Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.
The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.
The emergence of pop art in the 1960s exerted a profound impact on integrating art into the real lives of the general public, which continues in the current area of culture of post-industrial society. Thus, this study aims to attempt the popularization and modernization of Korean images by applying the concept of pop art to the development of a national symbolic image. This study utilized Mugunghwa, Taegeukgi, and the Great Seal, which are national symbolic images that establish the identity of Korea through differentiation, universality, and visual formativeness. It then proceeded with the development of neo-pop art motives and patterns using national symbolic images from the standpoint of symbolism, mix-match, and repetitiveness from among the characteristics of neo-pop art. This study carried out pattern design by departmentalizing each characteristic according to the standpoint of neo-pop art through scribbles composed of the following: Signs, pictograms, and childlike characters; drawing simplification for symbolism; a mix of the East and the West; a mix of subfashion and subculture for mix-match; the repetition of lines, characters, and icons; and the exaggeration and grotesqueness of characters and icons for repetitiveness. This study is expected to serve as momentum for raising the cultural value of Korea and for the development of a pattern design capable of achieving worldwide competitiveness through the combination of the permanence and continuity of national symbols with the popular universality of pop art.
Though old generation criticizes on costume play that it is accepted by young generation without any criticism, it is gaining popularity and is settled with unique Korean characteristics. The study is to understand the characteristics of costume play and investigate on the attitude of costume players enjoying it. For this study, a survey was conducted on costume players who order tailor-made costumes or rent them by using references, existing papers and internet sites. The results are as follows. 1.37% of costume players live in Seoul and Gyeonggi area, 37% in Gyeongsang-do and Busan with 21% in other areas. Two areas shows higher rate than any other regions, as Seoul Comic and Busan Comic are held regularly and there are faster exchange with Japanese culture in these areas with enough money 2. Among costume players, female accounts for 73.7% with 26.3% male. It shows that female likes costume play more than male. It is because woman responds actively to what she likes than man does. The number of male is steadily increasing. By age, high school student is 40%, middle school student is 36%, older than 20 is 16% with 3% of elementary school student. 3.61% of them like the reproduction of character costumes, 14.7% like Pancos and another 14.7% likethe reproduction of character costumes and creation. 69.5% participates in costume play both in groups and individuals, 26.3% in groups and 4.2% in individuals. 45.3% participates in comic more than 8 times in a yew, 43.2%, 1-2 times and 11.6%, 3-4 times. Mostly they want $50,000{\sim}80,000$ won costume. 4. on the criticism of old generation that costume play is nothing but the imitation of Japanese culture, 87.4% of the respondents answered 'absolutely not' They think costume play is one of their favorite cultures. 5. on the parents response to costumeplay, 87% of the respondents answered 'Ethey understand', 13% said 'they cannot understand and dissent'. The respondents said costume play didn't affect their school records with 25% respondents who said they got better grades.
Two hundreds of female aged 19 years old and up were recruited to evaluate the postural changes and bilateral variation of asymmetry over age. To find out the differences among the age group, subjects were classified into 5 groups, early young age(19-29), late young age(30-39), early middle age(40-49), late middle age(50-59), and old age(60-). 35 body measurements were taken by the 3-D body scanner which allowed us to take measurements which cannot be measured using traditional methods, including the shape of a cross section, slice area surface are, and volume. Bilateral variations were observed as a function of age; Depth of scapular point level, scapular point to center back, and blade angle. Postural change of anterior cervical angle, upper anterior thoracic angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, posterior cervical angle, and center back/center front ratio were also exhibited. In each measurements, subjects were classified into normal, and abnormal group. Percentiles of abnormal in shoulder line angle, blade angle, neck point $\∼$ acromial point $\∼$ scapular point, posterior cervical angle, and upper posterior thoracic angle were increased over age group. The upper body of lateral view was classified into 3 types of posture based on the previous research; straight, erect(leaning back), and stooped(bent forward). The percentiles of subjects who have straight postures were decreased as a function of age, but those of stooped postures were increased. Subjects who have erect postures did not so. The stooped posture group shows the big cervical fossa angle, anterior cervical angle, posterior cervical angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, and the small upper anterior thoracic angle comparing to the straight and erect posture group. These results could be apply for clothing construction reflecting the changes in back, shoulder, neck, and the bilateral asymmetry according to the target age group.
The purpose of this study was to develop the construction process of orthopedic compression garments (OCG) for balancing of the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength to prevent low back pain. One male subject having low back pain was involved for investigating of the lumbar muscle power. EMG (Telemyo DTS2, Noraxon, U.S.A) was measured with/ without 3 types of waist assistant belt around the waist area of the subject. Based on the electromyogram value of left and right body, OCG were constructed as follows. Firstly, stretchable t-shirts type with supportive waist belt was selected for the convenience of wearing and laundering the OCG. The design lines of the front and back waist parts were created depending on the anatomy of the torso. Secondly, 3D pattern was developed using 3D Clo, RapidForm XOR, 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD program to increase the fit of the OCG. Finally, stretchable power-net was layered as linings in two ways, a single lining and double layered linings, and evaluated measuring lumbar muscle EMG by five subjects with low back pain. As the results, they were effective to balance the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength. Also the OCG with the double layered power-net lining was superior to the one layered lining in terms of fit and comfort.
Phase change material-related patents filed at Korea Institute of Patent Information(KIPI) and United States Patent and Trademark Office(USPTO) were analyzed for understanding the PCM's technological level of Korea and providing the information for establishing the research development policy concerned with high technology fibers. Patent data from 1980 to 2005 collected from KIPI and USPTO internet sites were examined using the number of patents and share of assignees in patents. The contents of patent were classified according to IPC(International Patent Classification) and assignees were divided into individual and firm/public body. The results of comparing total number of patents in USA with that in Korea showed USA had as 2.3 times as Korea had. The number of patents of USA had increased steadily since 1980 whereas that of Korea sharply since 2001. The number of patents of Korea from 2001 to 2005 was more than that of USA. USA was specialized in fundamental technology and Korea was specialized in application area with PCM. Assignees who had the most patents were firms and the next were individuals. Assignees who applied for several patents were more in USA than in Korea and patent application numbers per the assignees were higher for USA.
In this study, we developed honeycomb pads using foam and polymer gel and verified the impact protection performance of pads for the development of a fall protection pants for elderly women aged 65 and over who have a high risk of fracture due to falls. The results are as follows; In the first experiment, the impact protection performance was evaluated for four honeycomb pad samples (CR foam, EPDM foam, hardness 15 polymer gel, and hardness 30 polymer gel) manufactured to a thickness of 5 mm using a single material. When the force of about 10757N was applied to the specimens, all four pads reduced the impact force to 3100N or less. Polymer gels showed better protection than foam materials. In the second experiment, the thickness of the protective pad was set to 8 mm in order to improve the shock absorbing performance of the protective pad. As a result of evaluating the impact protection performance of the foam single pad and foam gel composite pad, the impact absorbing performance of the foam single pad was better. Finally, four kinds of protection pads were made by assigning the foam single pad and the foam gel composite pad to pants type and underwear type respectively. The pad thickness of the main protection area was set to 8 mm to enhance the protection, and gradually decreased to 5mm and 3mm toward the edge to improve the appearance and fit.
The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.
The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.
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