• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.15-36
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to provide for the useful fundamental data by developing an appearl sizing system according to body types for Chinese adult female. Thus, it was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China. As a sample, 1360 female women was seleted aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China for characterization body types and development of apparel sizing system by classifying them. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), factor analysis, duncan's multiple test. The results from the study were as follows: As they are getting older, the horizontal size and length categories related to width, thickness, and circumference increased, and the height and vertical size that show the vertical size of body reduced. 1. The women in the Shanghai area had large head width, head thickness and head circumference, the categories related to the height and head, and the women in the Beijing area had larger in terms of width, circumference, length, angle and other categories. 2. Chinese Adult women's constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1 : constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2 : longistudinal body size, factor 3 : shoulder form and size, factor 4 : longistudinal upper body size, factor 5 : longistudinal under body size, factor 6 : shoulder dropping.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.104-116
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• 2004

Kanga is a type of cotton clothes with splendid patterns that East African women throw on their bodies. It first appeared in the East African shores in the mid-nineteenth century. A new style of squared handkerchiefs brought to Africa by Portuguese merchants for the first time was referred as to leso of which early designs were in a basic form of white dots on dark background. Consumers called such material by kanga as they began mentioning its craftiness and comparing its elegant nature to a sociable red rooster and graceful feathers. From the early 1990s, Swahili characters have been embroidered in designs of kanga, mainly consisted of proverbs. Kenya's kanga products are widely known and well represented whereas Tanzania makes the best use of it for political and social events. Fascinating and practical kanga has established its position as an essential part of East African cultures that is being well received as a fashion style there in these days.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.549-561
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• 2001

Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.25-30
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• 2001

In order to investigate the influence of thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangu1ar stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread and bobbin thread was about 6:1~7:1 in this experiment.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권8호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2011

This paper purports to find the characteristics of blue costumes as expressed in modern fashion. As such, we made an empirical analysis, using 436 works from 2006 S/S through 2010 F/W collections. Result indicated that modernness was emphasized by applying a minimum expressive technique to items of a simple form, and an image of simplicity was emphasized by placing focus on the rational color image of blue. Second, images of blue, such as trust, stability, and success were expressed as refined elegance through the combination of tight silhouettes, glossy and translucent materials, and indirect exposure. Third, natural image was expressed through natural silhouettes, soft or natural materials, gradation of various tones, and natural motif decorations as well as the color itself. Fourth, dynamic image was expressed by introducing fashion items, mostly worn by men only, to simple and tight forms or through the inspiration of a masculine fashion image. Fifth, abstinent image was expressed by using an image of religious apparel or symbols, covering up the body, minimizing details, and using a dark blue tone.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1347-1360
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• 2009

Historical compliance with economics in a political interchange accepts the elements of multiculturalism to develop a new field in the research with China. New research seeks to point out the characteristics of the Baekje dress style in relation to studies on East Asian fashion that observe the role and place of Baekje apparel. This study reveals the formation background of Baekje dress culture. Examined are the cognitive world of Baekje dress culture. The study reveals the form of the three Baekje Kings and royal dress.