• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.237-249
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• 1997

Anak No. 3. the largest tomb that has ever been unearthed in Korea bears a significant meaning in the study of tomb and other re-lated subjects because it represents a specific era in history. The clothing on murals of Anak No 3. among other things provides a great deal of materials for the study on the history of clothing. We have discussed the male clothing on the murals dividing it into various categories such as official Kwan Mo, Po, Yu, Go, Dae Shin, etc. The clothing displayed a strong Chinese influence but at the same time also contained some elements of the Koguryo era. This fact shows the combination of the two cultures. There are two theories over whose tomb Anak No. 3 is "King's tomb" theory and "Dong Su" theory. Based on the result of examination of the tomb through the clothing "Dong Su" theory is considere to logical. The clothing on the murals can be regarded as Korean even if the tomb is that of a Chinese because that person is a part of the history of Koguryo.art of the history of Koguryo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.95-111
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to analyze the costumes of the master in Yuantaizi(원대자) tumulus murals and to examine the relation to the costumes of Koguryo(고구려). The Master appeared in Yuantaizi Tumulus Murals wear Wuguan(무관), Pingshangze(평상장) and Pao(포) These costumes were used as chaofu(조복) by Han race(한족) at that time. It is believed that Yuantaizi tumulus belongs to a tomb of Qian Yan(전연). So we can conclude that Qian Yan accepted costume systems of Han race. And similar costumes appear in Tumulus Murals of Koguryo built around Pyungyang(평양) and Anak(안악) in 4∼5 century. Especially the master's costumes of Anak Tomb No.3(안악3호분) are nearly the same as Yuantaizi's. Maybe it is closely related to the fact that the master of Anak Tomb No.3 is Dongsu (동수) who defected from Qian Yan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.541-549
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• 2007

Goguryo is the ancient dynasty which established the system of ancient state earlier than Baekje and Sila, and was a strong political and military power. Unlike the rock carving works of prehistoric times, mural paintings composed of line and color tones in tombs are characterized more by its social aspect and symbolism as a serious form of art than other cultural heritage of Goguryo. In response to that, this study analyzed the dress and ornaments of women found in Anak No. 3 ancient tomb, Susan-ri ancient tomb, Ssangyeongchong, which are the ancient tombs in Pyeongyang from 4th century to 5th century, have relatively more ancient tombs than any other places and preserved the mural paintings well, by using the plate, slide, literature and data related to relics in order to figure out the characteristics of women's dress and ornament in Goguryo, and the lifestyle and social aspect of Goguryo.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.6-20
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• 2022

The restoration of cultural heritage materials is an important research theme. This study improved the existing cultural heritage restoration method and attempted to establish a restoration system for cultural heritage data based on historical documents and visual materials. Recognizing the limitations of existing studies, this paper attempted to restore cultural heritage data through interdisciplinary research. In addition, 3D restoration was carried out after restoration in 2D form based on literature documents rather than existing visual sources. The object of restoration that was selected was "Jeol," which represents the power of the king of Koguryo. Koguryo's Jeol is a type of flag. Jeol appears in the mural in Anak Tomb No. 3. Rather than using only photographic materials of murals, the restoration was carried out through cross-validation of literature data and materials on archaeological art history. This is important in that the restoration carried out in this study is an accurate restoration with a historical understanding based on the literature of the relevant cultural heritage. In this study, a restoration process based on historical records was established. A 3D restoration process was performed by adding and applying visual materials after the object was first shaped based on the literature data. Restoration based on literature and visual materials was carried out based on interdisciplinary research. Therefore, this study aims to build a digital restoration system for cultural heritages and to contribute to spreading the 3D digital restoration research of cultural heritages that can be applied to various platforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.