• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.145-160
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• 2005

On the subjects of the female adults in their 20s who love to wear jeans, the wearing reality of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants was examined while pattern comparison and the evaluation of appearance and functions were made to reach the following conclusions: 1. Wearing reality of engineered jean pants Among the examined subjects, 74.8% were found out to favor engineered jean pants. Those who have engineered jean pants turned out to pursue well-known brands more than practicality. 2. Pattern comparison analysis of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants Though similar sizes existed in pants tips and belt width, engineered jean pants showed bigger values in waist circumference, crotch circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on. There were no big differences in the front part except for the items like crotch circumference and crotch length, but engineered jean pants had bigger sizes in the rear part. Engineered jeans in the rear contained the outward curved silhouette of the legs, curved tips, and a dart design instead of a back yoke. 3. Evaluation of appearance and functions In the scores of appearance, basic jean pants were higher at 3.65 in the order of front > side > back. On the contrary, engineered jean pants were excellent in the order of side > back > front. In the items of functions, engineered jean pants were higher at 4.23 in the order of hips > thighs> waist > abdomen > knee > crotch. On the other hand, basic jean pants showed the order of knee > crotch & thighs > abdomen > hips > waist. In every movement, engineered jean pants revealed higher functionality. In particular, the bigger physical movement led to the greater functional differences between the two kinds of jean pants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.354-363
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to provide some preliminary results on application of 3D scan data of head shapes to the hat design and pattern-making. This paper defined necessary measurement items and concepts in 3-dimensional images of head shapes. And also it presented the methodology to pattern-making of 6-piece crown hat based on 3D data. It used the data of Size Korea to pick up and choose a head shape model with the average head size of Korean women in their twenties. Main results were: 1. The 3D scan data of head shape was better than the 1 dimensional measurement data. Because I could establish a hat pattern-making theory by the 3D scan data of head. 2. The 3D scan data provided the basis for conceptualization of basic measurement points and items for a better fit of hats as well as the definition of the basic hat circumference. 3. This presented a methodology for analyzing out head shape by 3D scan data, and allowed the derivation of the basic hat circumference from the maximum head circumference. 4. As the 6-piece Crown cloche hat made by this method fitted the head shape model perfectly, this methodology could suggest potential applicability to various hat design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.33-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present basic data for the standardization of the sizing system for children's wear by investigating the current production and sizing system of Korean children's wear brands. The result of conducting a survey of 20 brands show the following: first, regarding the age bracket of Korean children's wear, it ranged from 3~15 years old. Most of the brands divided up the sizes into 4 or 5 different groups. Second, the utilization of a bodice basic pattern was low during the manufacturing of a pattern, and the basic pattern had been used for the item. Third, the designation of garment sizes were done using height or height-chest measurement or height-waist measurement. Fourth, the brands used the smallest size as the basic size in most cases. Most of the brands had similar deviations for any grading deviations. In conclusion, it appears necessary to restructure the unity of size designation and the sizing system in order to establish the sizing system of children's wear, which features diverse age brackets and various body types.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.81-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.463-474
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• 2003

In this research, adult women＇s shoulder types were Classified through direct and indirect measurements to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, regression formula by shoulder types were calculated and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 66.1 to of total variance. 2. By using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and subject were classified into 5 clusters. Type 1 was the inclined shoulders, wide shoulders and passive posture. Type 2 was the front type shoulders and active posture. Type 3 was the thick shoulders and back type shoulders. Type 4 was the narrow shoulders. Type f was the drooped shoulders, thin shoulder and sway posture. 3. The body types of individuals were judged by discriminant analysis. 4. After setting 4 items such as the bust girth, posterior waist length, neck base girth and waist girth as representative items and regression formulas were presented. the superiority of the final basic bodice patterns were demonstrated by high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.75-83
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• 1995

A pregnant woman usually brings on a great change of her body line after the six month pregnant time. In particular, the abdomen is the biggest of all body parts, in the latter of her pregnance, compared with the fact of the bosom is as such for the common body line. Accordingly, we have the 10 main item to design a pregnant woman's proper pattern by the Body Volume Pre-Outline. The pregnent woman's bodice basic pattern of this study is designed loosely for hiding the change of body as the progress of pregnance, in order to be applied to a pregnant woman's pattern design variously.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.9
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• pp.57-71
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• 1999

This study was intended to find the body pattern of the middle-aged women and to make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. To analyze the body pattern of middle-aged women, the methodologies of measurement of the individual part of the body, group aged-analysis, Rohrer Index, Vervaeck Index, factor analysis, discriminant analysis, cluster analysis and girth index were used. The comparison of the twentieth to the thirtieth, the fortieth and the fiftieth showed bigger change in the thirtieth and the biggest change in the fortieth in girth. The fiftieth showed thick body pattern by increasing the depth but decreasing the girth. Body types were divided into three groups, thin, standard and fatty troupes by Rohrer index. With Rohrer Index, there was no difference for back length in three groups, but girth showed shorter in thin and standard groups but longer in fatty group.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 1981

The objective of this study is to establish a standard size for clothing construction and to develop a basic bodice pattern for Misses. 1. Seven kinds of pattern generally used in Korea were collected and compared in the aspect of items of necessary measurements and application of measurements to pattern drawing. 2. 209 girls aged 17 to 25 were measured on 22 items. The measurements were analyzed by calculation of means, standard deviations, co-variance, range, maximum, minimum, and correlation co-efficient between each item. the data were classified into four size groups according to bust size. Correlation co-efficient between each item were as follows: 1) Correlation co-efficients of bust to upper bust and waist were very high. 2) Correlation co-efficients of bust to shoulder width, across back and across chest were relatively high (r=.6385, r=.7493, r=.6344, respectively). 3) Bust had little correlation to neck and shoulder slope.