• Title/Summary/Keyword: Anti-aesthetics

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A Study on Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 Anti Couture 경향 연구)

  • Byun, Young-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.7
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    • pp.1098-1108
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    • 2009
  • This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

A Study on Modernism and Postmodernism depicted on the 20th Century of Fashion-Focused on Anti-Aesthetics and Open Fashion- (20세기 패션에 나타난 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘에 대한 연구(II)-반미학(Anti-Aesthetics), 열린 패션(Open-Fashion)을 중심으로-)

  • 김민자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.369-392
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    • 1998
  • In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

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A Study on Modernism and Postmodernism depicted on the 20th Century of Fashion(I) -Focused on Anti-Aesthetics and Open Fashion- (20세기 패션에 나타난 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘에 대한 연구(I) -반미학(Anti-Aesthetics), 열린 패션(Open-Fashion)을 중심으로-)

  • 김민자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.103-118
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to describe the central argument of postmodern theory ; pro-vide a central concept about postmodernism for fashion ; identify the signficance of open fashion in the 20th century. Postmodern is used to refer to a body of social theory, a style of aesthetic expression, and to various social practics and economic conditions. In this paper, postmodern theory is interpreted as an anti-aesthetics propesed by Derrida, Lyotard, Baudrillard, and Foster. The key principles and consepts of postmodern the-ory reflect and restate assumptions of nihilism influenced by the works of Nietzsche, being synonymous with the phrase philosophy of difference. The death of art, the end of progress, the will to the sublime, and the principle of pure difference support postmodern ideas, which could be the framework to interprete fashion phenomenon in postmodern condition.

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Anti-decoration Culture in Contenaporary Japanese Fashion (현대 일본 패션에 내재한 반꾸밈 미학)

  • Chae Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.8
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    • pp.129-146
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    • 2004
  • The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

A Study on the Anti-aesthetic Characteristics of Fashion Show Make-up - based on expressions of shape - (패션쇼 메이크업의 반미학적 특성 연구 - 형태 표현을 중심으로 -)

  • Byun, Young-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.2 no.1 s.1
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    • pp.65-74
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends and characteristics of the anti-aesthetic shapes have been expressed in Fashion Show Make-up from 1995 to 2003 and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through various formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. Anti-aesthetics means the beginning of criticism that destroy the system of modernism and the anti-aesthetic shapes in Fashion Show Make-up have been distorted, deformed, destroyed through asymmetrical arrangement or abnormal transformation or extreme reduction or omission and so on. It means that is to enlarge the range of expressions through a new interpretation. The anti-aesthetic characteristics in Fashion Show Make-up can be summarized as Avant-garde, Satire, De-construction, Poverty, inhumanity and most of shapes show experimental techniques in unlimited method. The differences at the turning point in 21C is to increase the experimental attempts such as informal and collage and graphic Make-up and so forth.

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A Study on the Cognition of Speculative Aesthetics in the Architectural Space (건축 공간의 사변미학적 인식에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yong-Jae
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.51-58
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is to present the cognition of speculative aesthetics in the architectural space. Architectural space as the subject of the aesthetical study has been ignored such a long period though it should be centered of the whole architectural theory. Even it has not been dealt with independently but just only as a part of aesthetic or artistic field. Also it is also true that academic approach to the architectural space as per the aesthetic recognition has not been done so satisfactorily. The transcendental subjectivity as the aesthetic cognitive viewpoint of the architectural space means speculative aesthetics and the understands the essential meaning of the function and composition The conclusions of this study are as follows : The formalistic cognitive concepts including organic functional space between the whole and the part and anti-cubic synchronous space are included in the architecture of the speculative cognition, and finally the contextual cognitive concepts including the restoring analogical space of the in-depth constituent factors and associated centripetal spaces.

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Criticism on Anti-Kitsch Theory (반키치론 비판)

  • Kim, Joo-hyoun
    • Journal of Korean Philosophical Society
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    • v.123
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    • pp.87-110
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    • 2012
  • The kitsch was emerged from the people's cultural desire in the conditions of the various duplicating technology, the capital economy system, and the civil revolution in the western modern mass society. But it is underestimated constantly because of the conspicious consumption and the aesthetic inadequacy. Even though some kitsches are elevated to the 'kitsch arts' in the historical description of the modern arts, still the most of kitsches are remained as 'just kitsches' and excluded from the aesthetic research according to the double standard. In this essay, I research for whether anti-kitsch theory is convincing theoretically and practically. Anti-kitsch theory criticizes the kitsch on the basis of the modernist aesthetics, in which the 'fine art' provokes the aesthetic pleasure in the disinterested contemplation. But kitsch purposes for the sensual gratification and the sentimentality. So the anti-kitish theorists conclude that the kitsch is the bad taste. In critically analyzing the argumentation of Greenberg's. Kaplan's and $C{\tilde{a}}linescu^{\prime}s$, I refute the privileged prejudice of the ideal critic. They don't justify the criteria of the classification of 'art'/ 'kitsch'. They supplement the economical and the political grounds for the evaluative theory of the kitsch. But the argumentation of the kitsch is consumed conspicuously and results in the unlettered masses is not sufficient. People produce and enjoy the kitsches in the various ways. People envelope the genres, styles and media of the kitsches and they try to suggest the new horizon of the popular aesthetics. So anti-kitsch theories cannot be accepted because they adhere to the elitism and formalism. The exclusion of the kitsch is the derogation for people's taste. Also they didn't reflect the contemporary cultural practice and the aesthetic needs in the system of post-art. The alternative aesthetics of the kitsch is the topic of my next essay.

The Research of the development of oriental cosmetics (한방화장품의 개발현황)

  • Park, Chang-Eun;Lim, Hee-Sun;Lee, Eun-Mi
    • Korean Journal of Korean Medical Institute of Dermatology and Aesthetics
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.198-228
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    • 2005
  • Oriental cosmetics make the skin radiant by supplement and circulate qihyul(氣血). Oriental cosmetics aim at the radiant skin based on inner health. It accords the new trend of 21th century, well-being and naturalism. Recently a lot of new oriental cosmetics have been developed and enjoyed great popularity. The research of oriental cosmetics elucidated the active compounds having whitening effect and wrinkle cure effect. And the anti-acne and anti-atopy cosmetics have been researched. The development of oriental cosmetics should be based on oriental medical theory.

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A Study on the Relationship of Post-Modern Design and Medieval Aesthetics - Focus on the Historicity of the Hybrid Aesthetics - (포스트모던 디자인과 중세 미학의 관계 연구 - 혼성 미학의 역사성을 중심으로 -)

  • 김은지;이정욱
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • no.39
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    • pp.3-11
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    • 2003
  • The attempt to find the origin of Post-modern aesthetics from the Middle Ages is easy to perceive the thinking system of contemporary design. The Middle Ages showed that things and God's relation were symbolized all things were connected with analogical ideas as mysticism(alchemy, gnosticism), and God's world was represented with the metaphor. While the hybrid style of Post-modern architecture expressed that the rationalism was opposed to Ideology, partly, the idea of irrational with mysterious, also unscientific with analogical discourse . And the Symbolism of Post-Modern Design is means of popular Communication. Exactly, the common feature of ideology with pre-rationalism and anti-rationalism are against the dominated ideology in present. In conclusion, the relation of significancy effect In Chaos and In composition can be considered inspirational source historically.

Decoration Culture resident in Contemporary Japanese Fashion (현대 일본패션에 내재한 꾸밈 미학)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.3
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    • pp.113-127
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.