• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.73-90
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• 2011

Modern footwear is accepted as a fashion accessory that plays the role of a point of style, which reflects trends and makes use of individuality and stylishness, not a practical means itself. This study considers diverse types of western shoes, which had been historically popular from, and about a role in accordance with it, and grasps the occurrence background and the aesthetic characteristics in shoes type, which had initiated fashion in the historically cultural aspect. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to developing design related to modern shoes. As a result of this study, shoe styles have changed in relation to the historical situation throughout every period from medieval times to mid-modern times. Two functions of shoes, practicality and aesthetics, could be observed tendency of leading fashion in the middle of mutual control and supplementation according to social conditions, economic strength in a person of wearing shoes, social standing, and gender. Accordingly, considering that designs related to shoes are influenced by the historical conditions, continuous research on unique designs according to each era is thought to be necessary to develop shoe designs of the future.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.307-318
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• 1997

I observed the important factors of clothing transition - Changes of Korean clothing & reception of Western-style dress - through the survey of the clothing of girl students during the period of enlightenment(1900∼1945) in this study as follows. 1) Stop to use of a long hood an old-fashioned woman shawI(once used to cover th head and upper body when going out). 2) Appearance of same colored Korean costume of the upper and lower sides. 3) Appearance of a short seamless one-piece skirt with a pair of shoulder girdles. 4) Appearance of school uniform, upper white lower black-Korean costume. 5) Appearance of school uniform, Western style. 6) Appearance of sports-wear. 7) Reformation of under-wear. 8) Appearance of short hair. 9) Appearance of socks & stockings and shoes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.230-241
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify frequency of advertisement and types of advertisement by items and to analyze a primary factors were factors were reflected in the costumes by a policy of rule under the Japanese rule. Data was MaIl Shin Bo\`s advertisement connected with costumes from 1910 to 1945 years. The results are as follows : 1. The order of the advertisement\`s frequency was footwear, cosmetics, soap[, headgear, western style clothes, precious metals and so on. 2. The type of the advertisement was a format that transmits informs in all items. Cosmetics, hairdye and shampoo applied positive appeals. 3. In the military government, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 37.5% and a shoe store was the first order. A shoes and headgear were high level, because of these were essential imports and were allowded as a proper articles for a western style clothes by a civilized policy. In the political periods of civilization, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 54%. This result indicates industrial development of this period. Soap was the first order during 1924∼1933 and cosmetics was the first order during 1934∼1940. High level of the advertisement\`s frequency in these imports were reflected by a cultural policy as a link of an appeasement measure In the political periods of a racial liquidation, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 8.5% and the advertisement\`s order by items was cosmetics, a shoe store. The reason was that reflected the phases of the times that was serious by a shortage of goods and an reinforcement of wartime\`s attitudes throughout war.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.