• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.15
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• pp.167-198
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• 2013

This paper explores rich and complex implications of Marcel Duchamp's Mile of String which he created for "First Papers of Surrealism," the Surrealist international exhibition in New York in 1942. Part of a larger project devoted to investigating Duchamp's role in Surrealist exhibitions and his relation to the avant-garde group, this paper focuses on Duchamp's exhibition installation in the 1942 show. Under the title of "g$\acute{e}$n$\acute{e}$rateur-arbitre" Duchamp played an important role as installation and exhibition designer in a series of major Surrealist exhibitions in the 1930's-1960's. The "First Papers of Surrealism" was held by Surrealists who exiled in New York during World War I, and Duchamp created a labyrinthine installation of string for the exhibition, which physically blocked the spectator and optically hindered his or her contemplative view. Unraveling the intricately related meanings of Mile of String as an independent work of art and an installation for a specific exhibition, I examine the work on two levels: first, how the work was situated in the context of Duchamp's oeuvre, particularly his earlier work employing string or thread; second, how and in what way the installation rendered a critique on Surrealism as a group and an avant-garde movement. More specifically, by exploring the concepts of 'pataphysics' and voluntary 'nomadism' implicated in Duchamp's work, I suggest that his Mile of String asserted a critical stance against nationalism and collective identity of Surrealism and manifested a radical individualism founded upon what he called the spirit of 'expatriation.'

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.181-192
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• 2009

Prints in the contemporary art has the radical aspects at not only to maintain the characteristic of printmaking in a field of visual image but also to fulfill and communicate a desire of the public. We can see this from the change of the printmaking forms among the alternation of diverse expression methods and media such as from the line-cut at the Renaissance to colored print process, photography, the beginning of 20th century cartoons, advertisement, art, and graphic poster. From that, we can understand the printmaking as a fluid media, not fixed, has finely accomplished its functions as an act of visual language to smoothly communicate with the individual desire and character than word or language at the complex and various cultural surface. This study is focused on that prints as an avant-garde language in popular culture. Therefore, I have examined the following two aspects. First, with focussing at the specific characters of the graphic posters, I try to define the differences between language and visual language and the effect from it to our emotional perception and behavior with the politic and economic point of view. Second, how has the printmaking art as an fine arts finely accomplished an linguistic action. These are the purpose of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.32-41
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.45
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• pp.33-54
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• 2016

This study presents a comparative analysis of the calligrammic poetic dictions shown in the poems of the French poets Guillaume Apollinaire and Paul Eluard and in those of the Korean poet Lee Sang. They were adventurers in the avant-garde movement who used experimental techniques that led to futurism, expressionism, cubism, dadaism, and surrealism. They applied a typographic technique that combined pictorial arrangements of fonts, shapes of compositions and between lines, letters of the alphabet, mathematical symbols, and graphical elements, such as circles or lines, to make up a poem that also looked like a painting. Their works, valued as visual lyric poems, break up language and combine anti-poems. They rejected traditional poetic dictions or grammar, but developed a paratactic poem that freely uses letters and symbols. Their calligrammic poetic dictions arouse dynamic images like space extension. Lee Sang's calligrams seem like abstract paintings that apply geometric symbols like those used in technical drawings. As a result, crossing the boundaries between language and pictorial art by using experimental materials and techniques, their poems deconstruct the creative standards of rational and traditional poetic dictions, creating an adventurous, expressive technique. Their calligrammic, avant-garde poems introduced a new spirit of art into both French and Korean modern poetic literature.

• Journal of The Korean Digital Architecture Interior Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.59-65
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• 2007

This study is aimed to find out the conception of planarity in Modern Architecture. Some architecture historians such as Hildebrand and Schmarsow indicated the planarity by which new idea of space in architecture was made. The characteristics of the planar was embodied and developed through the proclamation of the ideology and their works in the avant-garde art movement of Cubism and Neoplasticism. The planarity in modern architecture was embodied from various aspects -the perception of space, the pictorial art and the metaphysics- by means of imaginary plane, superposition of planes, oscillation of plane, deconstruction of mass and elimination of natural color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.