• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to examine the design of Paul Smith based on characteristics of the Britishness. Britishness formed according to the national character to encompass the lifestyles and traits of individual people through a shared natural environment and historic experiences within the national boundaries of the U.K., amid current global trends toward gigantic single market. In every season, Paul Smith is presenting various authentic tailored suits, reflecting the empirical positivism, characterized by traditional conservatism through contemporary reinterpretation, characteristic individualism through a reproduction of the sub-culture, optimistic naturalism through fabric and printing on the basis of the Britishness. This study analyzed the characteristics of the Paul Smith brand distinguished through its unique highlights of strong symbolism of the well-balanced U.K., with very individualistic and innovative ideas presenting basic and methodical research of Britishness. Additionally, the results of this study are expected to facilitate in establishing the identity of the fashion brand and exploring its direction, and it will also provide a crucial basis to seek the methods to express the identity of Korean culture in this era of globalization, setting a new course for the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.