• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.105-116
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• 2000

In the middle of the 20th century the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district were very similar to those of high officials. A bridegroom out on blue DanRyoung, Samo, official belt, buckskin and two cranes figured Hyoongbae which high-ranking officials wore, A bride put green Wonsam and Chonkduri on her hair, The color and cloth of Chogori, Chima and underwear showed wedding practice in those days on which a daughter-in-law should endure a hard married life. It reflects the Confucian ideas and a patriarch society. This paper studies on the substantive reason they wore the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district is not thoroughly considered in a folkloristic respect. The traditional wedding culture that a bridegroom and a bride wore a formal suit can be a good instance which showed us their desire for social status of the upper class. The wedding practices were performed in order to get rid of an omen and keep a good their fortune.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.129-138
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• 1998

Recently much attention is paid on the interest in putting Korean traditional clothes into practical use with reviewing a traditional culture. Thus, this study was made of clarifying the difference from sex and group by investigating morderns' consciousness, manner, purchasing and wearing state of Korean traditional dress. - It shows that since about the half of the person inquired doesn't wear the clothes once in a year, its frequency of wearing is very low. - The main reason for not wearing that clothes is due to its uneasiness of wearing. - In purchasing the clothes, color, tinning, quality of the clothes are important in order, and bright and luxurious colors are much favored. - About the half of the inquired possess that clothes, with most of them having about one or two dresses. - In a sort of their possession, man has Jeogori and Baji etc. and woman has only Chima, Jeogori and Sochima, or so. - It shows that while their interest in Korean traditional clothes is high, the interest in its practical wearing point of view is low. - In case of adult, interest in that clothes is relatively high in comparison with other group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.101-118
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• 1997

This research was carried out to sublimate our design with common sence so that the de-sign concept with our traditional chara-teristics can be acceptable in the world design area through re-creation works of tradition to be adoptable to modern concept. Form this survey the following could be derived. 1. in Korea designers should concern about the ration of skirt to jacket plait of Chima and string Koreum of hanbok. however they should pay more attention to string and color stripes to attract foreign customers in international market. It was found that koreans prefer the elegant and cur-vaceous design while foreigners demend edecor-ative design of Hanbok in addition to its el-egance and curvaeouseness. 2. It was also found that korean ramie fabric might be the most popular material for hanbok in Korea however silk and fine gauze might have to be used in international market. Generally it would be better to use the materials with natural and delicate feelings in Korea while the materials with gorgeous feel-ing in addition to natural and delicate feeling should be used in international market. 3, For the figures on Hanbok the embroidery figures and pictorial figures would be appropri-ate in Korea while it is necessary to develop the design with embroidery figures and gold foiled figures to satisfy the foreign customers. Accordignly it 8is required to develop the designers with figures with more elegant and gorgeous sence in both Korea and the world area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.135-151
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research the costume styles during the Silla(新羅), and Paekje dynasty[百濟] in 'Seodong tale'. In those days, costume form, color, pattern, and ornaments played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The Methodology of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in 'Seodong tale' through the antique records and tombs bequests and expressing the clothing of the appearance people in the picture. This study is about the costume styles representing the differences in social status during the Silla and Baekje dynasty in 'Seodong tale'. Sedong wore 'Heug Geon(黑巾)' and 'Yu', 'Ko(袴)'. The king of Silla, Jinpyung wore Tree and Antler-typed Diadem and 'Po(袍)' with 'GwaDae(銙帶)' and Earrings, Necklaces, Rings. The servant of Baekje wore 'Eunmhwakwansik[silver crown]' and 'Jangyu' bound the silver belt and 'Ko'. Silla Princess of the court, Seonhwa wore Feathered Trim with Conical hat, and 'Yu' bound the belt and 'SangdongChima' and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Rings. Sedong's mother's hair style was 'Eonjeunmeori' and wore 'Yu' and 'Ko'. The queen of Baeje, Seonhwa wore 'Keumhwasik[Gold crown]', and 'Po' bound the belt and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.195-208
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• 1997

1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

Using non-destructive analytical methods, we identified the material characteristics of two gold fabric artifacts excavated from the Cheongsong Sim clan (Bugeum Wonsam, Jikgeum Chima), including the artifact condition, fiber type, surface contamination, and metallic threads. We found that the artifacts were buried and had turned brown; thus, we were unable to determine their original color. The fiber type was determined to be silk from cocoons, based on scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) analyses of Amide I, II, III, and IV peaks, and color reactions Further, the FT-IR and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses identified the white and black stains as natural resin hydrolyzed substances, such as lipids and proteins, that occurred as microbial decomposition due to body decay. Finally, the XRF analyses identified the thin gold layer of the metallic yarn as gold (Au). According to the FT-IR data and the color reaction to the metallic yarn medium, the adhesive component of the medium was a product of-Amides I, II, III, and 3000 cm^-1 within Amides A and B (an animal type), respectively. Thus, the medium was identified as Hanji (Korean paper), which is made from domestically produced Broussonetia kazinoki fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.4 no.1_2
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• pp.49-56
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• 1980

Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.