• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.237-249
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• 1997

Anak No. 3. the largest tomb that has ever been unearthed in Korea bears a significant meaning in the study of tomb and other re-lated subjects because it represents a specific era in history. The clothing on murals of Anak No 3. among other things provides a great deal of materials for the study on the history of clothing. We have discussed the male clothing on the murals dividing it into various categories such as official Kwan Mo, Po, Yu, Go, Dae Shin, etc. The clothing displayed a strong Chinese influence but at the same time also contained some elements of the Koguryo era. This fact shows the combination of the two cultures. There are two theories over whose tomb Anak No. 3 is "King's tomb" theory and "Dong Su" theory. Based on the result of examination of the tomb through the clothing "Dong Su" theory is considere to logical. The clothing on the murals can be regarded as Korean even if the tomb is that of a Chinese because that person is a part of the history of Koguryo.art of the history of Koguryo.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.95-111
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to analyze the costumes of the master in Yuantaizi(원대자) tumulus murals and to examine the relation to the costumes of Koguryo(고구려). The Master appeared in Yuantaizi Tumulus Murals wear Wuguan(무관), Pingshangze(평상장) and Pao(포) These costumes were used as chaofu(조복) by Han race(한족) at that time. It is believed that Yuantaizi tumulus belongs to a tomb of Qian Yan(전연). So we can conclude that Qian Yan accepted costume systems of Han race. And similar costumes appear in Tumulus Murals of Koguryo built around Pyungyang(평양) and Anak(안악) in 4∼5 century. Especially the master's costumes of Anak Tomb No.3(안악3호분) are nearly the same as Yuantaizi's. Maybe it is closely related to the fact that the master of Anak Tomb No.3 is Dongsu (동수) who defected from Qian Yan.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.541-549
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• 2007

Goguryo is the ancient dynasty which established the system of ancient state earlier than Baekje and Sila, and was a strong political and military power. Unlike the rock carving works of prehistoric times, mural paintings composed of line and color tones in tombs are characterized more by its social aspect and symbolism as a serious form of art than other cultural heritage of Goguryo. In response to that, this study analyzed the dress and ornaments of women found in Anak No. 3 ancient tomb, Susan-ri ancient tomb, Ssangyeongchong, which are the ancient tombs in Pyeongyang from 4th century to 5th century, have relatively more ancient tombs than any other places and preserved the mural paintings well, by using the plate, slide, literature and data related to relics in order to figure out the characteristics of women's dress and ornament in Goguryo, and the lifestyle and social aspect of Goguryo.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.6-20
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• 2022

고구려 벽화고분에 나타난 도상 자료인 절(節)에 대한 3D 디지털 복원을 시도하였다. 기존 연구는 그림 자료를 기반으로 하여 표면적인 디지털 복원을 진행하였는데, 근본적으로 문화유산에 대한 역사·문화적 이해가 부족하였다. 이러한 문제를 극복하려고 학제 간 연구를 시도하였다. 연구 대상인 절은 제왕의 권력을 상징하는 위세품이다. 절은 고구려 시대 깃발의 일종으로서, 세계유산인 안악 3호분에 의장기로 나타나고 있다. 동북아지역에서 고대 시기 절의 원형을 가장 잘 유지하고 있어 복원할만한 가치가 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌자료와 고고미술 관련 자료를 교차 검증하여 절에 대한 문화원형을 복원하였다. 문헌자료를 바탕으로 절에 대한 형태, 색깔 등을 추출하고 이를 다른 그림 자료를 통해 교차 검토하였다. 2D로 복원된 자료는 다양하게 활용하기가 어렵다는 한계를 가지고 있으므로 이를 그래픽자료인 3D로 디지털 복원하였다. 3D 자료는 동영상을 비롯하여 4차 산업혁명 시대에 부응하여 다양한 플랫폼에 적용하여 활용할 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 복원 과정을 통해 절이라는 도상 자료에 대한 문화재 가치를 심층적으로 인식하고 보다 구체적인 활용방안까지도 얻을 수 있게 되었다. 복원된 결과물은 3D 형태의 문화콘텐츠이다. 이는 우리 문화유산에 대한 문화 향유권 증진과 그 우수성을 대내외에 홍보할 수 있는 원천 자료로 활용할 수 있다. 후속 연구를 통해 차후 고구려 벽화무덤에 나타나는 도상 자료에 대한 디지털 복원 체계를 구축하고, 문화유산 3D 디지털 복원방식 확산에 기여하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.