• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.357-362
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antiaging effect in the fibroblasts by using the extracts and fractions of Nymphoides peltata for the development of new functional cosmetic materials. The anti-aging effects of the extracts and fractions of N. peltata were measured using CCD-986sk cells. Ethyl aceate (EA) fraction inhibited UVB-induced reactive oxygen species expression by more than 50%, and n-butyl alcohol (BuOH) fraction increased expression of pro-collagen mRNA by more than 50% at $25{\mu}g/mL$. In addition, EA and BuOH fractions inhibited MMP-1 protein and mRNA expression in a concentration-dependent manner, BuOH fraction inhibited MMP-1 mRNA expression by more than 40% at $10{\mu}g/mL$. Especially, the high efficacy of EA and BuOH of the N. peltata was confirmed. Therefore, the EA and BuOH of N. peltata are expected to be useful as anti-aging materials in cosmetics field.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.911-919
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• 2024

Solar UVB irradiation cause skin photoaging by inducing the high expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) to inhibit the expression of Type1 procollagen synthesis. 1-Kestose, a natural trisaccharide, has been indicated to show a cytoprotective role in UVB radiation-induced-HaCaT cells. However, few studies have confirmed the anti-aging effects. In the present study, we evaluated the anti-photoaging and pathological mechanism of 1-kestose using Human keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. The results found that 1-kestose pretreatment remarkably reduced UVB-generated reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in HaCaT cells. 1-Kestose suppressed UVB radiation-induced MMPs expressions by blocking MAPK/AP-1 and NF-κB p65 translocation. 1-Kestose pretreatment increased Type 1 procollagen gene expression levels by activating TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway. Taken together, our results demonstrate that 1-kestose may serve as a potent natural trisaccharide for inflammation and photoaging prevention.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.131-147
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• 2003

In the 21st century, the development of cosmetics is led to pursue the high functionality of cosmetics with excellent effectiveness and safety. As Cosmetic Act took effect in 2000, functional cosmetics is provided in the law. As a result, the research and development of functional cosmetics has continually increased, and the number of patent applications in functional cosmetics has also rapidly increased as a plan for preoccupying in the functional cosmetics age. Now, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in developing anti-wrinkle cosmetics among functional cosmetics, because women's desire for having young resilient skin has increased since Korea entered an aging society thanks to the advanced medical technology. The patent application trends of anti-wrinkle cosmetics at home since 2000 particularly show the rapid increase in the applications in natural plant extracts. It may be because Korean consumers preference of vegetable cosmetics has resulted in the development of raw materials based on the traditional medicine. As for the existing preparation such as Retinoid or Ascorbic acid, the patent application itself will be an essential technical element in the future because patent applications are filed in the field of a preparation of cosmetics for stabilizing ingredients, reducing skin irritability or promoting absorbance, and in the field of cosmetic formulation technology. As there are many studies on the causes of skin wrinkles, it is expected that new raw materials of cosmetics can be developed due to new mechanisms, and that the number of patent applications in new technologies will increase due to a change in the thought of cosmetics accompanied by the integration of cosmetics with biotechnology using Genetic Engineering, including the practical application of the medicine previously used far treating skin diseases to an anti-wrinkle agent and the mass production of active ingredients of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2024

Songla (Usnea diffracta Vain.) is one of the lichens belonging to the genus Usnea, and pharmacological activities such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and cardiovascular protection have been reported in previous studies, but its efficacy in skin and hair is not well known. In this study, the effect of Usnea diffracta extract (UDE) on anti-aging and dermal papilla cell proliferation was verified in vitro. As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the UDE significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 and the activity of MAPKs (ERK, p38, JNK) and AP-1 (c-Fos, c-Jun), which were increased by UVA in HDFn. In addition, the UDE significantly increased the proliferation of HFDPC and significantly increased the mRNA expression of VEGF and KGF, which are hair growth factors. Accordingly, the phosphorylation of ERK/CREB involved in hair proliferation and expression of growth factors was increased in a concentration-dependent manner. The main component represented by the main peak was separated and purified using Prep LC by concentrating the UDE, which was confirmed as diffractaic acid through NMR and Mess analysis. Isolated diffractaic acid significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 increased by UVA in HDFn and increased the proliferation of HFDPC in a concentration-dependent manner. The result suggest that UDE proved its usability as a natural cosmetic material with anti-aging and dermal papilla cell activation effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.163-171
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• 2016

Steroid hormone, glucocorticoid (GC) has strong anti-inflammatory effects by binding to glucocorticoid receptor (GR) inhibiting the expression of inflammatory genes. Therefore, agents that activate the GR have been used for the treatment of dermatitis. However, the agents have side effects such as skin barrier dysfunction and dermal atrophy, inducing skin damage as well as skin aging. It has been reported that GC is activated by 11 beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 ($11{\beta}$-HSD1) to increase the activity of the GR. This study aimed to identify natural materials that can effectively inhibit dexamethasone. We found that alpinetin isolated from Alpinia katsumadai extract has a significant effect on this. Alpinetin not only inhibited $11{\beta}$-HSD1 expression, but also suppressed the increase of phosphorylated GR and cortisol concentration. Alpinetin also recovered collagen expression in dexamethasone-treated dermal fibroblasts, and the reduction of dermal thickness in dexamethasnone-treated 3D skin model. These results suggest that alpinetin prevents skin aging induced by the increase of $11{\beta}$-HSD1 expression.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.1 s.60
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• pp.33-40
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• 2007

Astradalus membranaceus root extract (ARE) contains saponins, flavonoids, and their glycosides. Two flavonoids, calycosin and formononetin, were predominant constituents with the different amount by diverse extraction conditions. ARE showed the anti-oxidative activities, inhibited tyrosinase activity, and increased type I procollagen expression in proportion to calycosin and formononetin contents. The clinical study also showed that skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in the test group treated with a cream formulation containging 0.1% ARE compared with a group treated with a cream formulation without 0.1% ARE (p < 0.05). These results suggest that ARE may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.47-58
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• 2023

Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in microbiome cosmetics, the application of microbiome extracts in the complex efficacy as anti-aging, brightening etc. has become very important. In this study, Bifidobacterium bifidum (B. bifidum), which has excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy among the microbiome, was selected through an in vitro test using cells and 3D human skin equivalents. And the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetics containing B. bifidum was evaluated by clinical test. Thereafter, the cytotoxicity, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the of the bifida fermented filtrate were tested. An emulsion containing bifida fermented filtrate at a concentration of 5% (v/v) with no cytotoxicity and excellent efficacy was prepared with the placebo emulsion. The clinical test was conducted on a total of 21 women at 2 weeks comparing the bifida emulsion and placebo emulsion. Wrinkles around the eyes were instrumentally evaluated using Antera 3D. The wrinkle reduction rate of the Bifida emulsion group compared with the placebo emulsion group differed by 5.6%. Overall, the selection of microbiome using 3D human skin equivalents and the efficacy study of cosmetics with the microbiome extracts would be actively studied to the development of microbiome cosmetics and skin microbiome mechanisms.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.235-245
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the effects of various molecular weights (1, 10, 50, 100, 660, and 1500 kDa) of sodium hyaluronate (HA), which were prepared by enzyme hydrolysis, on the collagen synthesis, anti-inflammation and skin absorption. These HA did not significantly affect the viability of human dermal fibroblast Hs68 cells. Among them, 1500 kDa, 50 kDa HA most significantly increased collagen production by 59%, and 50% in the Hs 68 cells, respectively. Whereas 1500 and 660 kDa HA hardly pass through mouse transdermis membrane, lower molecular weights (1, 10, or 50 kDa) of HA showed time-dependent increase in skin permeation. HA of 50 kDa showed highest anti-inflammatory effects by reducing nitric oxide and tumor necrosis factor-${alpha}$ production in the RAW 264.7 cells, comparing to other HA (1, 10, and 100 kDa HA). Recently, there is no report about anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects and skin permeation of different molecular weights HA (1, 10, 50, 100, 660 and 1500 kDa), which were produced by enzyme hydrolysis. These results suggested that 50 kDa HA can be potent candidates for the development of effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agents. The results of this study demonstrated that among those HA with different molecular weights, 50 kDa HA showed highest anti-inflammatory activity, significant capability to induce collagen synthesis and high level of skin permeation.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.220-226
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• 2021

The role of particulate matter (PM) in health problems including cardiovascular diseases (CVD) and pneumonia is becoming increasingly clear. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, major components of PM, bind to aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhRs) and promote the expression of CYP1A1 through the AhR pathway in keratinocytes. Activation of AhRs in skin cells is associated with cell differentiation in keratinocytes and inflammation, resulting in dermatological lesions. Oleanolic acid, a natural component of L. lucidum, also has anti-inflammation, anticancer, and antioxidant characteristics. Previously, we found that PM10 induced the AhR signaling pathway and autophagy process in keratinocytes. Here, we investigated the effects of oleanolic acid on PM10-induced skin aging. We observed that oleanolic acid inhibits PM10-induced CYP1A1 and decreases the increase of tumor necrosis factor-alpha and interleukin 6 induced by PM10. A supernatant derived from keratinocytes cotreated with oleanolic acid and PM10 inhibited the release of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in dermal fibroblasts. Also, the AhR-mediated autophagy disruption was recovered by oleanolic acid. Thus, oleanolic acid may be a potential treatment for addressing PM10-induced skin aging.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.10
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• pp.1071-1079
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• 2019

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant and anti-aging activities of Schisandra chinensis seed fractions by adding them to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells and analyzing the suppression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). An electron-donating assay, ABTS radical scavenging assay, and hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay showed that the ethyl acetate fraction of S. chinensis seed (SCEAf) has scavenging activities. A collagenase inhibition activity assay showed that SCEAf had inhibitory effects of over 92.3% at $500{\mu}g/ml$ concentration. An MTT assay was performed to determine the cytotoxicity of SCEAf in HaCaT cells and the results showed that SCEAf increased cellular viability in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, SCEAf was found to increase the viability of cells irradiatged by UVB $50mJ/cm^2$. To examine the anti-aging effects of SCEAf on HaCaT cells irradiated with UVB $50mJ/cm^2$, the expression of MMP-1 and -3 was analyzed by Western blotting and reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction. The results showed that MMP-1 and -3 proteins and mRNA levels were downregulated in a concentration-dependent manner in response to SCEAf. These results suggest that SCEAf can prevent aging and alleviate aging symptoms by inhibiting collagenase activity in skin keratinocytes damaged by UVB. Therefore, S. chinensis seeds may have the potential for use as functional ingredients with anti-aging effects in the cosmetic and food industries.