• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.66-74
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• 2003

This study is to improve the worst lightfastness of a natural dye. To modify the fiber surface, low temperature oxygen plasma was carried out on silk fabric. The result is followed below after the examination of surface shape, dyeability, color change, UV absorbent influence and lightfastness. 1. When electric discharge outputs are 60W, 80W and 100w, and processing times are 10minutes, 20minutes and 40minutes, the etching effect of surface increased as electric discharge outputs and processing times increased. 2. When examined UV absorbent for 5hours, 10hours, 20hours, 40hours and 80hours, the value changes of E are 1.47, 2.51, 2.91, 3.71, 4.51 and 5.31 in case of Al pre-mordanting/ prasma 80W, 20min./ UVabsorbent 5% (100:1), 2.31, 2.47, 3.84, 3.90, 3.61 and 4.42 in case of Al pre-mordanting/prasma 80W, 20min.1 UV absorbent 5% (o.w.f.). The lightfastness decreased when UV absorbent increased. 3. Dyeability of the samples pre-treated with five different methods was in the following order: plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W/Al pre-mordanting > Al pre-mordanting > plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W > Al after-mordanting. non mordanting Plasma treatment had superior effect on dyeability. 4. When UV absorbent was applied in fabric, the sample under higher electric discharge out puts showed more effective in improving lightfastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.5 s.90
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• pp.22-29
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and antibacterial activity on wool fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum dyeing conditions of wool fabrics were dyeing concentration 2.0%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method was preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one was preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal were mordanting concentration of 1%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Wool fabrics dyed with cochineal showed a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Cu and Sn mordanting. The light fastness and perspiration fastness of wool fabric treated with cochineal were improved by mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 1994

In order to study the effect of mordanting on silk fabrics treated with tannin, those fabrics were treated with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe, Sn by pre and post mordanting. It was studied about color change, weighting effect, dgree of photodegradation by pre and post mordanting. The results are as fallows ; 1. On the addition of mordants into mimosa and tannic acid solution, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the former was slightly blue-shifted, on the other hand, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the latter was obviously Red-shifted. 2. In case of Cu, Cr, Pre mordanting, weighting effect were appeared. Weighting effect of silk fabrics treated with Tannic acid increased higher than mimosa by mordanting. 3. In color change, Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid generally changed to red direction and fabrics treated with tannic acid changed to yellow direction by pre and post mordanting. 4. In the photodegradation, the degree of photodegradation on mordanted fabrics increased. Its degree was slack in Cu, Cr, Post mordanting. On the other hand, Al, Fe, Sn were greate. Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid got inhibiting effect on photodegradation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.702-708
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2020

The objective was to study the efficiency of Houttuynia cordata extract colorants as eco-friendly and functional dye for wool fabrics. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated. Also, antimicrobial activity and deodorization performance were evaluated. The Houttuynia cordata colorants showed good affinity to wool fabrics and produced YR Munsell color. The optimum condition of dyeing was 2.0% of colorants concentration(o.w.b.) at 100℃ for 60 minutes under pH 5.3. Regardless of the mordant type and mordanting method, mordants improved dye uptake and the increase in dye uptake by Fe mordant was higher than that of Al mordant. Al post-mordanting and Fe mordanting changed the color of dyed fabrics with Y Munsell color. The colorfastness of un-mordanted and Al post-mordanted fabrics were excellent above grade 4. Bacteria reduction rate(Staphylococcus aureus) of wool fabrics dyed with Houttuynia cordata colorants was excellent at 98.2%. Also, the deodorization was good at 81%. The results show Houttuynia cordata colorants can be used as a functional natural dye for wool fabrics.