Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.19
no.2
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pp.297-316
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1995
The system and symbolizing ideologic meanings of the metallic Kwon in period of the Three-Kingdoms were comsidered by comparing to their cultural path and structal styles throughout the tree and the deer worship ideology. The results of this study are as followings; Firstly, the beginning of the Korean, mostly northern style was originated from metal tools of the Bronze age in BC 6c-7c. The maJ;lufature of the metallic adornment brought the pr-evailing use of metallic objects of craftwork after the supply of ironmongery. Secondly, the cultmal characteristics of the metallic Kwan in the kor-ean Peninsula were influenced f-rom the northern chinese tribes, Momg Go, Hung No, and Sien-pi who were transmitted from the scythian of the southern Russia having a prefenence for gold. Thir-dly, the metallic Kwon of the Kogmgo and the Baekje era was ideologically based on the ar-t of Buddism of the pattern of blazing flame, the carved pattern of flower- of herb, and the honey. sukle which were tramsmitted to china thr-ough the silk noad. Fourthly, the metallic K wam of the silla era consisted of the tree and the antler types in closely nelated to the tree and the deer ideology which were based on the background of shamanism. It should be raid that the metallic Kwan of the silla esa are connected to the type of nor-them ancient K wan. Lasthy, the metallic Kwan-Mo of the Kaja esa was mosthy original type of flower of herb even if kome of these ar-e similiar to the tree adornment type of silla. This type of flower of herb in based on the scythian type with a statue im silveer founded at Alexandnopol in the southern russia.
This study is to examine the manufacturing technique based on scientific investigation and analysis on Steel-Plated Jewel Beetle's Adornment gilt-bronze openwork remains excavated from No. 100 site at Hwango-dong Gyeongju. As a result of the investigation on the manufacturing revealed that riveting was adopted to connect gilt-bronze openwork plates and steel plates, followed by mercury amalgam plating method and carving of the patterns by means of the dotted line engraving technique. There were some traces on the surface of Jewel Beetle wings that show the use of pins for fixing, which seems to be the result of recycling or processing. The sectional analysis shows the high possibilities that varnishing with lacquer was adopted for wing adhesion, and it was confirmed that varnishing with lacquer was used on the strap pendant plate to prevent corrosion.
The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.
This study investigated the techniques applied in the manufacturing of the horse trappings with jewel beetle adornment excavated from Geumgwanchong Tomb, with a focus on the use of jewel beetle wings. It is revealed that the wings of jewel beetles were stripped of their upper skeletal parts and applied as ornamentation under the gilt-bronze openwork plate, and no additional process was applied to improve adhesion. The horse trappings from Geumgwanchong Tomb include saddles, stirrups, horse strap pendants, and bamboo mudguards, but most of the components except the stirrups are failing or lost, making it difficult to identify the manufacturing techniques. The techniques used to affix the jewel beetle wings vary depending on the support materials. Small chisels were used to fix the jewel beetle wings to the stirrups and saddle made of wooden supports. In the case of the bamboo mudguards and metal artifacts, the wings were fixed with lacquer and then combined with the gilt-bronze openwork plate using pressure.
The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.
In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.
Architectural utility in Richard Neutra's early twentieth century modern school design was paramount in progressively shaping salience of academic institutions, in part to move beyond neoclassical traditions in style based design. The intention being to address school and community through modern architectural solutions. Expanding on Neutra's practice, the planning and design of new public schools in Los Angeles, are advocating the integration of institutional and public spaces. This research will document through qualitative analysis of institutional design within transitioning neighborhoods, a utilitarian approach that has become foundational for positive urban change. The focus of this research will reflect upon contemporary schools designed by DalyGenik Architecture, Coop Himmelblau and Michael Maltzen Architecture. Comparing with Neutra's early modernist approach, the selected case studies will address material and spatial applications having redefined functional relationships of interior space, architectural envelope and an interconnected public realm. A dynamic peripheral condition in new school design has emerged with the elimination of decorative adornment, clarifying utilitarian intentions of institutional service to and the rejuvenation of public realms and community spaces.
Costumes of Song Dynasty developed after the patterns of the Tang. The rise of idealist philosophy in the Song Dynasty had a great impact on the life of the people, Under the influence of this ideology, people's views on aesthetics changed considerable. In architecture, for example, white washed walls and black tiles came into fashion. balustrades, pillars and roof beams were left unpainted so as to retain the true colour of he wood. In painting, also, simplicity and delicacy were valued, and the preferred medium was ink or light colours. The desire for simplicity was even more evidently reflected in clothing and related adornment, as public opinion was against excessive display in dress. Consequently, the clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Compared with the dress of Tang, the dress of the Song Dynasty had other variations. Therefore women's dress of Song was also reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, simplicity and naturaliness.
When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.
Proceedings of the Korea Information Processing Society Conference
/
2017.11a
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pp.462-463
/
2017
Although the mirror has been used for a long time primarily for personal purposes, such as adornment by reflecting feature of mirror, it can also be used to expand from its legacy function to safety and lots of unpredictable applications. However, the mirror can be used as an information or investigation base, it is subject to human beings in the private region, objects and private purpose in the public and industrial fields. This paper suggests the wide usage of mirror equipped with smart technology, considering current Korea domestic regulation by law.
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