• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.128-144
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to define the origin of name 'Watteau gown' which is controversial by analyzing a Watteau gown, represented in the paintings by Jean Antoine Watteau, an artist in the Rococo era, and clarify the shape and composition of a Watteau pleats which characterizes the Watteau gown and the morphological characteristic of the silhouette of the Watteau gown. Theoretical review and empirical research was simultaneously conducted. The theoretical review considered social backgrounds from late 17th century to early 18th century when Watteau actively worked and a background of forming the style of Fete galante. The empirical research was conducted by sampling 106 pieces of costume from Watteau's 65 paintings collected and classifying according to morphological shapes and composition. Based on this result, it is suggested that the Watteau gown was very prevalent as women's costume early in the 18th century. The Watteau gown, robe volante, robe battante, sack gown and robe a la Francaise were developed and modified from one gown which started from the same source in some connection. This study has significant meaning that it defines the origin of Watteau gown and Watteau pleats found in women's costume in the Rococo era. Furthermore this study will contribute to the practical use of costume elements of 18th century which are beautiful and artistic in aesthetics as the source of contemporary fashion.