• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.177-186
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• 2003

This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.840-857
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• 2017

In 1995, the costumes were restored in an unknown woman's tomb at the Jeonju Lee's family cemetery in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-Do, and there are currently nine items remaining. In this study, we first introduced these 9 relics to academia and analyzed the morphological characteristics of the costumes. We also estimated the time and person of burial compared with costumes unearthed from other burials. Jeogories (short jacket) are all four items. One of these items was unusual in shape, and the upper part of the seop (gusset) was wrinkled and shaped. This type of Jeogori appears only till the 1520s in other tombs. There are also two skirts, one of which is characterized by a superimposed pattern. The top and bottom / middle part of the skirt were rolled up, and the skirt, which was double-rolled up in this way, was first discovered. An analysis of the shape of Jeogori and skirt indicated that the person buried in the Jeonju Lee's family tomb was believed to have survived until the early 16th century. Based on these estimated periods, as a result of looking at the genealogy of Jeonju Lee's family, it was concluded that the tomb was probably a woman named Lee Geum Myeong (李金命) born in the mid-15C and died between the late 15C and the early 16C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.999-1010
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to investigate used patterns in Hanbok and to find out a classification and a characteristic of motifs. The data made use of 111 pictures constituted Gegory(a Korean jacket) and Chima(a skirt) in photographs collected in wedding magazine(Wedding 21'). The data was analyzed by frequency, contents analysis. Pattern's use or not in Hanbok and a sort, a arrangement, a way of expression of patterns using frequency Classified and characteristics of motifs were analyzed contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows. First, a sort of patterns was lots of flower motifs of the plant pattern. An arrangement of and expression of patterns used mainly a partial arrangement and embroidery expression. Second, the subjects classified using criterion of classification of a external feature, forms of expression, and simplicity/complexity of line. Third, the motifs classified into plants, an animal, geometry, abstraction, and a natural object. The plant motifs were perceived the focus of flower, a combination of a flower and a stem in the plant motifs. The subjects perceived as a simplicity/complexity of flower and a drawing line of a flower and a stem.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.101-118
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• 1997

This research was carried out to sublimate our design with common sence so that the de-sign concept with our traditional chara-teristics can be acceptable in the world design area through re-creation works of tradition to be adoptable to modern concept. Form this survey the following could be derived. 1. in Korea designers should concern about the ration of skirt to jacket plait of Chima and string Koreum of hanbok. however they should pay more attention to string and color stripes to attract foreign customers in international market. It was found that koreans prefer the elegant and cur-vaceous design while foreigners demend edecor-ative design of Hanbok in addition to its el-egance and curvaeouseness. 2. It was also found that korean ramie fabric might be the most popular material for hanbok in Korea however silk and fine gauze might have to be used in international market. Generally it would be better to use the materials with natural and delicate feelings in Korea while the materials with gorgeous feel-ing in addition to natural and delicate feeling should be used in international market. 3, For the figures on Hanbok the embroidery figures and pictorial figures would be appropri-ate in Korea while it is necessary to develop the design with embroidery figures and gold foiled figures to satisfy the foreign customers. Accordignly it 8is required to develop the designers with figures with more elegant and gorgeous sence in both Korea and the world area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1378-1385
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• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.675-683
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.