• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.67-79
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• 2016

The Oroqen (鄂伦春) traditional costume refers to what the nomadic Oroqen people used to wear before they settled into fixed communities. With very limited contact with the outside world and with limited resources, the clothing material was virtually entirely animal hide. With settlement, especially after 1996, animal hide clothing has declined among the Oroqen. As an important part of Oroqen tradition and culture, the Oroqen people keep endevoring to promote costume design through competition and exhibitions. Therefore, this paper seeks to present an insightful understanding of Oroqen culture and the formative features of their general clothing. We explored the formative features of Oroqen animal hide clothing based on an analysis of actual artifacts and literature. As a result, the characteristics of Oroqen hide clothing were found in five types - coats, trousers, hats, shoes, gloves. For the decoration, embroidery and applique were their way of decoration, and Mother Nature was their source of pattern design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.911-922
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• 2007

In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.61-77
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• 2018

The primary focus of this thesis is to look at Scythai's historical, geographical and ethnologic background in order to understand Scythai's garment types and styles as described in Scythai-related documented records, previous studies and excavated artifacts. Based upon this, another objective lies in comparing and contrasting this information with ancient Korean garments to identify what kind of relationship exists between the two. The result from this study's objectives is summarized as follows. Firstly, ancient Korean and Scythai share similarities in art work, craftwork, accessories and the like, which allows us to make a guess at the relationship between ancient Korea and Scythai of that time. Secondly, Scythai garments are based on the tight and well-fitted Caftan Yugoje, which is tightly fit to the body, as well as including garments similar to the drapery Kiton and Tunic found in ancient Greek garments, from which can be seen that the garment of culture medium passing between the East and the West had nomadic horse-riders' ethnic characteristics and Eurasian characteristics. Thirdly, ancient Korean Scythai garments were found to have homogeneity in their garment culture in that northern nomadic cultural district's Hobok-Goseupje, i.e., open-front Caftan Jeogori and pants called Sangeuihago is its basic with a triangular cone hat shape (transformed hat) and boots, which is the basis for considering that ancient Korea exchanged culture with Scythai, who once lived as active northern nomads. However, it can also be seen that ancient Korea and Scythai garments differed in form depending on region, weather, culture, custom and the like. As such, Scythai and ancient Korea have an aesthetic bond because northern nomads and Scythai exchanged their cultural traits of the times. The evidence supports this idea as it seems that the characteristics of garments that can be considered to be Scythain in style are also commonly discovered in ancient Korean garments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.39-56
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• 2008

It is a remarkable phenomenon that tattoos has been rapidly spreading among women of modern years. The extremism of feminine ornaments, and pricking and piercing of the skin seem to have deep connection with women's consciousness changing to being independent, active and aggressive. The objective of this study is to analyze the potential quality of today's women, who appears emblematically through tattoo, and to search out the whole aspect and keynote of female tattoos. The methods of research are by examining the general characteristics including concept and history, considering the type and significance of ethnic female tattoos, and then comparing with the symbolism of today's female tattoos. The sphere is limited to women's tattoos from ancient times to today's modern lift, examined from large portions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, the Americas, and Arctic regions. As a result, the following had been reflected in female tattoos in the past. First, incantation, tribe, adult age, adornment, marital status, domestic ability and sex distinction, where among others, the incantatory, ornamental symbol, and domestic sign were representatives. Second, the most popular body parts for having a tattoo were around the lips, hands and abdominal region. Third, the more harsh the environment becomes such as tropical forests, isolated islands, and polar regions, the more number of females have tatoos. Fourth, women's tattoos were much less glamorous and smaller compared to those of men, distinguishing one's sex. On the other hand, today's female tattoos can be classified as five symbols: masculinity, independence, voluptuousness, affection, and purity. These symbols contain women's mentality to pass the limit, and to overcome social inferiority. In modern society, where women must compete with met it has become necessary for women to educe their potential masculine qualities. Being violent accessories for them, tattoos became a mark of such potential. Therefore, in the future, women's interest and demand for tattoos are expected to rise in proportion to the social demand of women's force.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.42-57
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• 2016

The Tibetan people are an ethnic group that is native to Tibet who have adapted to the region's harsh climate and environment, and developed their own culture. Religion played a central role in maintaining its traditional culture and society in the history. The objective of this study is to understand Tibetan costume and religion, and examine patterns that appear on the costume to study their religious symbolism. The significance of this study lies in explaining the symbolisms of the patterns that appear on the costume in terms of cultural maintenance and change. Based on literature review, I summarized the data about Tibet's environment, history and religion, and divided the residential district into three: ${\ddot{U}}$-Tsang, Amdo, Khamba. Then, I organized each region's characteristics and clothes, and studied Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana) costumes and features of the patterns that appear on the costumes. Through combining these data, I would like to examine the religious symbolism of the costume pattern of Tibet. Buddhism is at the heart of cultural and social maintenance and change in Tibet, and the patterns shown in the costume is influenced mostly from Buddhism. The features of general Tibetan costume vary with the region and life style, but the patterns that appear on the costume are used over a wide area to represent good luck and the spread of Buddhist teachings. The costumes for religious rites vary with religious sects, but most of the patterns are commonly used. The symbolism of pattern is a form of figure that represents the human psyche and physical world. The symbolism of pattern implies meanings such as compensation or futuristic wish. First, the lucky omen normally means long life, happiness and peace, and means religious salvation in Buddhist perspective. Second, warding off evil spirits normally means avoiding misfortune, and means dignity and self-protection, and protection of Buddhadharma in Buddhist perspective.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.66-80
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• 2017

The headdress is one of the most important clothing characters in China, as it was used to distinguish the 55 minority groups in China. Each minority group has a unique headdress culture. Among the 55 minority groups, the Zang, the Yi, and the Miao focus their ethnic costumes on the headdress, and have a more distinctive headdress culture compared to be other nationality groups. The Yi is one of the minority groups that linvd in Southwest China. They usually lived in compact communities in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous region. The total population of the Yi is the sixth largest among the 55 minority groups. Modern scholars believe that the Yi people are descendants of the ancient Qiang people, which is a group that lived in Northwest China six or seven thousand years before. It is believed that the Qiang went down to the southern part of China and allied with the aboriginals in that region, and this group of people became the Yi, Due to its long history, cultural background, and the large number of people and settlements, they have produced a unique costume culture. The women's headdress culture is considered to be the one of the most important characteristics of their costume culture. There are four forming element of the Yi women's headdress, religious faith, myths, geographical distribution and customs & festivals. The first three elements play an important role in the protection and spread of headdress, while the fourth element provides potential for the modern headdress development. Because of much influence factors, more than 100 types of Yi women headdresses have developed. Depends on categories, Yi woman headdress can be divided into kerchief, hat, fascinator and other accessories wore on the hand. This study investigated the development of the Yi women's headwear, and screened and analyzed representative Yi women accessories, such as the headscarf, hat, and fascinator. This analysis will provide basic materials for further studies of Yi women's headdress or costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.758-769
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.420-430
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• 2007

Noting that there is an increasing trend of the so-called 'neo-single life style' among women these days, this research aims to make a product development for these neo-single women in this era of families of a single member by analyzing their concepts and characteristics. We payed a particular attention to the data from such sources as newspapers, magazines or the articles in the Internet. The essence of our research lies in the analysis of target market, in the suggestions in the brand planning and product development and in the designs of fashion and interior products for them. The result of this research is as follows. First, it turns out that these neo-single women enjoy a kind of multi-mixing code lifestyle rather than showing a preference for a particular brand. For this reason, we have decided to pursue a multi-concept brand fonn as a right direction for brand planning for them. Second, as for a philosophy behind the brands, we suggest a concept of 'small utopia' for neo-single women and express such as new aristocracy, happiness and pleasure. Third, we adopt 'YOU' as the name of the brand as it reflects their various life styles and characteristics. Fourth, as for the product development of F/W in 2007, we have decided on 'Minimal Natural' as it mixes up the concepts of the controlled beauty of sophistication and multi-functional elements and 'Modern Primitive' as it expresses the ethnic elements on modern images having craft factors and modern images. We have performed concrete tasks in creating images, coloring, making fabrics for each theme. Fifth, we have chosen and suggested other products that are suitable for these neo-single women who seek for multi-functional but simple kinds after surveying a wide range of products in magazines or in the Internet.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.