• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.147-154
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• 1999

A Numerical model is developed in order to predict cross-shore beach profile change. In this model it is assumed that sediment transport is generated by waves(bed load transport suspended load transport) and undertow which is defined as offshore directional steady flow in the surf zone. In addition wave tank experiments which reproduce storm-surge were performed. By comparing resulting profile of calculation with experiments, the applicability of this method is verified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Disaster Information Conference
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• 2015.11a
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• pp.141-143
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• 2015

본 연구는 해변의 양측에서 퇴적되고 해변 중앙에서 침식이 일어나고 있는 광안리 해수욕장에 최소 해빈폭을 최대로 하는 최적의 양빈 설계를 하고자 실시하였다. 광안리 해수욕장에 3가지 case의 양빈안을 수치 모의 시나리오로 구성하여 OneLine Shoreline Model을 적용하여 해빈폭의 시간적 변화를 모의하였으며, Cross-shore Profile Model을 적용하여 연평균 파고에 따른 전진폭과 최고 파고에 따른 침식폭을 추정하였다.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.283-296
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to analyze the short-term changes of beach and dune morphology at Hwajin beach, Korea using by terrestrial LIDAR. Based on ArcInfo as point cloud obtained through precise analyzing studying area twice (1st : Sep 1. 2010, 2nd : Oct 2nd. 2010) by terrestrial LIDAR, alteration of beach and dune was analyzed at DEM, of which cell size is about 10cm. Consequently, during the studying period, coastlines at studying area moved backward and reduced the area of coastal zone. In a section change, the north beach moved backward with more eroded beach face and the middle section of south beach moved forward with more deposited beach face. Considering all the section changes of beach at studying area, beach section during the 1st measurement period can be defined as a summer profile, and it can be explained that the temporary storm profile was formed by the strong wave created during studying period. As a result of analyzing the alteration of beach area by terrestrial LIDAR, alteration of narrow area was able to be analyzed in detail by class of 'centimeter' and the time was able to be shortened.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2003

The changes of beach profile with a natural longshore bar and beach profile with a fixed artificial bar are studied, respectively, using a numerical model. The quasi three dimensional wave-current-sediment transport model is applied with an addition of boundary condition for sediment transport on the artificial structure under water. The study shows that the natural bar adapts itself to the change of coastal physical environment by adjusting its location but the fixed artificial bar causes the formation of a second natural bar seaward of the fixed bar and scouring at the rear of the fixed bar. This study can be applied to work on the change of beach profile with submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.351-360
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• 2018

The construction of large scale harbor structures at Maengbang beach, which is located on the eastern coast of Korea, is of great concern because it may cause disastrous beach erosion in the vicinity. Therefore, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to examine the morphological changes after such construction. The water depth was scaled using the method of Van Rijn (2010), which is a well-known scale law, but the results appeared to be overestimated. The present study developed a new scale law that applies an equilibrium beach profile formula to scale the model evolution to the prototype scale. When compared with survey data observed at Maengbang beach, the proposed method showed better agreement than the method of Van Rijn (2010).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.17
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• pp.261-275
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• 1997

The objective of this paper is to develop two numerical model for predicting the wave height with set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile. Two wave models, regular wave model and random wave model, are based on the energy flux equation with the energy dissipation effects. The developed numerical models are verified by comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions that are derived under the simple conditions. The characteristics of parameters included in each model are then investigated and decided to the range of behaviour by the sensitivity analysis. For sensitivity analysis, we carried out total 46 laboratory tests. Finally, the developed numerical models are applied to the field where the wave height near the surfzone has been measured. From the applications of numerical models, it is concluded that the developed numerical models may accurately predict the wave height with the set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile.