine of Confucius, in Samchung-dong, especially high rate of cavity(5~50%) in Seoul area and in Saki-ri, Kangwha-gun were high 45% brakeaway rate. 4) Damages by blight and insects was slight due to managements. 5Growing tips ; In cases of Juniperus chinensis in Changdeok palace and SunnogDang, seoul, growing tips were 1/2, presumably cause by air pollution, and in cases of Fraxinus rhynchophylla in Paju city and Pinus densiflora in BacksaDorip-ri, Icheon city, growing tips were fine, presumably because there were no moldings. On the Soil conditions, Soil pH ranged from 5.2 to 8.3, organic matter contents from 12% to 56%, phosphorus contents from 104 to 618ppm, soil compaction ranged from 7 to 28mm( among them, Denudation was severe with 21~28mm soil compactions in cases of Pinus bungeana in Soosong -dong, Thuja orientalis in Samchung -dong, Ginkgo biloba in the shrine of Confucius and in Yongmoon temple.) Results of cross tabulation, correlation, and regression analysis showed that molding depth was the most serious factor to deteriorate the tree vigor and cambium conductivity. In addition, soil acidity, organic matter contents, disease and insect damages and cambial detachment were also related to the tree vigor. Additional research of these relationships will be needed to conduct more detailed studies. Based on the relationships between the tree vigor and growing environments, it is considered that old trees should be managed to give them more growing spaces and less abuses. Also, molded soils should be removed and further soil-molding around the tree collar should be prohibited. For the construction of systematic management and removal of harmful factors, appropriative management according to spices, persistent monitering of damaged cases and construction of management system through the accumulation of data on the relationships of soil conditions are required.