• 디자인학연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.229-242
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• 2007

일본은 전통적으로 수공예를 대단히 존중하여 뛰어난 공예기술은 대를 이어 전수되어 오고 있다. 현대 일본의 산업직물은 이러한 전통기술을 현대 과학기술과 접목하여 현대적으로 재해석하고 재조합하여 미래와 전통의 양면가치를 표현하고 있다. 이러한 신기술과 수공예의 접목은 신기술 개발이나 디자인에 있어 다양성과 독창성을 타나내고 있어 현대 산업직물의 중요한 경향으로 부각되고 있다. 본 연구는 이 경향을 주도함으로서 현대 직물산업계에서 독자적 발전을 이룩한 일본 직물산업의 발전배경을 알아보고 이 새로운 경향이 제시한 현대 직물 개념과 조형적 혁신에 대해 고찰하여 현재와 미래의 창의적 직물 개발에 기여하고자 하였다. 본 연구 결과는 다음과 같이 된다. 신기술과 수공예의 접목 경향은 1) 일본인의 전통문화 존중 의식과 선진 섬유산업에 대한 빠른 인식이 결합되어 출현하게 된 것으로, 전통 수공예는 새로운 의미와 가치를 갖게 되어 결국 직물의 사회적 역할을 확대하였다. 2) 현대 산업직물에 요구되는 고품질, 고기능, 고감도를 위해 직물의 첨단화, 예술화, 감성화를 추구함으로서 직물의 현대적 개념을 구축하였다. 3) 산업직물에 조형적 혁신을 이루어 표현의 다양화, 재료의 다양성, 재질감의 강조로 새로운 디자인 발상과 새로운 스타일의 창조를 가능하게 하였다. 이와 같이 일본은 전통과 신기술의 접목을 시도하여 세계인이 공감할 수 있는 독자적이고 수준 높은 미를 제시함으로서 미래 직물에 대한 가장 중요한 지침을 제시하고 있다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.22-44
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• 2022

일제강점기 옻칠은 나전칠기와 같은 고급 공예품 외에 산업, 건축, 군수물자의 외부 도료 등 다방면으로 활용되는 중요한 전략물자였다. 특히 전시 체제에 돌입하는 1940년대 이후 군수물자에 사용되는 옻칠 수요가 급증하면서 유통을 제한하는 전표제까지 시행하였다. 한편 일본에서는 옻칠 수요의 급증에 따라 고질적인 물량 부족을 겪고 있었고, 대안으로 19세기 후반 이후 중국산 옻칠을 수입하였다. 1910년대 이후에는 중국산 옻칠의 시장 점유율이 90%에 이르러 중국 현지 상황에 따라 일본 내 옻칠 수급이 영향을 받자 일제는 조선에서 옻칠 생산을 늘려 문제를 해결하고자 했다. 조선에서의 옻칠 증산 사업은 1910~1920년대에 각종 시험을 통해 객관적 지표가 마련되었고, 이를 기준으로 1930년대 본격적으로 사업에 착수하였다. 전국 각지에 옻나무를 식재하고 개량 채취법 강습회를 개최하였다. 일제는 조선인들에게 경제적 수익을 들어 옻칠 생산업을 장래 유망한 농가의 부업으로 홍보하였다. 각 도에서 수립한 옻칠 증산 사업은 효과를 거두었으며, 현재 국내 주요 옻칠 생산지의 기반을 마련하였다. 일제강점기 한반도 남부에서 사업을 중점적으로 추진한 곳은 강원도 원주, 충청북도 옥천, 경상남도 함양으로 현재의 생산지와 일치하였다. 일제가 조선인 농가를 대상으로 교육한 개량 채취법은 현재 한국 옻칠 채취의 주된 방식으로 자리 잡았다. 본 논문은 일제강점기 각종 기록을 통해 옻칠 증산 사업의 현황을 파악하여 근대 옻칠 공예사 연구의 공백을 메우고자 시도하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 2004

This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

• 감성과학
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.443-450
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• 2007

디자인은 창의성을 발휘해야만 하는 영역이다. 그래서 디자이너들은 끊임없이 새로운 것을 만들기 위해 노력한다. 그런 측면에서 디자인 작업의 핵심은 새롭고 창의적 것을 만들어내는 것이며, 디자인 작업 과정에서 최종 디자인 결과물에 이르기 위한 '창의적 아이디어 발상'은 디자이너가 갖추어야 할 중요한 능력 중 하나이다. 본 연구에서는 창의적인 아이디어 발상으로서 서로 다른 두 가지 실험적 방법을 제시하고자 한다. 그 중 하나는 기존에 광범위하게 사용되는 연상프로세스의 중요한 형태인 '유추적 연합'방법이며, 또 다른 하나는 형태문법과 유사하게 작동되는 '형태요소들의 재구성'방법이다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 디자이너의 창의적인 형태발상을 높일 수 있는 방법을 찾기 위하여 지면(紙面) 기반의 디자인 방법과 컴퓨터 기반의 디자인 방법을 실증적으로 제시하였으며, 두 방법 모두 아이디어 발상 측면에서 볼 때 기존의 또는 전혀 새로운 여러 요소들이 유기적으로 연합되거나 조합된다는 점에서 공통점을 찾을 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권12호
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• pp.1247-1256
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• 2012

The paper details the development of a Korean style loungewear based on traditional Korean hanbok clothing. For this, we surveyed and collected data from 3,500 adults over 20 years of age. The questions were on their preferences of hanbok for both traditional and contemporary styles as well as loungewear. The survey showed that preferences for hanbok were high for both traditional and contemporary styles. The survey also suggests how a successful mass-produced Korean style loungewear should be designed to increase its popularity. It should feature comfortably simplified silhouettes, a selection of contemporary colors from Korean symbolic colors, modernized Korean textile surface designs, and easy-to-maintain healthy fabric. Based on these results, the development direction of Korean style loungewear was set and various loungewear samples were produced. Another group of survey participants were asked to try on samples and their preferences were surveyed. At the conclusion, a version that was most preferred among the participants was obtained. We suggest one-piece style and two-piece style designs with silhouettes based on the characteristics of traditional Korean costumes. The preferred fabric for loungewear was natural and soft cotton. We suggest the necessity and effectiveness of loungewear made with environment-friendly hanji-fabric. The main colors for loungewear were selected based on survey: blue, red, white, and saekdong (color stripes). We made color combinations with the main colors then applied the textile surface designs. The traditional Korean patterns of Hangeul (Korean letters), taegeuk (yin-yang), geometric figures, and samjogo (three-legged crow) were also chosen, and then loungewear using the textile designs was developed. The results have been shown on the "Han Style Fashion Show" by Jeonju City and exhibited in the "Seoul Living Design Fair" and the "International Art & Craft Trend Fair" in COEX, Seoul.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.144-160
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• 2020

Today, the development of innovative technologies is accompanied by changes in the industrial structure and the Big Blur phenomenon, where the boundaries in various fields are blurred. The purpose of this study was to view the Big Blur phenomenon as a big paradigm shift in the 21st century and derive environmental changes and characteristics of the Korean fashion market. The research method included an analysis of the fashion brands after 2015. Through this study, we intended to establish a framework for understanding the changes in the fashion market from the perspective of Big Blur and discuss the direction of brand marketing. The research results showed the hyperlinks, connectivity, openness, homeostasis, synchronicity, mobility, interactivity, and brand experience of online and offline spaces beyond the boundaries of virtual space and offline physical spaces such as online physical and spatial viewpoints. It also showed the characteristics. The characteristics from the socio-cultural point of view were characteristic of diversity, mixture, coexistence, composability, and pluralism beyond the traditional socio-cultural and regulatory scopes. Hip hop fashion, street fashion, unisex, genderless, androgynous fashion, and kid fashion are the backbone of the Big Blur and are becoming important factors in fashion. The characteristics of the market and economic viewpoint are prosumers that play roles both as producers and consumers. It shows the extensibility of consumers as producers, the cohesiveness of producers and consumers, the cooperation, and the interconnectivity.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.81-88
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• 1998

일본의 디자인 운동은 1870년대부터 시작하여 지금까지 제4기로 구분하는데, 그 중 제 1기를 명치시대(Meiji era)개국에서 제 1차 세계대전가지로, 제 2기를 제 2차 세계대전가지, 제 3기를 제 2차 대전 직후부터 고도경제성장기 직전인 1960년까지 그리고 제 4기를 1960년 이후로 구분한다. 일본의 디자인 교육은 이러한 시대구분 속에서 2차 대전 전에는 유럽에서 시작된 갖가지 근대디자인운동, 즉 윌리엄 모리스의 미술공예운동, 독일공작연맹, 바우하우스의 영향을 받았으며, 대전 후에는 미국의 인더스트리얼 디자인의 영향을 받았다. 그러나 일찍이 서구문명을 도입한 일본은 독자적인 디자인교육을 표방하여 1940년도에는 대학에 디자인 학과를 설립하기 시작했다. 그 후 정부의 디자인 정책에 힘입어 발전을 거듭하고 있으며 거품경제 붕괴 이후 일본의 전 대학에서는 교육개혁의 바람이 크게 일고 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.573-585
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• 2021

This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.