• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.65-77
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• 2014

This paper is on the reproduction of kwanmo, which is worn by the dancers in Taepyeongjiak at the National Classical Music Institute, focusing on Jinhyunkwan, Pybyun, Buyongkwan. Taepyeongjiak is a performance of the court banquet called Hoeryeyeon held during the 15th year of Sejong'reign(1433). The Hoeryeyeon performances were held on January 1st and December 22nd, to strengthen the good relationship between the King and his officials. The reproduction of kwanmo worn by the dancers was reproduced for the modern performances on the basis of the literature and relic research. The results of the study are as follows. Jinhyunkwan is the kwanmo that is associated with the literature and it comes from an old Chipokwan, is confirm that liang(梁) of Chipokwan's characteristic vanished. Pybyun is kwanmo which is associated with the military, comes from Jeolpung. The incision line was formed to make the corn shape, and this became the liang(梁). Buyongkwan is corolla adorned with lotus, and is highlighted with colored string of beads. Unlike other corollas, its gilt lotus was adorned with purple-yellow braids.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.45-60
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• 2008

This study reports a court dress culture in 1719 shown in the Scene of a Royal Banquet given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang(景賢堂) of Gisagyecheop(耆社契帖). It can be summarized as follows: First, King Suk-jong(肅宗) attending a Royal Banquet for members of the Hall of Elder Statement wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, red Gollyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. The Crown Prince(王世子) also wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, black Goliyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. Second, senior statesmen(耆老臣) over the age 70 wore Sarno, Heukdallyeong with a crane rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Royal family members and officers also wore Samo, Heukdallyeong with a crane or silver pheasant rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Third, Sakum(司禁) of King's body guards wore Yungbok and Muyaebyulgam(武藝別監) wore Ja-geon and the green Jikryeong. Ui-jang-gun(儀仗軍) wore Pirip and Hongui, Haengjeon, and Unhae. Saboksikwan(司僕侍官) wore Samo, Heukdallyeong, belt, black boots, and a sword. Fourth, boy dancers(舞童) wore Buyongkwan, Kwanbok, skirt, belt, and black boots. Cheoyong-dancers(處容舞童) wore outfits in fine colors, wide pants, skirt, mask with an earring, gold colored belt, and white colored sandal. Hyeopryulrang(協律郞) wore Sarno and Heukdallyeong. Jipbak(執拍) wore Morabokdu and Noksaui, and Ak-kong(樂工) wore Whawhabokdu, Hongju-ui, Ojungdae, and Heukpiwha. Singer(歌童) wore Jajeok-dugeon, nokju-ui, and jajeokdae.