• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.123-138
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• 2013

This paper studied the apparel product attributes that women in the new elderly generation require in formal wears and in casual wears. The purpose of this study was to provide the design guideline when considering the changing and diverse buying patterns of the new elderly female consumers as opposed to the traditional elderly generation. We employed a qualitative study methodology of one-on-one in-depth interview with open coding. Between August 10 and October 3 of 2012, we interviewed sixteen female consumers of age 60 or above residing in the metropolitan area who considered themselves as young-minded. Our findings were as follows: The consumer-required attributes that the new elderly women wanted to present have five dimensions of symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. The main focus of the apparel product attributes that the new elderly women wanted was the dimension of symbolism in formal wears and the dimensions of usefulness and maintenance in casual wears. The new elderly females were the emerging group of consumers of diversified clothing products who emphasized overall balance and wore appropriately for occasions. Apparel products for the new elderly females should incorporate the design attributes that they want as well as the overall balance among individual wears.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.699-709
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer shopping orientation toward foreign brands in the context of clothing involvement, ethnocentrism, country-of-origin effects and demograpic variables. Prior to this paper, shopping orientation was studied in connection with ethnocentrism and country-of-origin effects. The questionnaire was distributed to 300 female consumers over twenty years old living in Pusan area and finally 213 data serfs were used for statistical analysis. By factor analysis, 6 clothing involvement factors were identified; fashion interest, symbolism, pleasure interest, inclination to harmony, aesthetic expression and perceived risk. A result of canonical correlation analysis about shopping orientation factors and clothing involvement factors is as follows. Two shopping orientation factors (follow to foreign brands and country-of-orion consciousness) positively correlate with three clothing involvement factors (fashion interest, symbolism and pleasure interest) , and two shopping orientation factors (preference to domestics and country-of-orion consciousness) positively correlate with author clohting involvement factor (percived risk). Anocova procedure revealed that five shopping orientation factors were related to clothing involvement factors, groups according to ethnocentric disposition, country-of-origin effects and demograpics respectively, even though there are some differences. Based on the conclusions, marketing strategies were developed.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.81-89
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• 2011

속화(俗畵 또는 민화(民畵)) 속의 도입요소를 대상으로 식물의 상징성을 추적한 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 우리 민족의 토속성 짙은 그림이자 상징적 의미를 담고 있는 '속화(俗畵)'라는 용어는 고려시대 이규보(1268~1241)의 '동국이상국집'에서 발견할 수 있고, 그리고 조선시대 초기 '속 동문선'과 강희맹(1424~1483)의 '사숙재집', 조선시대 후기의 '일성록(1786)', 유한준(1732~1811)의 '자저(自著)', 이규경(1788~?)의 '오주연문장전산고(五洲衍文長箋散稿)' 등에서 다양하게 추적할 수 있다. 특히, 이규경의 '오주연문장전산고' 인사편 서화(書畵)의 제병족속화변증설에 의하면 "민간에서 속화라고 불렀다"라는 기록이 발견된다. 2. 시대사적으로 한국의 속화는 농경문화의 자연관을 원초적으로 반영한 선사시대를 거쳐, 우주관을 반영하고 영혼불멸의 사상을 채색화 형태로 표현한 삼국시대, 추상적인 도형과 초자연적인 무늬를 공간 속에 상징화시켜 종교적으로 표현한 고려시대, 그리고 자연관, 심미적 가치, 상징성 등이 복합적으로 작용되어 대중화되고 한국 고유의 정체성으로 자리매김한 조선시대 등 시계열적 변화과정을 추적할 수 있다. 3. 한국의 속화 1,009점을 대상으로 분석한 소재는 식물요소 35종, 동물요소 37종, 자연요소 6종, 기타요소 5종등 총 83종이 출현하고 있다. 4. 속화에 표현된 식물 요소의 미학적 분석에 따른 형태미의 경우 모란도는 음양오행의 원초적 세계관을, 매화도는 역동적인 운치와 생태적인 조화원리를, 구도미의 경우 책가도는 복합 다시점 구도이면서도 강한 주목성을, 병화도는 역원근법에 의한 색의 강한 대비를, 독서여가도는 직선과 사선을 이용하여 자연과 인공요소의 질서정연한 균제미를 담백하게 표현하고 있다. 한편 색채미의 경우 오방색(동(東), 서(西), 남(南), 북(北), 중앙(中央)) 또는 오채색(적(赤), 청(靑), 황(黃), 백(白), 흑색(黑色))의 경우 주술적 또는 종교적으로 활용하거나 자연법칙과의 상관관계를 상징적으로 대입시키고 있다. 5. 한국 속화에 등장하는 각 요소들의 도입방식은 단순한 자연계 형태 모방을 뛰어 넘어 우주 내에 존재하는 본질의 의경을 통해 회화적 예술성을 바탕으로 자연관과 접목된 '상징성'으로 승화시켰다. 즉, 한국의 속화에서 추적할 수 있는 동 식물의 '상징성'은 종교적, 사상적, 생태적, 철학적 측면이 복합적으로 작용되어 자유 분망하면서도 독특한 표현으로 과학적 인식체계가 아닌 상징적 인식체계로, 현재 속에 과거와 미래가 공존하는 우리 민족의 집단적 문화 정체성으로 나타났다. 따라서 한국의 속화(또는 민화)는 우리 민족의 문화적 정체성이라 할 수 있으며, 우리 민족의 생활문화 속에 자연스럽게 배어든 자연관이자 토속성 짙은 의미경관요소로 해석할 수 있는 것이다. 그러나 우리 민족의 생활문화 속에 뿌리 깊게 배어 있었던 속화는 시대적 변천과정을 거쳐 그 의미와 감정이 현격히 퇴색되었다. 오늘날 주거생활이 아파트문화로 전이되고 가치관의 혼돈이 심화되는 시대적 상황 속에서 속화가 갖는 미학적, 상징적 가치는 정신적 풍요를 건전하게 지켜주는 상징 자산으로 전승되어 우리의 정체성으로 자리매김해야 하는 당위성을 갖는다고 하겠다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.297-306
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• 2004

Mehndi, becoming a kind of body fashion in western advanced countries nowadays, is a exquisite, classical fashion form sublimated to traditional faith, medicine and designing art. As one of the cultural arts, especially transmitted by women, a individual tradition of the way how to do the mehndi and the design has been handed down from one culture to another over a thousand of years and it is extensively using in many area, all around world today. Mehndi was used as preparing for special events or celebrations in India, Africa, Central Asia in order to pray for happiness, good luck and calm hart 5000 years ago. Especially, it is concerned with romantic love or a wedding and takes important part of a traditional wedding reception and bride adorning in the culture of Hindu or Islam. In addition to adorning skin, mehndi has various symbols, meaning, function, that is, as a speechless language, in several cultures, it has common meaning such as attraction, protection, celebration. The design of mehndi has been in harmony with the figure, colors, skin types of the dress or the ornament. According to the region, religion, design, mehndi is divided into the design of India and Morocco mostly. Indian design mainly shows flowers and paisley pattern, people widely recognize this design to celebrate and adorn bride in wedding ceremony, still apply mehndi the present time. Moroccan mehndi design, representing North Africa, characterized a bold geometrical figure which stands for belief in living under the protection from supernatural power. Through the understanding of these various meaning, function, symbolism of the design, adorning their body, the current general public use mehndi as not only aesthetic means but also another self expression.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.105-116
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• 2005

본 연구는 전통 문화상품으로 잠재력을 지니고 있는 씨름의 이미지 구축에 관한 복식 연구로서, 씨름복의 체계화 및 시각화에 관한 방안제시, 그리고 씨름복 디자인 개발에 관한 기초 기반연구를 목적으로 하고 있다. 따라서 기초적인 부분으로는 씨름복의 역사성에 대한 탐구로 세계 씨름과 우리나라의 씨름을 비교 고찰해 보았으며, 씨름복에 관한 변천사에 관하여 탐구해 보았다. 또한 실질적인 부분으로는 현행 씨름 및 씨름복에 관한 기준에 대하여 그 내용을 숙지하고, 디자인 기반 연구로서 씨름복이 갖는 미학적인 부분을 크게 네 가지 항목으로 분류하여 첫째 전통성과 독창성, 둘째 유온성과 적합성, 셋째 상징성과 장식성, 넷째 다양성과 통일성으로 그 내용을 체계화하였다. 결론적으로 씨름복 디자인 기획에 있어 가장 중요한 부분은 상기에서 제시한 미학적 부분을 토대로 일관된 컨셉을 시각화하는데 있다. 이번 연구는 씨름복에 관한 미학적 부분의 이론 연구로서, 디자인 컨셉 설정 및 디자인 전개의 지침을 제시하는데 의의를 지니며, 향후 추진될 전통 문화 복식 디자인의 기획에 관한 기반연구였다는 점에 그 의미를 둔다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.504-518
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• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.148-162
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the concept of convergence which is one of the trendy issues as a new digital paradigm of Integrative thinking in 21st century, to analyze the plastic feature and internal meaning of convergence expressed in fashion design, and to grasp the cultural symbolism through this aesthetic analysis. Because there have been considerable discussions on convergence, centering on industrial product area associated with media, I will proceed my study on the basis of them. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. This study will be helpful to find a direction of future fashion design trend. Convergence in digital stage can be defined as a phenomenon which different functions of product move towards one direction for greater efficiency, and not only as a technical integration between functions of product, but also an extension of area. Convergence can be classified by their use as (1) convergence for convenient daily life (2) convergence with intelligent scientific technology (3) convergence for entertainment on the basis of sensual experience. The plasticity of convergence designs feature as a open dynamic structure which potentiate transformation and their internal meaning can be inquired such qualities as integrative multiplicity, efficiency, mobility, intelligence. Specially convergence fashion design has protection qualify resulting from wearability on body. Ultimately convergence fashion design as a future digital paradigm can be thought as both eco-friendly design and human-centered design from positive technology-based viewpoint, because it is easy to transform according to our environment, convenient to reserve, and efficient to enhance spatial usibility.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권3_4호
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• pp.433-443
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the evaluative criteria for leather garment and investigate differences among the evaluative criteria of consumer groups, which were categorized by consumers' lifestyle. A questionnaire was developed and administered 475 males and females from twenties to forties living in Seoul and Daejon during August in 2001. Data were analysed by frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test and one way-ANOVA. The results were as follows: 1. The leather garment evaluative criteria were found to have four different dimensions: a) aesthetic, b) sensory properties and quality, c) practicality, and d) symbolism. Especially, the sensory properties and quality including the weight of the leather garment, odor, and hand feel were identified as distinctive evaluative criteria for leather garment compared with general garments. 2. The leather garment evaluative criteria were used differently according to consumers' lifestyle. Consumers with a passive lifestyle tended to consider economic efficiency and practicality. The confident and active consumers with interests in their appearances tended to buy leather garment for symbolic and aesthetic reasons. 3. There were significant differences in evaluative criteria for the leather garment among demographics-gender, age, and marital status.