• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.23-38
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• 2011

This research is to examine the formative of patterns and characteristics of expression in Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China and to reveal the cultural factors and characteristics of artistic expression inherent to it. As the research methodology, theoretical study was done by utilizing the preceding research data, literature data at home and abroad, photo data, and Internet data, and as the empirical research, field trip was made to Guizhou China and investigation and experiment of dyeing techniques, purchase of dyeing craftworks, photography shooting, and interviews were conducted. The results of this research showed that ancient Chinese batik began in Miao in the Jinhan era and the three types of Miao's traditional batik, i.e. Danzhai batik, Huangping batik, Anshun batik. Danzhai Miao batik obtained indigo blue white patterns through traditional production techniques and natural dyeing batik and represented Miao batik of Guizhou. In the expression of Danzhai Miao batik, based on the cultural backgrounds, the formative such as symbolic of patterns, tradition, primitive, reality, abstract, and decorative of dress designs and high dignity of artistry of creative batik patterns be found from the aspect of expressing magnanimous nationality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.23-42
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the Chinese Miao people's Batik patterns and provide data in the field of fashion design for the utilization of the traditional patterns. This study investigated and analyzed the regional characteristics of Batik dyeing, which was listed on China's national intangible cultural heritage list; Danzhai, Anshun, Huangping, and Gonghyeon. The expressive characteristics were classified into four categories: symbolism, abstraction, decorativeness, and playfulness. The results are as follows. First, symbolism can be classified into the origins of the Miao, symbols of faith, history of migration, and the symbols of status with Batik patterns from different regions, seemingly involving various symbolic implications. Due to the absence of letters, Miao people expressed their emotions and history in the design patterns. A series of developments in recent years has led to incorporating the temperament of the Miao people, history of migration, expression of emotions, and ideal hopes in Batik dyed design patterns and the symbolic functions have been significantly emphasized. Second, the decorativeness is mainly characterized by repeated patterns of the Miao Batik dyeing design. The overall patterns demonstrate design features characterized by regularization and simplification, along with a sense of rhythm with the unique arrangement of patterns. Third, the abstractness of the Batik dyeing design patterns is often found in plant and animal patterns, properly delivering new designs created by Miao women by extracting and rearranging various elements, including dots, lines, and faces shown in natural images. Fourth, playfulness is expressed by the transformation and distortion of Miao Batik patterns, and were created by applying patterns or other elements to original forms to express animal or plant patterns in a playful way.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.83-94
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• 2005

This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.531-546
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to comparatively examine techniques and expressive characteristics of batik by focusing on the work of DanZhai and that of ZhenNing Buyi. We collected 50 pieces of batik each from Miao and Buyi in Chinese GuiZhouSheng and then analyzed their colors and patterns. The findings show that most of Miao's batik had deep and soft tones, while that of Buyi most often had blackish tone since the number of dyes in the latter is higher than that in the former. Miao often used patterns expressing animals or animals and plants, while Buyi frequently used geometric ones. An examination of specific motifs demonstrated that butterflies, fish, and flowers were most often used by Miao, while dots, vortexes, lines, and lozenges were frequently utilized by Buyi. For expressive techniques, both Miao and Buyi commonly used simple stylized expression or complex expression combining stylized and geometric techniques. Maio's motifs were often decoratively expressed with delicate curves, while Buyi's motifs had simple structures, so pictures were neatly expressed with thick lines and wide and simple planes. For the composition of the motifs, incomplete symmetry between top and bottom and between left and right often appeared in Maio, while in Buyi complete symmetry was frequently shown.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.85-92
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• 2009

The objectives of the research are to explain the nature of cultural diffusion and its associated theoretical concepts, to review the nature of traditional Indonesian textiles and to focus particular attention on the origin, evolution and diffusion of motifs and patterns associated with the decoration of two important categories of Indonesian textiles: batiks and ikats. Cultural diffusion refers to the process by which cultural traits, material objects, ideas, inventions, innovations or patterns of behaviour are spread from one social or geographical context to another. Examining the decoration on traditional textiles produced across the Indonesian archipelago, certain motifs and patterns are shown to have been retained from ancient times, and others have been adopted from elsewhere. There is great cultural diversity across the archipelago and ample evidence of cultural diffusion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.121-127
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• 2012

When people are asked to described certain textiles, they frequently refer to the expressions of its properties such as attractiveness, uniqueness, shininess, robustness, comfortability, and so on. It shows how senses play important role in it. Human employs their senses when interacting with textiles, most notably visual and tactile/ haptic to absorb its expressive properties. Yet, our sensorial experiences may amplify when interacting with those of traditional textiles, such as batik, as we can entice sensations when seeing its motifs and patterns, smelling its materials, and touching its surfaces. The multi-sensorial importance of seeing, smelling, and touching in the interaction with and experience of textiles suggests that one should address senses in a systematic way when evaluating users' perception on traditional textiles. To address this issue, the paper proposes the incorporation of Kansei Engineering (KE) approach for identifying multi-sensorial experiences on the expressive properties of traditional textiles, using batik as a case of study. KE approach address person's psychological understanding when observing things in order to analyze and study the inherent relationship between person's perceptual knowledge and objects evaluated. This paper outlines the use of KE approach in correlating sensorial perceptions when experience with traditional textiles and ultimately expose users' preferences toward them. Background of KE approach on textiles will be explored and its application for the multi-sensorial investigation of traditional textiles will be discussed.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.34-49
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• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.