• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to compare the constitutions comparatively among Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women and thereby, provide for some basic data helpful to the development of export apparels befitting the Chinese consumers, For this purpose, Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women aged between 17 and 24 were sampled to be subject to body measurements. The measurement data obtained were indexed for each part of the body to set a total 29 constitutional indices, which were analyzed by factor dictating the major shapes of body, Thus, based on the constructed, the differences of constitution among three groups were comparatively analyzed. The results of this study of this study can be summarized as follows; It was found through this study that Korean college women had thickest neck compared with body size and had longer lower limbs compared with stature, Moreover, their lower body was absolutely longer than the other two groups, and thus, Korean college women were found slimmest. On the other hand, Chinese college women had most voluminous chest turned over with shorter and thicker body. they were obesest. Chosunjok college women had longest upper body but shortest breast length. Their lower body was obesest, and their body was longer compared with stature. Moreover, Chosunjok college women's lower limbs were shortest, while their arm scyes were small nearest body type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.195-208
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• 1997

1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.77-94
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• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1338-1349
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• 2003

The color of apparels has the close interdependency on the skin colors of the wearers. This study was carried out to group the skin colors of Korean males into several similar skin colors and to analyze their preference colors. The skin colors were measured quantitatively and classified into several clusters that has similar hue, value and chroma with Munsell color system that is internationally used to communicate the colors. Sample size was 420 Korean males. With color spectrometer, JX-777, 4 points of the body were measured. All subjects had been shown with 40 color chips and answered their preference colors. Data were analysed by K-means Cluster analysis, Duncan test, Frequency and Chi square test using SPSS WIN 10 statistical package. Findings were as follows: 1. The skin colors of Korean males were mixed with skin colors of YR, R, and Y. 2. 420 subjects who have YR color were clustered in 3 kinds of skin color groups. 3. The average face color of total subjects was 4.81YR 5.91/4.97 in Munsell color system, 60.74 in L value, 13.71 in a value, 24.54 in b value. 136 observations out of 420 subjects were composed of Type 1: 4.50YR 6.35/4.87 and 192 observations were composed of Type 2: 4.62YR 5.86/5.12 and 92 observations were composed of Type 3: 5.67YR 5.37/4.79. 4. The average skin color of total 420 subjects was 6.26YR 6.07/4.41 and 62.33 in L value, 10.64 in a value, 23.48 in b value. The average skin color of Type 1 was 6.27YR 6.44/4.27 and of Type 2 was 6.15YR 5.91/4.49 and of Type 3 was 6.49YR 5.84/4.43 respectively. 5. 3 groups showed that the most preference color of sport$.$casual was 2.5Y 8/16 and 7.5PB 4/16 and the most preference color to their skins was 7.5PB 4/16 and 7.5YR 7/16.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.99-109
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to survey the conditions of women's wears manufacturing industries and finds out their qualitative problems and suggests the solutions to help women's wears manufacturing industries adapting themselves well to the fashion industries which is being individualized, high profiled and differentiated and thus helpes them to produce the competitive commodities through high-qualities and technological improvements. For this purpose, I had sampled the factories which located in Seoul and Kyunggido areas and produced women's apparels for domestic consumers. The questionnaires for this survey were designed by interviewing the representatives of 31 women's wears manufacturing industries, while the collected data were processed using the SAS statistical program for frequency, percentage, chi-square test, t-test. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. It was found that women's wears manufacturing industries were getting smaller scale or pettier in terms of capital, number of employees or scale of factory. 2. The number of the employees is getting decrease every year, which is posed as most serious problems of the surveyed manufacturer. Such a decrease of employees may be attributable to the fact that women's wears manufacturing industries are regarded as one of 3D businesses and therefore the employees leave their workspaces for more rewarding service industries. 3. It was found that women's wears manufacturing industries relied on more recontracts than self-productions. In 1995, 83.7% of their productions were out of recontracts, and this rate is getting increase. 4. 51.6% of the surveyed manufacturer operate by straight line system or other types of line system, while 48.4% of the remaining managed a pair system. 5. As a result of surveying the perspective of women's wears manufacturing industries into the 21 st century is as followed. 41.9% of them were optimistic, and 25.8% were pessimistic about their futures.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.125-138
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• 2007

The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.