• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.248-260
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• 2002

본 연구는 심미적, 상징적, 감정적 제품으로 특징지워지는 의류는 구매행동에 있어서 의류소비 과정에서 경험하는 느낌은 의사결정에 중요한 영향을 미칠 것이라는 가정하에 인지적 요소와 아울러 감정적 요소도 소비자 행동연구에 포함되어야함을 주장하고자 시도되었다. 이를 위하여 본 연구는 최근 상징적 제품으로 소비자들 사이에 커다란 호응을 얻고 있는 유명브랜드 의류를 중심으로 하여 1) 여대생들의 유명브랜드 의류구매행동에 영향을 미치는 인지적 측면과 의복착용 시 경험하는 감정적 측면의 내용을 알아보고, 2) 이 두 요인의 유명브랜드 의류구매의도 예측력을 파악함으로써 의류소비자행동연구에서 소비감정에 대한 연구의 중요성을 부각시키고자 하였다. 이러한 목적을 위하여 본 연구는 덕성여자대학교 여대생들을 대상으로 설문지법을 통하여 자료를 수집하여 요인분석, t-test 및 회귀분석을 하였다. 분석결과는 다음과 같다. 1 여대생들의 유명브랜드에 대한 평가기준(인지적)은 디자인/브랜드 명성, 의복의 구성적 측면 그리고 실용성의 3차원으로 분류되었다. 2. 유명브랜드 구매의도집단은 비구매의도집단에 비하여 유명브랜드 의류에 대해 전반적으로 좀더 호의적인 태도를 갖고 있으며 특히 브랜드 명성과 스타일에 좀 더 긍정적 태도를 갖고 있다. 3. 여대생들의 유명브랜드 의류 착용 시 경험하는 느낌들은 즐거움/자신감, 능동적인, 후회의 3차원으로 밝혔다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.549-561
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to survey and analyze the age classification of women customers as a target market and sizes on a label that were actually produced by each brand in Korean national brands ; they were classified into size for bodice and bottom, and compared with the distribution of national data of women's body measurement. They were analyzed and classified by brand groups of 'miss', 'missy', 'Mrs.'and 'madam', The results were ; 1) It was found that recent products for ready-made for women's clothes tend to be designed with target to the measured ages classified by the range of five or ten years. The main practice was that for 'miss'brand group the age range was of five years, and for 'missy'brand group, ten years. And for 'Mrs'and 'madam'brand groups, it was of 15 or 20 years. So that, it is necessary to design their clothes based on their features of body considering the intervals of age. 2) 'Mrs'and 'madam'groups were most remarkable for their distribution into a vast range of sizes for three control dimensions and waist girth size when compared to 'miss'and 'missy'groups. The distribution of brand size had no relation with that of body measurement, and in particular, none was produced for short height size between 145 and 150 ㎝. For tall height size between 175 and 180 ㎝, many brand sizes were distributed while body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement as a result that the larger the bust girth in such cases over 160 ㎝, the larger the size of hip girth. Even as for the height 155 and 160 ㎝ in which body measurement is concentrated, there were many problems because while sizes of 'large'bust girth and 'small'hip girth had a large distribution, their clothes were not produced.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2001

Database marketing is a series of marketing activities based on the customer database for increasing the customer's life-time value. In this thesis. we applied database marketing to the sales promotional strategies of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes to activate wearing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. To achieve this goal, we surveyed the consciousness of wearing and purchases for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. and extract information that can be utilized in the sales promotional strategies. According to the result, the proposed sales promotional strategies for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are summarized as follows : (1) Useful information for the customer should be stored in the database and utilized in the marketing. (2) It is necessary to shorten the cycle of repeated purchases by emphasizing daily-life clothing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes especially for the aged 20-40. (3) Since Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are usually weared as a ceremonial clothes in the fall, direct mail, fashion show, and advertising in the mass media should be concentrated on this season. (4) Value-added marketing should be derived by cross-selling of items harmonized with Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. (5) To guarantee fixed customers and increased usage of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, - give point score, discount, or selling on an installment basis for the customers who use credit cards or department cards. - select privileged customers by analyzing purchase history and provide multiple services for these customers. - let the customers rent Casual Korean Traditional Clothes in an appropriate cost, and make customer cards for the construction of elaborated customer database. (6) To increase the acknowledgement of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, not only Persistent publicity, but also fashion show, visual merchandising, and advertisement in mass media should be conducted as well.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.665-680
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to develop the construction process of orthopedic compression garments (OCG) for balancing of the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength to prevent low back pain. One male subject having low back pain was involved for investigating of the lumbar muscle power. EMG (Telemyo DTS2, Noraxon, U.S.A) was measured with/ without 3 types of waist assistant belt around the waist area of the subject. Based on the electromyogram value of left and right body, OCG were constructed as follows. Firstly, stretchable t-shirts type with supportive waist belt was selected for the convenience of wearing and laundering the OCG. The design lines of the front and back waist parts were created depending on the anatomy of the torso. Secondly, 3D pattern was developed using 3D Clo, RapidForm XOR, 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD program to increase the fit of the OCG. Finally, stretchable power-net was layered as linings in two ways, a single lining and double layered linings, and evaluated measuring lumbar muscle EMG by five subjects with low back pain. As the results, they were effective to balance the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength. Also the OCG with the double layered power-net lining was superior to the one layered lining in terms of fit and comfort.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the $17^{th}$ century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the $15^{th}$ century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the $16^{th}$ century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early $17^{th}$ century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later $17^{th}$ century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in $17^{th}$ century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.