• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.117-136
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present a classification system of the hand-made and machine-made lace according to the configuration method and re-make the category and definition of lace to consider the emergence and development of major laces techniques. The re-made category and definition of the lace is as follows. The lace usually consists of ground and motifs, however, the techniques of netting and sprang are suitable for making ground than motif, so I think it is appropriate to exclude them from the category of the lace. Many scholars are excluded openwork embroidery fabric from the category of the lace. But, an openwork embroidery fabric is the basis of a needle point lace called true lace and is consist of motif and ground. I think it is appropriate to include it in the category of the lace. I think it is also appropriate to include in the category of the lace that the eyelet embroidery fabric which mimics the openwork embroidery fabric in the machine. Lace is redefined that a fabric with openwork decoration consists of motif and ground, constructed by a variety of ways such as plaiting, twisting, looping, knotting of threads or embroidering by hand or machine. The classification of the lace is presented as follows. Hand-made lace is classified bobbin lace, needle point lace, embroidery lace, knotted lace, crochet lace, and knitting lace. Machine-made lace is classified raschel lace, leaver lace, torchon lace, and machine-made embroidery laces which include tool lace, eyelet embroidery lace, chemical lace, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 2002

The word 'lace' comes from the Latin, lacium, meaning a knot. There are two broad categories of lace: needlepoint lace and bobbin lace. Lace has enjoyed a multitude of uses, embellishing both liturgical and domestic objects. It has also played a major role in the history of western fashion, adorning the apparel of men as well as women. Lace lappets and cap crowns, cravat ends and veils were made for those who could afford them. Before the end of the sixteen century, more complex techniques were employed. The baroque period, needlepoint lace evolved from the early simple geometric patterns of punto in aria Which enhanced ruffs, to deeply scalloped designs, often referred to as collar lace, and thence to the bold and magnificent relief effects of Venetian gros point. Through the seventeenth century is noted for the infinite variety of its cravat, collar and kerchief, most of them lace trimmed and all artfully contrived for the wearer. The type of sleeve in women's dress reaching just below the elbow, ending in ruffles of lace which was called engageantes. Sometimes the ends of a fichu or headdress decorated of lace. In the nineteenth century, empress Eugenie's love of lace resulted in a marked increase in the use of that lovely, delicate fabrication. It was lavished upon sleeves, hats, capes, and handkerchieves. Entire flounces, parasols, jackets, and shawls of lace were created by skilled lace makers of Europe. By the time this magnificent piece was created, most lace was being produced by machine. Today, the tradition of handmade lace continues, but glorious examples are no longer made. However, the techniques have been taken up and revitalized within the fiber art movement.