• Title/Summary/Keyword: Byzantium

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A Study on Gianni Versace's Idea Source for Fashion Design (지아니 베르사체의 패션디자인 발상 연구)

  • Oh, Yun-Jeong;Kim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.8
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    • pp.18-31
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    • 2011
  • Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.

The Trade Routes and the Silk Trade along the Western Coast of the Caspian Sea from the 15th to the First Half of the 17th Century

  • MUSTAFAYEV, SHAHIN
    • Acta Via Serica
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.23-48
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    • 2018
  • The Silk Road usually implies a network of trade and communications that stretched from east to west and connected China and the countries of the Far East via Central Asia and the Middle East to the eastern Mediterranean, or through the northern coast of the Caspian Sea and the Volga basin to the Black Sea coast. However, at certain historical stages, a network of maritime and overland routes stretching from north to south, commonly called the Volga-Caspian trade route, also played a significant role in international trade and cultural contacts. The geopolitical realities of the early Middle Ages relating to the relationship of Byzantium, the Sassanid Empire, and the West Turkic Khaganate, the advance of the Arab Caliphate to the north, the spread of Islam in the Volga region, the glories and fall of the Khazar State, and the Scandinavian campaigns in the Caucasus, closely intertwined with the history of transport and communications connecting the north and south through the Volga-Caspian route. In a later era, the interests of the Mongolian Uluses, and then the political and economic aspirations of the Ottoman Empire, the Safavid State, and Russia, collided or combined on these routes. The article discusses trade contacts existing between the north and the south in the 15th and first half of the 17th century along the routes on the western coast of the Caspian Sea.

A Study on the Near East Costume (II) -Osman Turkey Costume- (근동지역의 복식연구 II -오스만 터어키(Osman Turkey)복식을 중심으로-)

  • 오춘자;박길순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.1-27
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    • 1994
  • This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

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A Study on the Change of Silhouette (Mainly on Wonen's Costume) (Silhouette의 변천(變遷)에 관(關)한 고찰(考察) - 여자(女子)의복(衣服)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Sun-Hong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.1
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    • pp.131-150
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    • 1977
  • The new sense of costume is controlled by silhouette. The sense of the times is sensitively reflected in silhouette. For we can perceive the transition of the times through silhouette it is significant to know what course of changes the western costume, which almost became the international costume today, had been going through. I began with the definition and condition of silhouette in this study of silhouette. I took a general survey of silhouette study-ing various kinds of silhouette and the relation between the material and silhouette. I sought the factors which causec the changes in costume and also studies the process of the changes The process of the costume changes is studied by the order of ancient times, mediaeval times, mordern ages and present days. I selected one representative silhouette of women's costume of each period. The darpery form of the ancient time's costume became the tunic form and the tunic form became the tight tunic form today. From this we can perceive that the Gothic period was the limitation of westrn costume. It means that the ancient times was the period of drapery, the midiaeval times was the period of transition from tunic into tight tunic and the modern ages is the period of development of tight tunic. In Egyptian period thin materials were used for costume which was worn in exposed style. In Greek period the costume had the drapery style. The Roman's magnificent costume resembled the Greek's. The mediaeval costume was formed in Byzantium where the northern Europe style of costume was mixed with the gay oriental costume. The Romanesque and Gothic period followed the Byzantine period completing the midiaeval costume. Tight tunic is developed in modern ages. Italian fashion of tight tunic was the first fashion of the modern ages. Germanic and spanish fashion came after it. As Baroque period opened the French royal costume became magnificent and added Brition fashish to it. With the commencement of the modern ages the royal fashion came to an end. Modernages became peaple's period and the costume was simplified. After the First world wav designers and fashion books appeared with the development of technology. Thus the period of fashion industry came. For the designers in 20th country competed to create new designs, the fashion was changed year by year. The simplicity and practicality are not ignored in design, arid the designers added more atristic sense to dresses.

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