• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.67-79
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• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.