• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of Chanel bags by its type and shape, material, color, pattern, decorations in order to give information about foundation of the development of Korean fashion brand handbags and help suggest predict future handbag trends. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. For the documentary research, mainly previous researches and fashion related data were used. For the demonstrative research, the total of 288 design photos of Chanel bag were selected from 2001 S/S season to 2008 F/W season fashion collections of firstview.com., style.com., and mode et mode. The results of this study are as follows; First, type and shape of bags are clutch(30%), flap(25%), shoulder(25%), others(10%), tote(5%), hobo(5%). Second, the material data shows that leather(46%), mixed(18%), fabric(17%), synthetics (10%), patent(3%), others(3%), and suede(2%). Third, the patterns are geometrical(27%), solid(25%), combination(24%), symbolic(11%), abstract(11%), nature(2%). Fourth, the colors are largely monochrome(73%) and multicolor(27%). In case of monochrome, achromatic color(50%) is more than chromatic color(23%). The chromatic color is consisted of YR(9%), Y(9%), R(5%), RP(4%), PB(2%), P(1%), GY(0.5%), BG(0.5%). The multicolor is consisted of similar coloration(12%), contrast coloration(10%), and accent coloration(5%). Fifth, the decoration data shows that metallic(53%), plain(23%), combination(22%), and handcrafted(1%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.409-424
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• 2008

This study intends to analyze T-shirt designs, particularly in connection with pop art. 444 pieces of T-shirts which conveyed the pop art spirits of well-known designers were selected for five years from 2001 to 2005, through fashion magazines(Collection: Dong-ah TV, Collezioni: Italy). The findings are as follows. As for formative characteristics of pop art in T-shirts, previous studies were analyzed to set classifications criteria such as popularization of images, eroticism, lettering and graffiti, assemblage. The design factor of the image popularization includes everyday images, cartoon, celebrities, and caricature. Everyday images ranked first followed by cartoon, caricature and celebrities. The design factor of eroticism ranges from the see-through look, partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and to printing of sexy images. The see-through look was ranked first, followed by partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and printing of sexy images. The design factor of lettering and graffiti encompasses letters, numbers, symbols and logos. Adoption of letters, numbers or symbols was ranked first, followed by brand logos and graffiti. The design factor of Assemblage is closely related to a three-dimensional effect. Varied expressions are possible: combination of two different textiles and fusion of textile and non-textile. Combination of two different textiles are higher than fusion of textile and non-textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1055-1065
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• 2002

The specific objectives of the survey were as follows: 1) to survey the knit wear purchasing behavior of the women in their twentieth and thirtieth, 2) to investigate the popular design, color, pattern and material, 3) to analyze the difference of knit wear purchasing behavior and preference. The data was on the base of the results of 321 pcs survey reports. The analysis methods was Means, Percentage, Frequencies, t-test and One-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Most women were purchasing knit wear for combination with having other clothes. They were satisfied for design, color, activity and quality, but not for size changing after washing, keeping problems and raising of pilling. They liked simple or classic design, mono or pastel color, and no or simple skip pattern, check pattern. 2) The Single women were more purchasing knit wear by impulse for soft and easy handling, combination with other clothes, meet fashion trend than married women. And the women in their twentieth were get more informations for knit wear from mess media and displayed shop than the women in their thirtieth.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• Elastomers and Composites
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.197-204
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• 2022

Recently, the demand has increased for protective clothing materials capable of shielding the wearer from bullets, fragment bullets, knives, and swords. It is therefore necessary to develop light and soft protective clothing materials with excellent wearability and mobility. To this end, research is being conducted on hybrid design methods for various highly functional materials, such as carbon nanotube (CNT) sheets, which are well known for their low weight and excellent strength. In this study, a hybrid protective material using CNT sheets was developed and its performance was evaluated. The material design incorporated a bonding method that used a binder for interlayer combination between the CNT sheets. Four types of binders were selected according to their characteristics and impregnated within CNT sheets, followed by further combination with aramid fabric to produce the hybrid protective material. After applying the binder, the tensile strength increased significantly, especially with the phenoxy binder, which has rigid characteristics. However, as the molecular weight of the phenoxy binder increased, the adhesive force and strength decreased. On the other hand, when a 25% lightweight-design and high-molecular-weight phenoxy binder were applied, the backface signature (BFS) decreased by 6.2 mm. When the CNT sheet was placed in the middle of the aramid fabric, the BFS was the lowest. In a stab resistance test, the penetration depth was the largest when the CNT sheet was in the middle layer. As the binder was applied, the stab resistance improvement against the P1 blade was most effective.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2011

Despite the recession that has affected people's consumption of clothing, the 'Gold Kids' market shows steady growth. This study analyzed the characteristics of components that make up infant and children's wear brands. Firstly, this study found the linguistic features of infant and children's clothing brands. Most brand names have common characteristics such as idiomatic expressions, combination and separation of vocabulary, and more than 6 syllables. Also, when they formative brand quality, they frequently used words like 'girl', 'kid' and 'baby' to clarify the category of the brand product. Also it is meant to present a clear brand concept to the target consumer to offer their brand information and product characteristics. Moreover, English is widely used in the brand names, and they used appropriate symbol graphics that fit the titles and qualities of the brands. Second, to strengthen their brand identity and inherent concepts, infant and children's clothing brands normally use their own particular brand colors wich makes special and strong visual impressions on the target consumer. Also, they mainly use applied sans serif typeface showing the softer brand quality. Brand logos have different visual expressions depending on their brand value and the target consumer. The word type of the logos presents clear brand identity and information to the target consumer. Through the study, we found that infant and children's clothing brands tend to use written brand names for the logo type more than graphic symbol logo patterns. This indicates that infant and children's clothing brands tend to emphasize information transfer rather than visual graphic symbols when they organize brand logos.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.70-83
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• 2014

This study was done to provide the basic data for improving the sizing system for infants and children's clothing. The 97 brands were surveyed through market research and on-line searching. Size and body measurements were analyzed according to the content of nominal size, type of market, national and foreign brands, and meaning of reference size. The results are as follows: 1. The meaning of nominal sizes was categorized as five cases: the size based on body measurements, the size based on age, the meaningless size, letter cord and combination of 2 out of 4 cases above. The nominal size based on height was most observed, and the meaningless nominal size was second. The meaningless nominal size can cause confusion when consumer buys clothing. 2. The department stores mainly used the nominal size based on body measurements, but the Internet shopping malls largely used the meaningless nominal size. 3. Both national brands and foreign brands mainly used the nominal size based on height. But national brands largely used the different nominal sizes. 4. 41 brands indicated body measurements as reference size and 26 brands indicated product measurements as reference size. Therefore consumers tended to confuse the body measurements with the product measurement.