• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2013

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.598-607
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• 2008

Bast fibers were applied for various usages from fabrics to household care products long time ago. In this study, we investigated the physical characteristrus of water retted & chemically rotted fibers of Yucca, New Zealand hemp, Corn, Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, and Mulberry paper that have been harvested by domestic cultivation. Water retting is more effective than chemical rotting for six kinds of plant fibers. When all fibers were rotted chemically with 1% sodium hydroxide, only Kuzu vine and Indian mallow were retted. Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Com fibers have higher tensile strength than any other fibers. The crystallinity of Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Corn was as low as 60% but Yucca, New Zealand hemp were flexible. Yucca had fewer lumina whereas New Zealand hemp more lumina in cross sectional shape. Especially com fibers have a structure like sponge, and Indian mallow had a net shape. The longitudinal section of New Zealand hemp showed smooth and long shape. Mulberry paper was proved to be short and thin, which is quite appropriate for making paper. In this study, we found that plant fibers for living material could be used for cloth materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1216-1227
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• 2002

The objective in the part H of this study was to investigate the effects of materials, sleeves, trimming, and perceivers gender on impression formation. Stimuli consisted of 13 color photographs of a female model wearing a wedding dress which were manipulated according to clothing cues. A semantic differential sale of 4 dimensions was used. These were attractiveness, neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Samples were 312 males and females. For the effect of sleeves, there were significant main effects in attractiveness, femininity, neatness, and prettiness. Three-quarters lace ruffled sleeves increased the perception of positive attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Flounced sleeves had a positive effect on the perception of neatness. Long-tight sleeves had a negative effect on the perception of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Sleeveless dresses increased the perception of negative neatness. There was an interaction effect between sleeves and the perceivers gender on neatness. For the onぉ of material, there were significant main effects in neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Solid cloth had a positive effect on the perception of neatness and negatively on prettiness. The combination of lace and solid cloth increased the perception of positive femininity and prettiness. lace had a negative effect on the perception of neatness. Satin increased the perception of negative femininity. There was an interaction effect between material and perceivers gender on prettiness. The main effect of trimmings was its effect on prettiness. Ribbons increased the perception of positive prettiness. Not having any trimmings had a negative effect on the perception of prettiness. There was an interaction effect between timings and the perceivers gender on neatness. The results of this study confirm that image perception of wedding dresses becomes different according to the materials, details, and perceiver's gender.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.52
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• pp.195-222
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• 2018

Bernard $Dadi{\acute{e}}$ expresses virtue, justice, and goodness by mixing reality and fiction through the life of the spider Kacou $Ananz{\grave{e}}$ in The Black Cloth (le Pagne noir). In Black Africa folktale, especially $Co{\hat{o}}te$ d'Ivoire, virtue, justice, and goodness are important factors. The spider's life is full of imagination and tricks that reveal a variety of lessons: i) material abundance and frustration in the 'Spider and the Tortoise', ii) an autistic life that refuses to separate from the mother in the 'Spider's Hump', iii) leaving a trace of violating the taboo on the sheep in the 'Spider's Ox', iv) the failure of a ploy by hurting others to satisfy individual desire in 'The Dowry'. These diverse stories enable us to understand human characteristics and imperfections by questioning customs of society and value of customs, reinterpreting folktale, and clarifying instructional intentions.

• Proceedings of the KAIS Fall Conference
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• 2002.11a
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• pp.297-299
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• 2002

섬유 코팅제로 널리 쓰이고 있는 액상 PVC는 무광택이면서 고무 특성을 갖고 있으나 환경오염 물질로서 최근에 사용이 제한되고 있다. 이를 대체할 수 코팅 물질로 Elastomer계열의 액상실리콘 고무를 사용했다. 본 연구의 목표는 2차 가공 없이 플라스틱 직물표면의 무광택성과 유연성을 증가시키는 것이다. 기존 액상 PVC 공정과 동일하게 진행했으며, 로울러의 압축력과 공정상의 예비경화를 이용했다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.281-295
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• 2017

This research is about the reproduction of Baekje's armor-lamellar made for the Hanseong Baekje Museum exhibition. The purpose of the research are as follows. First, to categorize Baekje armor by type based on ancient documents and the excavated relics. Second, to reproduce categorized armor that provide a visual work for use in diverse areas. Baekje armor can be examined through the ancient records and several excavated relics. The results of the research are as follows. First, Baekje armor can be categorized into four types by material: 1) brass 2) iron 3) leather 4) bone. The can also be categorized into three types by finishing a) Hyeongnyubongnyun type (the leather skin interweaves with the lamellar armor method) b) Hyeokpobongnyun type (the method which wraps around the edges of leather skin) c) leather cloth added to clothe type. Second, we reproduced metal armor, iron armor and leather armor using brass, iron and leather (but not bone). Each type of armor were made life-size for exhibition purposes. We used Hyeongnyubongnyun method, Hyeokpobongnyung method and leather cloth; in addition, reproductions were made based on the Yangdang method that connected the front and the back from both sides of the shoulders so it can be open and close at the side part.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.217-227
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• 1994

The Korean clothing industry according to historical documents has a long and deep history. We can deduce the fact that cloth in material was self reliant during the pre-historic period. Although we can not find evidence of clothing material trade from the Three Kingdom era we find active trade with Kang, Jin of China and Japan followed by the spread of Korean clothing material manufacturing skills to Japan. Meanwhile the actual progress of the clothing industry came with the manufacture of cotton stuff in the Koryo era and the official and unofficial trade which brought import and export activity to Korea. Also the manufacture of clothing material by women labor although backward as it may be can be seen as stroug evidence that women labor continuously kept up the development of Korean industry. After the Koryo dynasty trade in clothing material and other clothing items contined with other nations. In conclusion we must not think that the Korean clothing industry started active development from the Chosun dynasty. It is important that we realize this fact and looking at the continuous progress of the Korean clothing industry through historical documents from early history to the Chosun era we rightly evaluate history and be proud of this legacy and also reevaluate the wrong views held before.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.93-103
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• 2001

This Study shows local characters, meaning, value and others (kind, function, material, shape, name) on Shroud through documents and fact-finding survey. In Shroud′s kind and function, Shroud of Kwangju Area is similar with one of Youngsan-river Area, while Sumjin-river Area and Coastal Area, each has its own character due to difference of Burial Culture. In Shroud′s Material, hemp cloth, white cotton cloth and calico, have been well-used in Kwangju and Youngsan-river Area, while silk has used in Sumjin-river and Coastal Area. Shroud′s color has followed Natural color. In Shroud′s shape, Male Jeoksam, Female Trousers, Um, Myokmok, Aksoo, Bib have their local characters. They are reformed in Kwangju Area and Youngsan-river Area. Jeoksam in Coastal Area, Female Trousers in Sumjin-river Area. Um in Coastal Area and Myokmok in Sumjin-river Area, have its unique character. In Shroud′s name, Shroud has widely been called "Dead Clothes", and called "Blind Clothes", "Munnyung Clothes" some areas. In Sumjin-river Area, Summer Jacket has been failed "Deungjigae", Dango called "Ddangjungwee". In Coastal Area, Myokmok and Aksoo have been called "Face Cover" and "Hands Cover", Shroud′s local characters have been caused by Next World, which has reflected local natural environment and cultural features. Next World is so abstract that it can not be expressed well, while Reality is clearly divided into dual spaces : Real World, Next World. Comprehension on Next World, helps harmonize recent values with Shroud meaning and prevents Shroud from standardization and transformation.