• 한국식품조리과학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.486-497
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• 2014

"반찬등속"은 19세기말부터 20세기 초에 청주에 살았던 진주 강씨 문중의 며느리인 한 여성이 한글로 쓴 반가음식 책이다. 마흔 여섯 가지 조리법 중 9가지 김치를 포함하고 있다. 본 연구는 "반찬등속"에 기록된 김치의 식문화적 의의를 조명하기 위하여 1700년대부터 1900년대 전기까지 저술된 "증보산림경제", "규합총서", "시의전서", "부인필지", "보감록", "조선무쌍신식요리제법"을 "반찬등속"과 함께 비교 분석하였다. 김치의 주재료, 고추의 사용, 젓갈 사용, 부재료 사용, 양념 등에 관하여 문헌 고찰한 결과 다음과 같이 "반찬등속" 김치의 식문화적 특징을 알 수 있었다. "반찬등속" 김치는 배추, 무, 오이를 주재료로 하는 조선후기 김치의 전형을 보여준다. "반찬등속"의 무김치, 배추짠지, 짠지 등은 젓국을 사용하지 않으며, 부재료가 단순하고 양념으로는 마늘, 생강, 파를 주로 사용하였으며 다른 향신채는 거의 쓰지 않았다. 따라서 "반찬등속" 김치는 담저류에 속하고 오늘날 청주지역 김치의 특징인 담백하고 청량한 맛을 주는 김치의 원형이라고 생각된다. "반찬등속" 김치는 젓국을 사용하지는 않았으나 생조기를 사용하는 특징을 보였다. "반찬등속" 김치에 사용된 고추는 어린 고추, 고춧잎, 다진 고추, 채친 고추, 실고추, 고춧가루 등 다양하였다. 반찬등속은 깍두기 조리법이 기록된 최초의 문헌이다. 반찬등속에는 문헌상에 처음으로 등장하는 깍두기가 두 종류 소개되었다. "반찬등속"의 오이김치는 전형적인 오이소박이와 열무를 오이 속에 넣은 특별한 외이김치가 소개되었다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2022

This is a comparative study of Byung-Kwa-Ryu (Korean rice cake and cookie) of the Chungcheon Province Area in the late Joseon Dynasty, based on 「Jusiksiui」 in the late 1800s, 「Eumsikbangmunnira」 in 1891, and 「Banchandeungsok」 in 1913. This study was also compared with the recipes of 「Suunjapbang」 of 1540, 「Eumsikdimibang」 of around 1670, 「Siuijeonseo」, and Gyuhabchongseo of the late 1800s. As for the Byung-Kwa-Ryu(Korean rice cake and cookie) introduced in the recipe book, 「Eumsikbangmunnira」 recorded the most with 18 types of rice cakes and two types of Korean sweets, followed by 「Jusiksiui. There were 14 types of rice cakes, and two types of Korean sweets. 「Banchandeungsok」 had eight types ofrice cakes and six types of Korean sweets. Yogi-tteok in 「Jusiksiui」 and 「Banchandeungsok」 were foods that could not be found in other recipes. Yakgwa and Jeungpyeon were in all three books as well as 「Eumsikdimibang」. These were also included in 「Siuijeonseo」 and were introduced to most cookbooks. The materials used and the method of making it differed for each recipe. Many studies on cookbooks have focused on the Yeongnam region so far. This study served as an opportunity to confirm the dietary life data of the Chungcheong-do region through a review of the recipe books containing food from the Chungcheong-do region. In addition, it was possible to examine the ingredients and cooking methods used in each cookbook at the time through comparative analysis with the cookbooks in the Yeongnam region.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.410-415
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• 2010

Banchandeungsok is a book written by a person who lived in the Cheongju area located in northern Chungcheong Province. The literature is regarded as a useful source for showing types of local food in the 1910s, so it was purchased by the National Folk Museum in 2007. The writer categorized dishes described in the recipe section of the book into side dishes, snacks, rice cakes, drinks, and miscellaneous. Following this, each category was distinguished by the name of the dish, the main material, the side material, and the cooking method is presented in tables. Thus, the food culture of Chungcheong Province was arranged based on the above categorized contents. The material from the product and the outside which grow spontaneously divided with the product which flows. The case which is a product the outside, went through what kind of process and could flow toward Sangshin village in Cheongju area probably, to observe tried. The area and time were clear Eumsikdimibang and Gyuhapchongseo Jusigui with comparisons. So tried to observe the time of 1910's Cheongju area culture Dietary life time and a regional feature.

• 한국식품영양학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.894-909
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• 2015

The purpose of this research aims to reveal how radish kimchi (Jong-ga) differs in Jong-ga recipes and old cookbooks. To accomplish this, old cookbooks ("Soowoonjabbang", "Jusiksiui", "Eumsikbangmunnira", "Siuejunsuh", "Banchandeungsok", and "Buinpilji") were reviewed and 8 Jong-ga recipes (Seogye Park Se-dang from the Bannam Park clan Jong-ga, Myungsukgong from the Changnyeong Jo clan Jong-ga, Nampa Park Jae-gyu from the Milyang Park clan Jong-ga, Geunggudang Kim Joong-jeung from the Gwangsan Kim clan Jong-ga, Dongchundang Song Jun-gil from the Eunjin Song clan Jong-ga, Myeongjae Yun Jung from the Papyung Yun clan Jong-ga, Daeseunggong Ryu Cha-dal from the Munhwa Ryu clan Jong-ga, Inmukjae Son Sung-jeung from the Milseong Son clan Jong-ga) from five areas were reviewed. We classified the radish kimchi into five categories, radish kimchi, Dongchimi, kkakdugi, Seokbakji and Nabak kimchi and other kimchi. According to old cookbooks, most kimchi was made with radish, cabbage, cucumber, pear, yuju, fish meat, and salt. Modern Jong-ga is made of seasoned radish, sticky rice paste, seafood, sugar, powdered pepper, fish sauce and salt. This study helps to understand notable clans' cultures via their recipes for kimchi.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.185-203
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• 2017

This research analyzed consumer culture and usage of sugar in modern times based on 12 modern popular Korean cooking books with sugar recipes. Procedures were formed via textual analysis. The outcomes of the study can be summarized in brief statements. According to "Banchandeungsok", "Booinpilj", and "Chosunmoossangsinsikyorijebeob", sugar was utilized in 34 out of 663 or 5.1% of cooked foods during the 1910s to 1920s. According to books such as "Ganpyounchosunyorijebeob", "Ililhwalyongsinyoungyangyoribeob", "Chosun's cooking of the four seasons", "Halpaengyoungoo", "Chosunyorijebeob", and "Required reading for housewife", sugar was added to 165 out of 998 or 16.5% of cooked foods during the 1930s. According to the books like "Chosunyorihak", "Chosunyoribeob", and "Woorieumsik", sugar was an ingredient in 241 out of 756 or 31.9% of cooked foods during the 1940s. Sugar depicted within the 12 modern popular Korean cooking books primarily functioned as an alternative sweetener, starch, sweet enhancer, preservative, and seasoning. Similar to illustrated sugar from modern popular Korean cooking books, sugar has continually been favored by Korean cooks starting from the 1910s with 5.1% usage, the 1930s with 16.5% usage, and the 1940s with 31.9% usage. Despite its short history, sugar's culinary importance in Korea has been on the rise ever since the early 1900s. Although sugar is an exotic spice in Korea, it has gained social, cultural, and symbolic recognition as well as practicality within Korean food culture. Thus, it has become more internalized and familiarized as an inseparable sweetness that characterizes current Korean food.