• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.220-226
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• 2001

It is important to estimate exactly wave forces acting on various types of offshore structures under the severe environmental conditions in the ocean site. This paper presents an easy experimental method which deals with transient waves. The proposed scheme made it possible to generate breaking waves at any position in the wave tank by changing the maximum slope of the component waves. The theoretical and experimental methods were investigated by generating concentrated waves which acted on a single and multiple cylinders. The waves forces increased rapidly when the models encountered breaking waves. The theoretical results underestimates the forces due to breaking waves. Therefore, the effects due to breaking waves should be considered carefully in the design process of a structure under the influence of breaking waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.8-13
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• 2001

It is important to estimate exactly wave forces acting on various types of offshore structures under the severe environmental conditions in the ocean site. This paper presents an easy experimental method which deals with transient waves. The proposed scheme made it possible to generate breaking waves at any position in the wave tank by changing the maximum slope of the component waves. The theoretical and experimental methods were investigated by generating concentrated waves which acted on a single and multiple cylinders. The waves forces increased rapidly when the models encountered breaking waves. The theoretical results underestimates the forces due to breaking waves. Therefore, the effects due to breaking waves should be considered carefully in the design process of a structure under the influence of breaking waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 1996

Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

Directional breaking waves are generated by the component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. The generated breaking waves are classified in the incipient, single and multi breaking waves. The characteristics of directional breaking waves are investigated in terms of surface profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry. The evolution of breaking wave characteristics is analyzed in a view of focusing efficiency. It shows that the front steepness and vertical asymmetry play an important role in breaking process, while the crest rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry are nearly constant during the process. The superposition of directional components greatly enhances the focusing efficiency and it suggests that characteristics of directional breaking waves may significantly different from uni-directional ones.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.62-73
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• 1996

Numerical simulation is made of the three-dimensional wave breaking motion about a part of a floating offshore structure containing a circular cylinder mounted vertically onto a lower hull in regular periodic gravity wave generated by a numerical wave maker. TUMMAC-VIII finite-difference method is newly developed for such a problem. By use of density-function technique the three-dimensional wave breaking motion is approximately implenented in the framework of rectangular grid system. A porosity technique is devised for the implementation of the no-slip bydy boundary conditions. The generation of breaking waves by the interaction of incident waves with the structure is well simulated and interesting features of breaking waves are revealed with containing degree of quantitative and qualitative accuracy.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.439-459
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• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.227-234
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• 2012

This paper describes the remote monitoring of breaking ocean waves generated by Typhoon Nabi, whose name means butterfly in Korean, using a marine X-band radar in the Yongho Man, Busan, Korea. The basic purpose of this study is to investigate the dynamic behavior and to estimate the periods of breaking waves across the surf zone from radar image sequences. In these experiments, the land-based radar system imaged the inshore zone of three miles from the coastline to a isobath of 30 meters. The wave period and the dominant wave direction for breaking ocean waves extracted directly from radar image sequences were 157.4 meters and 298 degrees, respectively. However, the result calculated quantitatively by the continuous wavelet transform (CWT) showed that the period of breaking waves was 154.3 meters. The average difference in breaking wave periods between the value extracted by using EBRL (electronic bearing and range line) of radar and the calculated value by CWT was 3.1 meters, showing that the CWT method is also accurate. These results suggest that a marine X-band radar system is a viable method of monitoring the breaking ocean waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.178-186
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• 1992

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves are performed by superposition of different wave frequencies, faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain location. Large spilling and plunging breaking waves are generated near the expected breaking location. Wave steepness in spilling and plunging breakers significantly increases as the breaking point is approached and then decreases after breaking. Larger growth rate of the wave steepness in vigorous plunging breaking is observed. The fundamental wave frequencies in a wave group are dominant through the wave evolution, even in an intense plunging breaking event.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.96-101
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• 2004

When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.264-269
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• 2002

The wave profiles of directional breaking waves are investigated experimentally in a directional wave basin. The directional breaking waves are generated by component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. the profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry are adapted to analyze the evolution of breaking ware characteristics in a view of focusing efficiency. The generated breaking waves are classified into the incipient, single and multi breaking waves.