• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.262-269
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• 2007

Traces of ancestors in the era without letters can be found in their legacies and remains such as stone implement, earthenware, dwelling sites, etc. Petroglyph among them reflects their life and spirits as like an epic so that we can be with them through petroglyph. petroglyph is a common culture of mankind, which has been found in various places over the world. The infinite value of traditional culture has a great impact as much as it is unnecessary to more discuss about it. When a culture of a country is reproduced as a world-class product, the country can have visible profits as well as positive effects on diverse fields. The Pangudae petroglyph in Ulsan, consistion of fishery and huntihg religiong, is one of the greatest cultural legacies of the local own uniqueness, and a source and thesaurus of design development. Despite limited tools and unskilled tact, the Pangudae petroglyph Carving shows a strong vital power, which does not change by time, of a whale or a man with various methods such as line and face carving, embossed carving, etc. under a desperate and unconditional purpose, the survival. Thus, the study tries to suggest scarf designs that applies such beauty in fashion design by using the formative beauty caused by natural abrasion through the time, and the feel of lines and stony material.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.51-59
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• 2024

Qiang ethnic group is one of the fifty-six ethnic minorities in China, and Qiang embroidery, as an important achievement of Qiang's intangible cultural heritage, is the precipitation and testimony of the history and culture of the Qiang ethnic group. However, with the development of the times, traditional and ancient Qiang embroidery is facing a dilemma due to the problem of a single form of communication. Therefore, it is necessary to add new communication media for Qiang embroidery to help it spread and develop better. In this paper, we extract the core representative patterns of Qiang embroidery, use the "shape grammars" as the rules of morphological changes, and generate new decorative pattern patterns with the characteristics of Qiang embroidery by adding, deleting, mirroring, rotating, and other relevant rules of changes, and combine the new patterns with the rules of formal beauty to combine the layout, which is then applied in the design of different cultural creations and products. The new patterns are combined with the rules of formal beauty and applied in the design of different cultural and creative products. To provide a quantitative method for the digital protection of Qiang embroidery in the new era of Chinese traditional art, and also provide new ideas for the industrialization application.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 2006

This study aims to focus on clothing design's practical uses of the superior esthetic elements that can be found among the East's representations, in particular the characteristic Korean elements found in the latter part of the Chosun Era's women's Gauche and decorative personal ornamentation's moulded features. This has been the foundation for the creation of all eight pieces, and the conclusion is as follows: First of all, the Chosun Dynasty women's Gauche and ornamentation are in close relation to the general flow of society at the time. Gauche and personal ornamentation was not just a matter of beauty consciousness, but is permeated with then-mainstream society's culture, the results of an attempt to display a Korean appearance. Secondly, the desirability of the Chosun women's hair was expressed through Gauche, and through the exceptional brilliance of a diversity of embroidered color tones, braided as though creating Dare. Using this technique in clothing, a new image was created. Thirdly, the outstanding beauty of personal ornamentation's mouldings was used while creating new clothing compositions. The beauty felt through the Chosun women's personal ornamentation can also be felt through today's clothing. More than merely practical, this beauty also brings one closer to Korea and Korean past.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.122-135
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to figure out what the beauty of the modern body means and symbolizes from the aesthetic, sociocultural, and psychological perspectives and to investigate how it was formed in the modern Korean society. The data were obtained from the magazines and newspapers published from 1920 to 1939 and analyzed by qualitative content analysis. The results were as follows: First, the modern body from an aesthetic standpoint was characterized by the beauty of westernization, healthy body shape, sensuality, curvaceousness, activity, balance and harmony, and artificiality. The beauty of the modern body from a sociocultural perspective symbolized modern culture and implied the value evaluated by visual appearance. Therefore, the modern body became an object of consumption and the physical capital that gave women chances for their social success and happy marriages. The beauty of the modern body from a psychological viewpoint expressed individuality as a modern ego. Second, the formation of modern body esthetics was explained within the context of social comparison theory. The ideal body suggested by mass media was internalized as the aesthetic standard women used to create modern bodies and with which they compared their created bodies.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.18-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative beauty of metro sexual expressed on the 21C men's fashion. in 21C, metro sexual is being accepted as an object to lead the world consumption culture, and it is said to be most appropriate to the definition as a model that can determine the most modern men. Moreover, with well being life style, it shows characteristic that expresses chic sense through fashion. The results of the study were as below. 1. In recent men's wear, sensory feminine that looks young and trendy is being presented through clothes, rather than the image of men who are strong. Therefore, by wearing splendid flower print, bold color and gorgeous accessories, men send off their attractions. 2. The recent body king syndrome gave new aesthetic value on men's body. Therefore, men's body is becoming cultural icon of metro sexual as another face that shows social status and cultural taste. 3. The men's image of metro sexual that is felt from softer skin and hair than women, and well-built body is appealing more through body conscious look. Here, men's body silhouette is being sublimated aesthetically through design with various materials such as see-through and leather etc., and this is body conscious image that can be seen only in metro sexual. Like this, metro sexual fashion sense was expressed by feminine softness sometimes, and beautiful body silhouette sometimes by expressing one's sexiness enough, being away' from conceptual masculine. Therefore, the appearance of metro sexual can be understood that men's body exposure is becoming a social virtue that expresses beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1208-1218
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to examine the expressional characteristics and effects of Diabolism image that appeared in fashion illustration. The concept of evil from ancient times is arranged with more basic pain, unhappiness, breakdown, fear, ignorance, sadness, imperfection, death, disease, and ugliness than it can be understandable in modern society. However, as the concept of evil is included in sacred ground of art and is begun to understand by the ugliness of broad sense, the evil and ugliness were recognized as subordinate concepts which fertilizing beauty. Also, image characteristics of Diabolism in pop culture are taking charge roles that remove visual discordance to decadent and mysterious beauty and trying to find new beauty by presentation of bad-tasted style. The aesthetic and expressional characteristics of Diabolism in modem visual media have something in common which is classified into five shapes: Negative image, Symbolic line and color, Transformation, Devilish shape, and Fantastic image. The Diabolism expressions in fashion illustration since 1980 show the possibility of image expression as a new technical field because they differ from existing expression methods and viewpoints of beauty. Therefore, the practical use of devilish image to express excessive aesthetic sense can expand the extent of image expression.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2007

This study has investigated the stream of consciousness and the actual conditions of tattoo. A survey of 466 people has found that female prefer tattoo, and a group of age between 21 and 41 and professionals are more interested in it. Both past and present of attitude consciousness about tattoo understand it dynamic and severe. However, it is considered as a feminine these days, whereas it had been understood as a masculine image in the past, which means a decrease of symbolism by gender. Also, in comparison with the past, the current thoughts on tattoo are getting hopeful and affirmative that we could know the attitude about tattoo changes. A survey of 106 tattooists shows that most people get a temporary tattoo, and permanent, semi-permanent tattoo came next. The most preferred area were eyebrows, are, shoulder, forearm, back of hand and waist, and a main reason of getting tattoo were for beauty and ostentation. For the level of satisfaction, 70.7% of the people polled said they were satisfied with it, and male preferred a pattern of animal, geometric and plant while female preferred a pattern of plant, animal, and geometric in order. So far, by the lack of basic information and data, efficiency value of tattoo is in negative view. Thus, it would be required to enhance a level of understanding tattoo focusing on the positive side like a new life style, sense of value, sensation and emotion of contemporary people, and generalize it by providing various technical information and knowledge of beauty image effect accompanied with tattoo.