• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.153-168
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• 2023

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze's philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1064-1075
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp the change of modern space concept and analyze how to adopt and embody the change in modern fashion. The study researched wearer's costume space and analyzed space shown in supermodern fashion design by classifying it into response to non-space, allowance of wearer-based space, scientific space of architectural skill and embodiment of space image. As a study method, literature and study material of sociology, anthropology, fashion sociology and design field were referred. For picture data of supermodern fashion work, specialized book, designer, brand collection material and internet site pictures were collected and analyzed. The study result shows the following features of fashion design space embodiment corresponding to the change of supermodern environment. First, supermodern design secures closet space like pocket for portable objects and uses design space in order to provide the space for convenience of movement. Second, supermodern design creates wearer-based independent space in order to secure person's physical and mental stability in city environment. Third, supermodern design uses space scientifically from the aspect of detail and shape by applying space of architectural skill to space. Fourth, supermodern design shows aesthetic feature that embodies interpretation of space by conceptualizing space image and using fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.603-614
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• 2023

Body shape is the most influential factor in determining the quality of clothing fit. Women's body shape begins to change significantly in their mid-30s; therefore, this study aimed to classify and analyze the torso shapes of women aged 35-54 years. This study selected 200 3D body scans of women from the 8th Size Korea Survey database (2021). Using the Grasshopper algorithm developed in a previous study, 17 landmarks were automatically detected and 57 measurement values were generated. Using principal component analysis, 11 components (overall body size, upper body length, back protrusion, upper body slope, neck position, neck inclination, hip length, bust prominence, abdominal prominence, shoulder slope, and buttock prominence) were extracted. Three torso types were identified using K-means cluster analysis. The three body types were significantly different on nine component scores. Among the three torso types, Type 1 (37.5%) has the longest upper body and the flattest back and hips. Type 2 (31.0%) has the most curved back and forward upper body. Its abdomen is the flattest, and its shoulders are the most sloped. Type 3 (31.5%) has the shortest upper body, the most protruding hips, and the largest overall body size. This paper proposes two discriminant functions for identifying a new person's torso type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.92-103
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• 2023

As the body shape change which occurs after middle age is the main factor affecting the fit of ready-to-wear clothes, this study was designed to classify and analyze the torso shapes of middle-aged men. This study sorted 3D body scans of 200 men aged 40-64 from the 8th Size Korea (2021) database and extracted their 47 measurement values using the Grasshopper algorithm for automatic extraction landmarks and measurements, developed by the previous research (Ryu & Song, 2022). Eight principal components (torso length, shoulder size, overall body size, abdomen prominence, back protrusion, neck inclination, upper body slope, and hip prominence) were identified and four torso shapes were classified. Shape 1 (28.5%) exhibited the shortest torso length, the narrowest shoulders, and the most protruding back. Shape 2 (21.0%) exhibited the skinniest body and the largest backward inclination of the upper body. Hence, the back appeared to be protruding, and the abdomen looked prominent. Shape 3 (25.5%) had the largest overall body size. Thus, the abdomen looked the least protruding, and it exhibited the flattest back. Shape 4 (25.0%) had the longest torso, widest shoulders, straightest neck, and the least protruding hips. This study suggested these three discriminant functions to identify a new person's torso type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.1018-1026
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• 2005

Recent development of 3D scanner and software is regarded as a promising method of acquiring replicas from human body indirectly. It would be very helpful if we could predict the characteristics of 2D pattern from the simple parameters related to 3D shape for ordinary user. Therefore, in this study, investigation of 2D pattern of waist/abdominal area from the 3D geometrical model was conducted for the pattern development of waist nipper. To create body models and develop the surface of them, one ortho commonly used CAD/CAM program, IDEAS(UGS-plm solutions, USA) was used. As for the size of the models, the width, thickness, and circumference ranges of adult women's torso reported in National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) were used as a standard model. Seven size variations were made by changing the width of the waist only, from 19 cm to 40 cm. Therefore, simulated body models include not only the normal body but also obese body who has wider waist and abdomen width than hip width. As results, it was found that the curvature of the unfolded 2D pattern around the abdominal area decreases as the waist width increases. As the width of the waist increases more and more, so that the comparative ratios around the torso becomes in abnormal ranges, there appears inflection points and the direction of curvature was changed. 2D Patterns obtained in this research were quantified by curvature, length of the curve and angle of deflection in the reference frame box for the convenience of the actual pattern making process. It was also possible to find that the shape of patterns of abnormal body resulted in a quite interesting change in the curves of 2D pattern, which could be applied to the custom made waist nipper for obese women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.800-812
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• 2019

Secondary diseases that occur during the rehabilitation of breast cancer survivors are factors that can negatively change the physical and psychological state of the patient. The rehabilitation after treatment of breast cancer survivors is an important process to prevent cancer recurrence and increase the survival rate because a negative psychological state significantly impacts the long-term survival rate. This study identifies user requirements for the development of functional bras for mastectomy patients in Korea. Participants included 133 patients with one or more breasts removed due to breast cancer and an average age of 53.2 years (53.21 ± 7.57 years, minimum 33 years, maximum 69 years). Women in their 50s had the highest participation rate of 48.9%. Most maintained the same bra size before surgery; however, some experienced changes in bra size because they are not irritated by wounds caused by surgery. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to material when designing a functional bra because it can irritate the surgical site. Only about 41.4% of bras were worn by breast cancer patients because of price burden and lack of education, not complaints related to clothing design and wearability or body shape. Most purchases at hospitals or medical institutions require consultation with a specialist who provides information about a bra mainly at the hospital. The most important considerations when buying a breast cancer bra were size, fit and shape stability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.224-241
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• 2017

This study considered the change process for Western style shoes in Korea during the time of modernization in the 1920s to 1930s. Western style shoes were one of the items imported by foreigners since the Joseon Dynasty and had a significant impact on Korean dress code. It influence started to spread in the 1900s; however, few high level people wore Western shoes until the 1920s. The trend started to spread through newspaper advertisements and news articles after the mid 1920s. Western shoes such as modern girl and modern boy in the 1930s then entered into Korean culture. Korea under Japanese colonial rule was reorganized on a war footing in the latter half of the 1930s and the main materials for western shoes (cow leather, horse leather and sheepskin) were mobilized as materials for war production; subsequently, new materials using rubber were introduced. The representative material is 'Marine Leather (水産皮革)' and Sharkskin 'Gyoheok (鮫革)' and Whaleskin 'Gyeongpi (鯨皮).' Form is like the material has changed over time. This study also observed the flow of westernized Korean modern shoes as well as analyzed the details of materials and shape of western shoes by period. This represent basic materials to understand the legacy of western shoes in the age; in addition, systemic summary is organized by each kind, shape and materials for each style of western shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.43-47
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• 1989

The microstructural changes of nylon 6 UDY, POY and FDY were compared after free-annealing through crystallinity, birefringence, and melting behavior analyses. Free-annealing was done at various temperatures $(120^{\circ}C\;,140^{\circ}C,\;160^{\circ}C,\;180^{\circ}C,\;200^{\circ}C)$ and times (15 min., 30 min., 60 min.) using vaccum oven. Crystallinity was measured by the density gradient column technique and birefringence was measured using a Nikon polarizing microscope with a quartz wedge and Senarmont compensator. Melting behavior was investigated on the basis of DSC melting corves. Crystallinites of specimens increased as the treatment temperature and time increased. Birefringence of UDY increased after annealing and increased as the treatment temperature increased. On the other hand, those of POY and FDY decreased after annealing. Especially, the changes of crystallinity and birefringence of treated POY were particularly lower than those of treated UDY and FDY. Melting peaks of untreated UDY, POY and FDY were different in the position and the shape, but little change was seen in melting peaks in spite of increasing the annealing temperature and time. UDY and FDY showed single melting peaks in all the specimens. But POY showed double melting peaks, which means the coexistences of crystals with different thermal properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.799-813
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• 2022

The environment has increasingly attracted attention and fashion brands need to use new growth models by developing eco-friendly products, along with the drastic climate change. This study drew design guidelines from the factors of clothing disposal and reuse to propose ways to extend the longevity of clothing. It sets the design goals for the longevity extension of clothing as flexibility, originality, durability, and adjustability and drew a specific design guideline. The design methods used to achieve such goals are as follows. First, the design that is flexible in terms of physical changes needs to increase its activity and to be changeable, by applying pleats, rubber bands and elastic materials to the parts with many physical changes and movements. Second, it is necessary to reinforce the brand identity, create design that is flexible in terms of fashion and design very rare and attractive products, for the goal of original design beyond fashion. Third, it is necessary to increase the quality of clothing and improve the durability which can be decreased by washing and wearing. Fourth, it is necessary to create the design that can produce various styles, preserve the state of clothing and maintain its hygienic conditions by using removable detailed designs, shape-transformation designs and the designs which can be adjusted to climate changes and states, for the goal of adjustable design with better functionality. The findings provide ideas for fashion experts to pay more attention to the extending the longevity of clothing products and to develop eco-friendly designs and strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2012

This study researches the preferred ease of torso sloper according to body sizes and drop. For this, the eases of main body parts such as chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, biacromion length, and waist back length were analysed; in addition, the drop differences of body and pattern were explored to find out characteristics of silhouette changes. The subjects were 55 women in their early 20s (aged from 20 to 24) and individual torso block made with muslin was corrected 1-3 times by a personal fitting. There were 3 meaningful results. First, the preferred ease were individually various; however, the eases of all torso blocks should be same at the pattern making step. Second, the eases were also significantly different among body size groups and the bigger group preferred less ease at the biacromion length, waist back length, armhole-depth, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Third, the eases of chest circumference and hip circumference were significantly changed among drop groups. To change their body drop, H-shape drop adopted less ease at chest circumference and more ease at hip circumference; however, A-shape drop adopted more ease at chest circumference and less ease at hip circumference.