• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.117-124
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• 2008

People have used the manner of expression "clothing" to find out and to symbolize the styles that suits one's roles, behaviors or altitudes. Moreover, the symbolic meaning of clothing is important as it reflects the culture of a time period as well at the life style of each classes of society. In the aspect in which clothing is critical data to re-examine a time period as to trace history, clothing is significant for understanding the characteristics of each time periods, and by focusing on women's wedding dress, a costume worn for one of the most essential ceremonies in one's life, this article studies how trends of each period have been symbolized through clothing. Thus, this study aims to set a foundation to understand the cultural features of a time period through the wedding ceremony. The article inquires about the hwalot to also understand its meaning during the period of its existence, and develops designs for modern wedding dresses for women. I. The wedding dress of women expressed the following meanings by using shapes, colors and patterns of the hwalot. 1) The formative art of hwalot is the ultimate beauty. 2) The wedding dress of women emphasized aesthetics. 3) The symbols praying for harmony between red and indigo, or the union of yin and yang indicates that marriage had been considered as a precious ceremony-an important matter of life. 4) The meaning of good auspice such as health, longevity, immortality, good luck and stability had been frequently used since people sought for new and eternal life. 5) The symbols of wealth and fame have been frequently used by those pursuing a wealthy life. 6) Marriage was considered as a union of families, and not a union of two individuals. II. This article presents two types of modern wedding dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.61-74
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• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.125-134
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• 2005

The Main hall of the contemporary church has been used ineffectively. Therefore the purpose of this study is to search various ways of using this space of the contemporary church, which was restricted only to worshiping purposes, and to propose this idea to the local community. This research is based on the modern theology which insists on the responsibility of the church in its local community. Data was collected through questionnaires and interviews. The subjects of this study were 360 pastors, members of churches and local residents. The interviews were carried out from october 8th. 2003. to March 29n0. 2004. The results are as follows: 1) pastors, members of churches and local residents are for the relationship between church and community. 2) Multi-functional plans of spaces in main hall are recommended to provide cultural activities such as concerts, plays, funerals and marriage ceremonies, etc. 3) In building or reconstructing a church, functions for community service and programs to maximize the use of church facilities must be considered in the plans.